After about 2 hrs the picture goes wavy starting on the right side and soon the whole picture. When I put a fan blowing up through the unit it drops the temp. down and TV goes back to normal. How do i fix without installing fan system?

the air ducts could still have ice in them,remove the bottom kick panel,you should find a tech sheet either on the kick panel or taped in the cabinet area down there and it will tell you how to manually put your fridge into defrost, you don't want to work on it while it's running or you'll make it worse,you'll know it's in defrost when the compressor shuts down and the fan in the freezer stops blowing if you can't find it shut down the fridge or unplug it again,remove the food from the freezer,if you're handy remove the back inside wall of the freezer and with a hair dryer melt out any ice up in the vents and blow the air from the hair dryer up above the fan motor and in the corners, ,you'll see water dripping where the ice is,heat it up until no more water drips down,hit one side for a few minutes and then the other side for like 5 minutes at a time so you don't damage anything from heating it up to much,or if you have another fridge leave it unplugged for a couple of days.if you can't remove the wall blow the air into the air slots in the back wall panel,in the right and left side corners and then in the middle,have a light or flash light,you should be able to see water dripping down,keep blowing the air in until no more water is dripping,might take you like 30 to 45 minutes to do this,then turn it back on and see if you can feel cold air blowing into the fridge section,if not shut it down and heat it up again,if you see water dripping there's still ice in there,all that happens is the evaporator coil in the freezer gets cold,the evap fan blows the cold air up nto the fridge section and the air returns to the freezer through the air ducts,when the door was open warm and cold air meet and forms ice in the air ducts,if the fan is working and depending on your model and next time you write send the model number you could have a damper it could of got damaged but it sounds like all you have is frozen air ducts

On a side by side unit, the freezer actually cools the refrigerator side of the unit by the use of a "damper" door or switch. Check this between both doors for any ice blockage or damage and go from there. You might need to contact a professional to diagnose the entire unit if you don't "see" any issues.

An abrupt cycle of power can cause a motor to run backwards. If you turn the power off again and wait 10 seconds or so (enough for blade to stop spinning) it should run the right way. Put the capacitor back the other way and try again.

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open the doors and feel the middle strip.if that's hot check the condenser fan to make sure it's running and clean out the coil in the back.pull out the machine,remove the bottom panel,on the right side you'll see the coil,with a shop vac vac off the coil and then put it on blow and blow out the coil,that's the only way to clean this kind of coil and make sure the fan is blowing back there.let me know what you find,also send the full model number,open the fridge door,look at the right wall near the ceiling and you should see the model number.

It seems that your unit has some sort of Thernmal problem or a problem that is shutting down the Power Supply section to the Video side of things.
You need to take the unit to a reputable service centre/man and ask for a firm "Quote" for the work to be done.

Unit is getting too hot. Put a fan blowing air up through unit and will stay normal

That does not sound normal at all, I have a Goodman Heatpump and the Fan on the Evaporator (outside unit) should run as soon as it starts up!
The only delay you should be seeing is when the unit starts, the fan in the AHU starts 5 seconds after and runs for about 1.5 minutes after shutdown.

The problem is not on the power supply. It is either on the P-Logic bd or Main bd.

I solved a similar problem by putting a small battery operated fan blowing directly into the IN vent (on the right side of unit). This completely takes care of the issue.

Now, I wish I knew what the real problem was so I could fix it...

this is caused by a bad convergence module, and there are probably some dried out electrolytic caps in the circuit as well. i have one in the shop right now that came in with the same problem. if you have it serviced, make sure they replace all of the convergence modules (there are usually 2, but sometimes 3 of them), because if one went bad the other(s) is likely to go out soon as well.