Question about Samsung HL-R6167W 61" HDTV
My DLP won't turn on. 3 lights on front blinking indicating the lamp is out but I have replaced it and it still won't turn on. Someone suggested it could be the ballast and I replaced it as well. Still 3 flashing lights come on. Don't think the color wheel is out because it is not making a grinding sound. When I turn the TV on it makes its normal beeping sound and I hear a click like the lamp is going to light up but it will not. It wil do this 3 times and just start flashing all 3 lights at me again. I have to unplug to get it to stop. HELP!!!!!
If your having the "3 light" problem it could be an indication of a bad lamp however if there is a buzzing or a grinding sound it could be one of two moving parts. The color wheel or the cooling fan. I would go the cheaper route and replace the color wheel first. The thing is the lamp will not turn on if there is a problem with one of the other two parts. TRUST me ... I've replaced all three parts just to find out it was only the cooling fan. (at least I have another lamp handy when the new one goes out). The motor on the cooling fan is too small for such a big fan so I would definately try it first. It's a big problem with the DLP tvs. Hope this helps.
Posted on Sep 27, 2008
This is most likely your color wheel if it does not get up to the correct speed the set will shut down. You do not have to hear anything grind that is just the dead give away. Its about a 90 percent chance that this is your problem and would be the next place I go. If you order the color wheel make sure you get the correct one there are two for this set. You need to look if you have an L6 chassis or L3 this will let you know which one you need. If you call samsung they will need to know the lamp code on the left side.
Posted on Feb 08, 2008
Correction on the previous post ... change the cooling fan first. Not the color wheel. You'll save alot of money.
Posted on Sep 27, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
First, A common mistake made is when you insert the orange ribbon cable from the Color Wheel into the DMD bd. To correctly insert the Ribbon Cable you need to look at both sides. You will see a shiny silver side and a dull black/orange side. You must insert the shiny silver side AWAY from the Color Wheel or towards the rear of the set. Now for the Ballast. When you power up the tv,Do you hear a short Buzzing sound? If you do that means that the Ballast is trying to fire up the Lamp and is working. Next, do you hear the Color Wheel spin up? If you do not then you have installed the Color Wheel incorrectly and you need to repeat the installation while making sure that you hold the rubber gasket in perfect place or else it won,t work. Chances are the gasket is in the wrong position and is binding the Glass Wheel. The Ballast is on the right side of the engine and on top of the Lamp Housing. You will see two RED High Voltage wires coming out of one end. Don't worry, there is no stored voltage in the ballast so you won't get a shock providing you have unplugged the tv from the outlet. That is the first step before you change any parts any way. Listen for the correct start sequence. With the rear backing off and the Safety Interlock Switch is being held in the up position, turn on the set. First sound you hear is a clicking which is the power on relay engageing. Then you will hear the fans turn on and then the Color Wheel spin up. Once the Color Wheel spins up and comes to full RPM then the Exciter on the Ballast will Buzz for less than half a second and then the Lamp should light up. Now if you have installed the correct Lamp and correctly installed the Color Wheel and you either are holding up the Interlock Switch or have reinstalled the rear cover and tightened all of the screws you should have a working tv.
Posted on Jul 16, 2009
SOURCE: hlp5063w 50'' DLP samsung
Sounds like you've already gotten into the repairs. The three major things that fail on DLP are the bulb, the ballast and the color wheel. If your bulb is new and you aren't getting anywhere, replace the ballast, if that is still a no go, then move on to the color wheel. If replacing those three doesn't fix the problem, you will have to whip out the multimeter and start looking for problems on the PSB. You can get a ballast on ebay for about $100. Start there. The color wheel should be very freely moving. If something is grinding and hindering the movement at all, you need to replace it. That grinding may not seem like much but it is likely enough to keep the wheel from spinning at proper speeds. The sensor then kicks in and tells the brain that there is a problem and the brain keeps the ballast from firing the lamp.
Posted on Mar 11, 2009
Was the replacement lamp the same part number as the original as there are different arc gaps for different lamps and the wrong arc gap will cause the lamp not to light. Since the ballast is powering up the lamp should light if the baalast is matched to the correct arc gap of the lamp being used.
Posted on Nov 27, 2009
I found R3 on the original board to be open, along with reading an open on CR1, D5 and D6. All the other transistors and the transformer check out. The only thing I have to do now is find out the specs of the diodes. The replacement board also had CR1, D5 and D6 open (R3 was OK). There had been some threads on various locations where remanufactured boards had bad components (the transistors were changed but not some of the other components).
Posted on Jan 18, 2010
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