EM-15 keyboard broken keys F1 and C5- Little plastic lug that keeps keys down has broken. Need replacement parts. Can put them in myself.

Yamaha's have little rubber "contact strips" that run under the keys. These strips have little rubber buttons on them, exactly like your tv remote. When you push the key down, it pushed the rubber button down and make an electrical contact. These buttons eventually fail and separate where the bottom of the button meets the strip. You have to replace the strip (different sizes, depending on where on the keyboard it is) but they aren't cheap. You can find them here http://syntaur.com/yamaha_psr.html but sometimes you can find someone selling them on ebay cheaper. If you only need a single strip, or maybe two, it's probabaly worth it. More strips than that and you may find it cheaper to buy someone's broken keyboard on ebay and take the strips out, especially if it's broken for a different reason, like won't power up.

Go to Behringer parts or a service center. Try this site:

http://www.behringer.com/EN/Support/Distributors.aspx

You would need to call casio for such parts or go to a part store which by googling it you can find the parts for this unit.

I just fixed my CDP 100 which had a similar problem - dropped and two keys not working up one end.
1. Lay keyboard upside down on soft surface. Under keyboard is plastic cover held on by 17 screws. Remove all these and lift cover away. The metal key ends are all revealed.
2. Locate the disloged keys. Carefully press them back into position - they will "click" into place. Make sure the corresponding key on the keyboard isn't stuck in an "up" position - you may have to remove the metal key part and replace it again while making sure the key is correctly seated.
3. Replace cover and screws.

Roland FP is a nice keyboard but has a known problem on cracking key weights. There is a counter weight under each key to push the key upward. There are two sizes of weight beams, longer one for white keys and shorter one for black keys. Roland did not make the original weight beams strong enough to last. They will crack and eventually break. When it happens, the key will stay down. Fortunately, they can be easily replaced.

Roland FP-8 has 4 black screws at the bottom on each side end. Remove the screws, flip the ends up and expose the interior. Near the hinge of the problematic key, carefully ply open the hinge tabs and remove the key from the hinge. You will find a weight beam under the key. Remove and inspect the weight. There should be a metal wrapped in a plastic beam. If the metal part is missing, find the missing part and replace with a new beam. You can order weight beams from Roland. It costs about $10 each plus shipping. Put everything back in the reversed order.

Most keyboards of that scale are not especially fragile. You may have to remove the back (lots of screws) and maybe a bezel that is across the top of the keys to get full access to the keys. The good thing is you have lots of working models --- all the other keys. So carefully consider the differences. It may be that one or more plastic parts have broken, particularly if it fell and landed with pressure on that key.

Most of the keyboard manufacturers have parts departments that can supply just the part of the keyboard you need if you can specify exactly what you want.

Unfortunately, I only have schematics for PSS-560 and PSS-570. If I remember correctly,with the parts side facing up, there should be a parts orientation printed on the circuit board. It will look like 2 black bars side by side with one of the black bars thicker than the other. If you got an exact replacement with the correct pin out the metal piece on the part that the black piece is mounted to with the 3 pins facing down towards the parts side of the circuit board should line put with the black bar lines on the circuit board. I hope this makes sense. Please get back to me. I had one of these keyboards laying around in my parts bin but stripped it because all the keys were broken and as they come in one strip asnd have to be ordered specially, I didn't bother keeping it. I may still have the circuit board somewhere.

I just fixed this exact problem today. It took me a while to figure out how to get to the key bed, but it's not impossible. I'll try to retrace my steps and describe them as well as I can:

- Turn the keyboard upside down on a table with the joystick hanging off the table. To make my directions easier to follow, the joystick should be on your left. When I say "front", I mean towards the keys, "back" towards the knobs.
- Have 3 cups for the different types of screws you'll find. A magnet-tipped screwdriver is *essential*, as some of the screws are hard to get to, and you don't want to lose them in there.
- Start by removing the bottom plate.
- Remove the right side panel -- there should be three bigger screws towards the front, and two smaller ones way down towards the back.
- Here's the tricky part... unplug all connectors from the center board. You might want to take some detailed pictures before you do that because there are some empty sockets on the board. It's actually easy to figure out what goes where because most connectors are of different sizes.
- Unplug the two red connectors that go to the left side of the key bed, and the one that goes to the small board on the key bed, but NOT the small white one. That's the aftertouch cable and it doesn't need to be disconnected.
- Unscrew the center board from the horizontal rail in the middle of the case. There should be 4 screws and a cable tie is connected to each one. There are 3 black screws in the back around the digital output slots (there wasn't a digital card on the Trinity I worked on.) -- unscrew those and remove the board VERY carefully not to pull any wires along the way.
- There are two silver plastic grounding slips -- one on the far left, one on the far right. I know you have to remove the left one, I'm not sure about the right one, but remove it just in case.
- Unscrew the long aluminum piece at the very front, the one that is under the keys when the keyboard is right side up.
- Unplug the small connector off the floppy drive. You can leave the ribbon cable connected. The are 4 screws (I think) that hold the floppy drive in place. Unscrew those and remove the drive.
- There should be 1 more screw holding the key bed in place, and it's right by one of the floppy drive screws. Get that one out and pull the key bed upward using the metal piece in the middle -- it may be stuck to the horizontal rail, even though it's unscrewed. Pry it up gently with a screwdriver if you have to. The key bed should come out. If it doesn't, check what might be keeping it in place. Don't ever force anything out of a keyboard.

OK, that's part one. Part two is fairly easy...

- Set the key bed on a table. Remove the long plastic strip at the top.
- To remove a black key, first you have to remove the two surrounding white keys. Grab the bottom part of the key (where you play it) and push towards the top (where there's a square hole). Pay very close attention to how the key is removed, because reinstalling it is the same way, just reversed (obviously). There's a flat spring underneath the key, don't worry if it pops out. It's pretty self-explanatory how to put it back.
- Remove the black key in the same manner. Most likely, the little tab that hooks the key onto the key bed is chipped or broken. In any case, you will need a new key -- unless, of course, it was just the spring that popped out.

Follow the instructions in reverse order to put it all back together. I typed this by memory, so I may have skipped a step or two. Taking this keyboard apart wasn't as easy as I expected, but not as hard as it looked. It just takes patience and being careful.

I hope this helps!

This is a common problem with Yamaha keyboards. The problem is caused by worn-out rubber contacts in the keyboard assembly. In my old Clavinova CLP-500, there was one long rubber contact strip under the keys with two parallel strips of semiconductor material. The Clavinova circuitry determines key velocity by measuring the timing between when the key hits the first and second strips of semiconductor material. The harder you play a key, the less time it takes the key to hit the second semiconductor strip after hitting the first.
After years of playing the keyboard, the keys eventually cause tears in the semiconductor material and this messes up the timing measurement for key velocity. The only solution is to take the keyboard apart and replace the rubber contact strip with a new one.
I got rid of my CLP-500 four or five years ago and got a new CLP-170. The CLP-170 is now having exactly the same problem that the CLP-500 had. Yamaha has re-designed the rubber contacts in the CLP-170 so that there are now eight individual contact strips instead of one long one. The problem is essentially the same, though. You have to take the keyboard apart and replace the worn out rubber contacts.
Here are the part numbers for the rubber contacts that need to be replaced in the CLP-170: V8286600 Rubber Contact, 12 keys, D-C#   Qty. 6 V8286800 Rubber Contact, 11 keys, A-C#   Qty. 1 V8286700 Rubber Contact, 5 keys, D-C   Qty. 1
I suggest you also get a copy of the CLP-170 service manual, part number 001677. It has descriptions of all the steps necessary to take the thing apart and put it back together again. You'll also need a "rod" (which is just a long dowel), part number TX000670. Before you take the circuit boards off the keyboard assembly, you have to insert the dowel between the keys and the frame to keep the keys from falling back and getting in your way. A 5-foot long 1/4-inch dowel will probably work. (I haven't yet taken apart my CLP-170, and I don't have Yamaha's "rod," so I'm not sure if 1/4 inch is the right size or not. I'll report back here if it's not.)
Good luck, Howard