My dryer was not getting hot...I bought the replacement heating part and had them installed.....now as soon as I plug it in...it smells like something is burning and the dryer gets hot, without turning the power on?

Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK:

Thermal Fuse
If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement.

Igniter and Gas Valve Coils
TEST with a multi meter:The igniteris an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas.At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ?

Occasionally, theGas safety valve and the electric coilsthat control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, theigniterglows, but gas never enters the heating chamberor does not stayconsistant.
Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it.But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit.

Air Flow and Heat
The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all.

Warning
There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QP1Z4OWjTuA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pKLDrzXlzHM

GOD IS GOOD !!!!AND THAT IS WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

quit buying parts ur motor is shot and u should be or soon be smelling a wireish burning smell.

Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK:

Thermal Fuse
If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement.

Igniter and Gas Valve Coils
TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ?

Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant.
Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit.

Air Flow and Heat
The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all.

Warning
There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

GOD IS GOOD !!!! AND THAT IS WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

DRYER OVERHEATING:

Heating Element
A defective heating element can make a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.

Other Causes and Conditions
Air Flow Problem
Dryers need good ventilation to work properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean all of the vent tubing thoroughly.

Cycling Thermostat
Although not common, a defective cycling thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced.

Felt Seal
Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too hot. This is not common.

Blower Wheel
A defective blower wheel will not spin properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3m5NZvY9V5Q




Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK:

Thermal Fuse
If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement.

Igniter and Gas Valve Coils
TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ?

Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant.
Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit.

Air Flow and Heat
The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all.

Warning
There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

your duct is clogged or the limit snapstat is not working. turn dryer on and go outside to the duct vent , their should be a minimum temp of 10 degrees, and a maximum 15 degrees outside. also sometimes just cleaning the lint from inside the dryer, can cause this smell for no more than 5 minutes. thanks karl

Check your vent it may be stopped up this will cause the top to get overly hot and the bearing to squeak

Use or borrow a volt ohm meter and check for a grounded hot wire. You may also be exceeding the start up load on the 20 amp breaker. Test this theory (after you make sure that there are no ground faults) by starting the dryer in a "air fluff" mode without heat. If the dryer starts in the "no heat mode", switch the heat on - if you blow the breaker you know that the 20 amp breaker cannot handle it. Before you do any of the above - check your dryer manual for the service requirments. If you don't have the manual go to the mfg. web site and download it.

Any time you perform work inside a dryer, lint can get kicked around and settle on components. It is common to have a slight burning smell for a day or so. However, your dryer getting too hot to the touch concerns me. Improper air flow is the number one cause of dryer overheating problems. You may have cleaned the lint out of the interior of your dryer, but did you check the air blower and vent duct lines? In addition, was the heating elements actually bad? Or, did you assume it was bad, because your dryer wasn't drying properly? The following link can explain:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Pay particular attention to the paragraph that discusses proper ventilation. I would recommend you remove the vent hose from the back of the dryer and attempt to dry another load. If the dryer dries more efficiently and the top panel does not get scorching hot to the touch, then you have a vent clog somewhere EXTERNAL to the dryer. If the dryer air flow exiting the dryer is weak and the dryer still gets too hot to the touch, you have a clog INSIDE the dryer.

Follow these steps, first and see what you find. If you verify your ventilation is clear and not kinked or clogged anywhere, then you might assume you have a component malfunction. I would hope to try to save you from purchasing parts you may not need. I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you require additional assistance.

PS Make sure you are using semi-rigid (metal type) vent ducting. It is crush resistant, heat resistant, does not kink easily, and resists rodents. It is what most manufacturers recommend. If you haven't replaced the dryer vent in a while, this may be a good time.

Have you painted or stained in your house or apartment recently? The smell gets everywhere, dryer, stove, heating unit. I recently primed with Kilz and the clothes from my dryer smelled burned. When I called for service, it was the first question the service person asked and said they made a lot of useless trips only to find nothing wrong with the appliance. That was my case. I had to rewash clothes and let the dryer run with towels for a while

Check coils on burner assembly. Often when a dryer heats initially and then stops heating a coils has gone bad.