Tip & How-To about Refrigerators
While failed defrost controls is more normally the reason for poor refrigerator/freezer performance, we can not forget about the door gaskets as being a possible culprit.
First, visually inspect the gaskets for signs of severe deformation or torn areas which could prevent a good seal. If either is suspect, replace the gasket. Also make certain that magnetic gaskets in fact have the magnets.
Next, grab a dollar bill or sheet of printer paper torn to about the size of a dollar bill. Test the gasket on all doors all the way around by placing the bill or paper onto the frame with the door open. Then, close the door, and gently pull the bill or paper out from the closed door/gasket. You should feel some resistance to the pulling motion. Test all door gaskets, all the way around. Replace any gasket which allow the paper to easily pull out of the closed door, or, figure out if there is something preventing the gasket from sealing properly.
Door seal leakage allow not only warm air migration, but moisture migration into the refrigerator freezer section, putting undo load on the cooling and defrost sections to both cool the air and condense the moisture (which is seen as frost on the cooling coils.), and melt the created ice from the cooling coil..
If the icing is on the back wall in the freezer, the main reason for ice to form will be, if the defrost system is not working. There are 3 main parts to the defrost system:
Another reason will be if the evaporator fan motor quits. It will have the same affect as a no defrost condition.
If the icing is everywhere, side walls also, this is usually caused by moisture. This is from air leaking into the cabinet. It could be from the door not closing good, gaps in the door gasket or it could be leaking around the cabinet flange. For gaps in the door seal you can use a hair dryer to straighten it, just be careful not to get the gasket too hot. If the cabinet flange is leaking, some RTV will seal it.
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