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Re: Plastic tubing from pneumatic on/off switch to pump...
These tubes are just pushed on by hand. They are nothing special. If you need to replace them, just use whatever works. Push the ends firmly onto the small stems on the motor and the button. Good luck
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Booster pump output low/defective, rinse nozzles clogged, wash tank level sensor soiled, moisture in sensor tube, hose kinked or not water tight
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booster tank level sensor defective/disconnected, water inlet strainer is soiled, booster tank vent is clogged, anti siphen flap
This is per their tech manual.
I have found in some cases that the impeller on the fill motor is plastic and can become disconnected from the motor shaft.
"PE" error is related to the Harmonic pressure switch. Since the
part is electronic, I would suspect a clog at the air dome at the
bottom of the tub located at the rear of the machine. The pressure
switch is located at the top. Unplug the washer from power, you will need a small piece of 1/4" plastic tubing or copper tubing. Locate
the pressure switch, disconnect the 1/4" tube from PS. Attach the
PS hose to your plastic or copper extension tube. Try and blow thu.
You should hear bubbling of air. Draw alittle water in by sucking and
blowing several times. This should clear any thing lodged in the lower
air dome. Before you reattach the hose to pressure switch, first trim
1/4 '" of hose off, for a tight fit. But before attaching hose, plug in washer and Press POWER, Press SPIN SPEED, Press START
to activate pump to remove all the water left in the tub. Next lower the
Pump's Trap Door at the bottom left corner of the cabinet. Using a kitchen trash bag, Extend the black rubber hose into trash bag and remove the plug. Turn off the machine when all water has been
evacuated.. Unplug washer and reattach the hose to the pressure
switch and try again.. IF error returns replace Pressure Switch..
Pneumatic pump is a true revolutionary invention which can never be substituted with any other thing as there are many benefits and advantages of this great invention. To know more click here : Home FDJohnson
There are many reasons why the door may be jammed shut -
1. The water hasn't pumped out properly and the washing machine has a pneumatic door safety lock (a rubber hose connected to the door interlock and connected to a pressure chamber bottle on the tub - water forces air up this tube and locks the door) 2. Washing machine won't empty water 3. The water has pumped out properly, but a blockage of gunge inside the pressure chamber bottle is trapping the air that's operating the door lock (if a pneumatic lock is fitted - not many have these days due to cost cutting) 4. Door interlock jammed 5. Door catch, handle, or mechanism broken Try running Just the rinse spin cycle again,
the pressure fill switch has become disengaged....remove screws holding control panel and raise it up,you will see a plastic tube has become disconnected and must be reattached to a component directly under load size selector switch,usually a rust or orangeish color,sometimes white
Find the plug for the pump and plug it in ( tub full of water), if the pump works,the problem is in the contol box or switch. if the pump/motor has a plastic tube coming out of a black box, and the pump still does not work when plugged in, it is most likely the air switch connected to that plastic tube on the pump. the switch is avaliable online and not to hard to replace if you are mechanically inclined.
Amana ALW480DAW seems to be not completely draining. When I start a new load water in basket becomes dingy and smells. Washer smells when it has not been used for a couple of days. We have checked the outflow and inflow drain tubes found no problems. It seems to spin and agitate normally, it drains to a point and leaves water in it, not visible in the basket. When we blow on the outflow tube when it is done draining there is still water present, we can hear it bubble.
either the level control switch has become blocked or faulty or the drain pump has become stuck.
disconnect from the mains and gain access to the rear look for a circular unit with two or three electrical connections and a plastic tube. this is the level control.follow the tube to its start and you will find a plastic connection that goes into the wash drum, remove the plastic tube from the switch end and blow into it. if there is no restistance then the system is OK at the drum end. next reconnect the tube to the switch and remove the opposite end, very gently blow down the tube and you should hear the switch operate. Test wether the switch is working by putting a meter across the switch and blow into the tube. if all of this is OK then the drain pump is at fault. locate the drain pump. it is connected to the outlet tube, try turning by hand. if it does not rotate smoothly remove the clips holding the pump body together and clear the obstruction.
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