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I have a samsung hlp 4663w, recently (the week after thanksgiving) the color wheel was squealing, so i replaced it also replaced lamp at the same time cause the picture was getting weak, all was working great untill yesterday when the tv picture goes out, the tv is still on because you can hear sound, and on the power button none of the three lights are on and when it gets to this state, the power button or remote doesnt do anything, you physically have to unplug tv from wall socket. after a few minutes if you plug tv back in the tv comes on like normal then after about 5 minutes the picture goes out again. when tv is in this state i took a volt meter and hit both poles of the lamp and it has no power, but the board under the lamp (which i think is the balast) has power going to it. in my eyes i think i need to replace the ballast, but i do not want to spend money to find out its not the ballast. is there a way i can be certain, without having to replace components 1 at a time
Re: I have a samsung hlp 4663w, recently (the week after...
SHOULD HAVE REPLACED THE BALLAST WITH THE LAMP AT THE SAME TIME, YOU MIGHT GET LUCKY AND ONLY HAVE TO REPLACE THE BALLAST, DON;T TURN IT ON ANY MORE OR YOU WILL WASTE THE LAMP
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If the capacitor on the ballast was puffed up or blown up you have to replace the lamp, ballast & SMPS at the same time. But if the ballast is not trying to fire the lamp it sounds like the color wheel is not coming up to speed. If this is the case, the set will not turn on.
First. Lamps can look ok in the center and still be bad. Install a new lamp since I do not know when you replaced the lamp or if at all. Turn on the set and at the same time look through the Lamp Door vent slots to see if the lamp Illuminates. If so your lamp is ok and the Color Wheel is bad.
If you have already replaced the lamp and ballast, to no avail, then it is time to take it in to a certified repair center. Most will charge a nominal diagnostic fee. My 61" did the same thing and it turned out to be the Light Engine (of which the DMD Board is a part).
If the problem were the color wheel, the lamp would come on for a bit until the color wheel sync couldn't be achieved and then it would turn off. The all-3-flashing-lights problem is the lamp. Here is a page from the service manual on the 3 blinking lights problem.
The Light Engine controls the ballast via a separate signal than the 320 Volts. The voltage reading means that the Power Board is working properly.
Check your old lamp. Do you remember what its condition was like. If the tube inside the lamp was shattered into a thousand pieces that is a sign of ballast problems and that is where you should start to look. After all the ballast is what runs your lamp.
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