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Posted on Jan 25, 2008
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Kitchenaid builtin microwave oven # Kemc307KSS

The microwave just stopped working, it says door , when you press start and enter the time. just won't work anymore. never had any problems with it . just repeatedly says door now. so we had the door sensors replaced and that didn't do anything, still the same problem. it won't work.

also occasionally the the oven will say that the thermometer is plugged in and it's not. don't have a clue where the thermometer is. so it sounds like something is wrong with the controls somewhere ?

help please because it's a in wall unit and presently sitting in the center of the kitchen out of the wall for the past month because the appliance repair man never came back and said he had to talk with a tech manufacturer but that was weeks ago.

  • 6 more comments 
  • c_w_wally Jan 25, 2008

    the micro switches were replaced and it still doesn't work. it still says DOOR when you press start.


    I said that in the first letter above that we replaced those switches

    so got any other suggestions ?

  • Lost7 Mar 07, 2008

    Microwave does not turn on and the light inside is out when I open the door.
    It just displays"DOOR" message on LED screen when I try to turn the microwave on

  • Anonymous Mar 23, 2008

    my KitchenAid KMS model 1850SS-O won't work because it say "Door", can you help me?

  • Anonymous May 02, 2008

    I just installed this model oven today. Have not even used it once, and there is the message "door" on the microwave??? Did anyone ever figure out how to fix this?

  • JGoldhill May 16, 2008

    I have the same problem too.

  • margaret247 Jun 25, 2008

    We have just the built-in microwave alone (KMBS1454SS) The microwave says DOOR once in awhile but the door is not open. We just got the microwave two weeks ago. Still works. Are we looking at a future problem? If you open and shut it, it stops saying DOOR but it is a hassle- says it 3 out of 10 times. Thanks for your consideration.

  • Anonymous Oct 06, 2008

    KitchenAid KEMC308KBL04. Long story... but I tripped one of the interlocks while the door was open and now it only indicates "Door." and the interior light doesn't illuminate. Based on the prior responses, the 15A fuse is blown. Can you point me to a manual that describes where this fuse is and how to replace it?

    Thanks,
    steve


  • Lost7 May 11, 2010

    I Have a KEMC307KSS combo microwave with the same problem.
    It displays"DOOR" and won't come on. I replaced the inline
    20AMP fuse(it was bad) but the "DOOR" still comes on.

    Where is the location of the other 15AMP fuse and other stuff.

    Does anyone have a service manual for this model or close to it?

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  • Posted on Oct 12, 2008
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I'm posting this as a solution after I went through several different web sites to and trial & error to fix my "DOOR" error code problem.
The original question I submitted can be summarized: I need to replace the 15A interlock fuse. Can you point me to a manual that describes where this fuse is and how to replace it?

Here's the answer for the KitchenAid KEMC308K series.
1) The service manual is behind the control panel on the left hand side. For my built-in, I turned off the power and removed the oven from the cabinet, exposing the sheet metal shroud. Remove the top piece and there on the left hand side is the service manual.
2) The manual indicates the fuse is in the right rear of the microwave. This is correct, but it is actually accessible through the right side.

As long as I slogged though this, I thought some other people would like to know how to solve the "door" error problem. It could be caused by a faulty control panel, but before going there, the check the switches and fuse in the door interlock circuit. Check this link for a discussion: http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/switch.html

Repair steps:
Remove the rear sheet metal shroud and you see nothing but the back and side of the microwave. Remove the right sheet metal shroud and expose the right side of the microwave. This panel has a bunch of warnings, heed them. However, the are missing one: SHARP EDGES. Think about putting tape on the exposed sheet metal edges. Remove the panel and expose the "guts" of the microwave: Rectifier, wave guide, magnetron, capacitor, and such. The interlock fuse is next to the capacitor contacts. Safely discharge the capacitor (method described in numerous places via google search and the link http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/safety.html ).

After the capacitor is discharged, remove the fuse, verify it is blown using an ohm meter (ceramic fuse - you can't see inside). The fuse is actually (despite what the tech manual says) a 20A 250V fuse. Available at radio shack in a pack of 4 for $2.99. Install the new fuse.

As long as you have this much done, may as well ensure that the microswitches still work. Remove the contacts from the microswitch. There are 2 close to each other. From the 3rd contact to these, one should open when the other should be closed. Ensure that this is true and that when the switch is depressed, the state reverses (the contact that was open is now close & connects to the common). Do this for both door-closed sensing microswitches and replace the wiring to the microswitches. Replace all the microwave side panels and the sheet metal shroud. Turn on the breaker and hopefully, as it was on mine, the "DOOR" error message is gone and it starts up normally.

Oh, when the power comes on the unit runs a self test, lots of blinking lights followed by a power-failure error code when the power comes on. I think it was pf .d=30. Hit cancel and it goes away.

So, this is a pain to do b/c there are about 40 sheet metal screws to deal with and one has to be careful discharging the cap. Pulling the oven out of the cabinet was the hardest part. I build a table at the same height and just slid the entire unit right onto my "work table." If I had to do it again, I'd have the entire thing done in under 30 minutes.

Hope this helps someone else!
sb

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My KEMC308KBL micro/oven combo was brand new, just installed and never used, and I was getting the "door" message when I tried to use the microwave, and the light inside no longer worked. It turns out that there is a brown wire coming from the 20 amp fuse that stretches across a metal frame piece under the shroud on the top of the microwave. The edge of the metal cut through the wire insulation and blew the fuse. There was a nice burn mark on the metal. And the fuse is the big cartridge 20 amp fuse on the top of the microwave, not the little tiny glass one, which I guess is the 15 amp. Before you go replacing door swithches, etc., check the wiring on top for shorts, and check the fuses first, especially the 20 amp. And before you do any of that, make sure you have turned off all the power!

  • Weaver Deli
    Weaver Deli Nov 02, 2018

    .....also, for anyone who hasn't learned by now, that very annoying beeping with the meat probe symbol showing or asking to insert meat probe - on mine it is simply caused by high humidity in the home. If you don't have central air, and it's a hot and humid day, the only thing you can do is shut the breaker off to stop the beeping, and wait a while, turn it back on and hit cancel to clear the board. If you still get the meat probe symbol, you can turn the oven on if you need to, and the probe symbol will clear.

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I had the VERY SAME PROBLEM. Replace the computer (OUCH!) taking care when disconnecting the keypad from the computer.

The Kitchen aid product is very "Pretty" but I've had a lot of service issues. I WOULDN'T buy another one (they're out of business for good reason), but - like you I'm stuck with it being a built in.

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  • Posted on Jan 25, 2008
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Ok the meat probe error is the meat probe is wired backwards yor microwave is a blown fuse in line with the primary interlock switch send me an email at [email protected] can help the primary interlock switch is a fancy way of saying one of the three micro switches in the door that the hooks on the door trip when its closed

  • Anonymous Jan 25, 2008

    you don't replace the switches the service bulletin tells you that wont do any good there is a fuse in one of the switches circuits the bulletin says that fuse is blown that's what you need to replace either the 20amp fuse the 15amp fuse or the cavity tod are the culprit now did you replace any of the fuses now a repairmans first thoughts are going to go for the door switches but with out that service bulliten he wont think to check those fuses or the cavity tod its in the little box marked open circert if door is displayed see it on the diagram i sent you

  • Anonymous Jan 29, 2008

    dont forget to rate me its how we keep the site going

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