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Are the 2 holes on top of the carburetor supposed to be empty or am i missing a part on a 9.8 tohatsu 4 stroke motor? or repair manual? pictre or diagram can check out?
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best place t go is youtube and if you cant find your watching any small motor video will help but you need to watch one of the same engine if yours is 2 stroke then watch a 2 stroke video and same as 4 stroke carbs are different hope this helps
had the same problem , remove carburetor , remove float bowl , remove
float , unscrew main jet and remove , under the main jet is another
brass part , tap the carb firmly down it will drop out, there are 12
holes down the sides of it , 6 each side , 4 of these holes are barely
visible and probably blocked clean with pin and blow out, this worked
for me.. ,
The best way to state my solution is to give you the instructions I made for just replacing the bad fuel lines on a 2-stroke trimmer. Your Ryobi should fit this bill. The small diameter line out of fuel tank (has filter in-tank on end) connects directly to the side of the carburetor that has the fuel pump....that is the cover without the hole in it. Other larger diameter fuel line out of tank connects to the longer nipple on the external purge/primer bulb. The bulb "pulls" fresh fuel from the fuel tank to the carb and then out of the carb to itself, where it then "pushes" any air/old fuel back into the fuel tank. The remaining larger diameter fuel line in this setup goes from the metering chamber (has cover with writing on it and a vent-hole) side of the carburetor to the smaller nipple on the purge/primer bulb. Again, on the primer bulb, the longer nipple has a line going directly from it to the tank. This is the return line. The shorter nipple on the bub has a line from it going to the metering chamber side of the carb. If the purge/primer bulb is on top of the carb...small line from carb body to small hole in tank with filter. Larger diameter line goes from the bulb on the fuel pump side of the carb to the larger hole in the fuel tank where sometimes the line is held in place with a nylon nipple connector that keeps the line from pulling out of the tank. Otherwise, the line should enter the tank for about 1/2" or so.
The primer is a simple pump that is supposed to pull fuel through the carburetor body into the primer bulb (if this is a 2-stroke engine). On a 4-stroke engine, it pulls fuel from the tank and injects it into the carburetor. Check the bulb carefully for any cracks or holes, and check the condition of all fuel lines. The fuel filter may be plugged also. Hope this helps!
I see that this machine has a 2 stroke engine. These directions work on the 2-stroke engines of Sears trimmers. I've never seen a diagram but many explanations are out there.
The small diameter line out of fuel tank (has fuel filter in-tank on end) connects directly to the side of the carburetor that has the fuel pump....that is the cover without the hole in it. Other larger diameter fuel line out of tank connects to the longer nipple on the external purge/primer bulb. The bulb "pulls" fresh fuel from the fuel tank to the carb and then out of the carb to itself, where it then pushes any air/old fuel back into the fuel tank. The remaining larger diameter fuel line in this setup goes from the metering chamber (has cover with writing on it and a vent-hole) side of the carburetor to the smaller nipple on the purge/primer bulb. Again, on the primer bulb, the longer nipple has a line going directly from it to the tank. The shorter nipple on the bub has a line from it going to the metering chamber side of the carburetor. If the purge/primer bulb is on top of the carb...small line from carb body to small hole in tank with filter. Larger diameter line goes from the bulb on the fuel pump side of the carb to the larger hole in the fuel tank where the line is held in place with a nylon nipple connector that keeps the line from pulling out of the tank.
A basic preset adjustment is CW to stops (lightly), then CCW each 1-1/2 turns. The engine should start and run, but will 4-stroke. Allow to warm up, open the throttle, and adjust H CW till the engine speeds up, but still 4-stroking. Final adjustment is when the engine will 4-stroke, but immediately 2-stroke when cutting. Release the throttle and adjust L CW so that the engine idles fairly well, but will allow the engine to 'follow the throttle'. The problem with late model saws is that the EPA has mandated tamper-resistant carburetor adjustment screws which have 'D' shaped heads. Only authorized service dealers are supposed to have this tool. It's possible to drill into the end of a 1/4" steel rod, saw off part of the hole on one side and weld a small plate over the cut to make the 'D'. The big problem with this is getting a screw out to take measurements! Also, the recess in the carburetor just barely allows the 1/4" rod. Hard to say if this helps any! You may be stuck with taking the saw to a dealer to get it adjusted. Good luck!
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