When running load noise coming from black cylinder

id try a new capacitor (cheapest solution) , but sounds to me that your compressor is done for. id bet the evap coil is quite dirty , this is a usuall cause

signs of frost on your machine is an indicator that (1) there's not enough air flow over coils
and (2) there has occurred a leak in your system and some or all of the gas has escaped out to the atmosphere


number 1 usually causes number 2 due to increase in heat

unplug for 48 hrs then try it again if no joy then you'll need to replace it

Either the humidity sensor is defective or there is possibly a thermal etc protection device that is malfunctioning.

Place the dehumidifier feet on foam or rubber vibration absorbing pads.

Touch all sides of the cabinet with the compressor running to see if your touch will dampen the noise. Once the noisy area is identified check that the fasteners are all in place and tight. Sometimes loostening and retightening a number of fasterners around the noisy area will cure this problem.

The black cylinder is the compressor. It sounds like your unit is cycling the compressor for some reason. If the compressor starts, runs fine, and removes water when you set the humidity control to the driest setting the compressor is probably OK and the problem may be with the humidity control causing the dehumidifier to "short cycle" for some reason. You may need to change the humidity control or relocate the dehumidifier in your crawl space.
If the compressor attempts to start, and then sits quiet for 10 minutes, and then attempts to start again, you have a problem with the dehumidifier. There are a few things that can cause this problem:
Low refrigerant charge
Bad compressor capacitor
Bad compressor overload
Plugged capillary tube or broken expansion valve
are the common causes of this behavior. If you suspect one of these problems, call the factory service department at 1-800-533-7533 for help.

Good luck with your dehumidiifer.

I have the exact same problem. I've isolated it to the thermal fuse for the fan motor. This can be confirmed by jumping the black wire to the blue wire coming from the fan motor while the unit is running. Only problem I have is I haven't been able to locate the fuse yet.

This unit has had a lot of problems. It has come up in other forums. The fan motor is thermally protected. Could be the printed circuit board is bad. Check out this forum:

http://forum.doityourself.com/humidifiers-dehumidifiers/177549-kenmore-dehumidifier-fan-stopped.html

problem fixed with the fan motor not running.

heres how i did it for anyone who experiences the same problem

1.) open back of unit(6 screws and pop tabs)

2.) with back cover open youll have access to compressor and fan-locate the blower assembly and remove the nut on it i used a 3/8 wrench from dollartree and rotated the blower fan while turning-its plastic be careful and remember righty tighty lefty loosey)

3.) with fan assembly off youll see the motor with 2 phillips head screws-taking these screws out with a power screwdriver allows the bearing assembly closest to the fan assembly,shaft,armeture and motor assembly to come out leaving rear bearing assembly attached to chassis

4.) once the motor assembly is completely out gently rest it against the fan hole and cut the silver tape being careful to ONLY cut the silver tape and the first white tape strip.

5.) youll see 3 wires and some insulator sleeves covering them leave everything alone except the ORANGE wire this wire attaches to the thermal fuse than to the windings
CAREFULLY heat up your soldering iron and remove the orange to thermal fuse connection than carefully thermal fuse to windings its a bit of a pain but can be done with patience

6.) remove original thermal fuse noting EXACTLY where original is placed on windings-it will have a small tape strip on it. replace it with one of EXACT OR NEAR THERMAL RATINGS a good choice is radioshack 270-1322. this thermal fuse is ratyed 10 amps max. but remember thermal fuses go by degree of heat and not by amp rating unless the amperage is in excess to melt the thermal material inside-my original fuse was 2 amps and 130 degrees celcius new fuse was 129degrees but plus minus 2 degrees so its a good choice and costs under 2 dollars

7.) place a heatsink clip or needlenose pliers between thermal fuse and solder connections BEFORE YOU SOLDER IT IN PLACE this prevents your 700 degree f iron from melting the fuse(remember its thermal not amperage were talking about here)
solder orange to thermal fuse with plastic extension than flat end to winding wire exactly opposite of how removed

8.) tape fuse in ORIGINAL LOCATION AS OLD FUSE i used scotch tape,place the thermal white protector piece on orange to fuse wire and push everything back down in original places-there should be no contact with any other wires etc. it will cause a fire

9.) once fuse is in place push tape you cut earlier back on and put 2 or 3 small scotch tape pieces of good length to secure the innards, lube the rear bearing of motor using vasoline- a few dollups will do it do the same for front slide motor winding assembly holding it in place than replace armeture with front bearing attaches as they came out secure the 2 screws back in place, put fan blade assembly back on(its keyed) secure nut and reassemble back

if you did everything correctly it will work like new just remember this time CLEAN YOUR FILTER SCREEN REGULARILY lol its critical for proper fan cooling

that should do it:)

Lifeguard, there are generally no user accessible safety items in dehumidifiers. You are likely describing the start relay which is used to 'boost' the compressor on starting. Jumping it will not help you. It sounds like the compressor is defective. Economically, there is no justification for servicing these units unless they require refrigerant gas or if the fan motor has seized, something you can readily determine. If you don't hear the compressor hum when it should, there is no service procedure available for these sealed units.

use a jumper cord and go directly to the compressor to see if it will run. if it don't run, open up the motor box and see if there is a klixon overload inside. this should be normally closed. if it isn't replace it. the klixon is a thermal overload cutout. it usually trips because of high winding temperatures and protects the motor inside. the compressor is a hermetically sealed unit. no, or little freon will cause the motor to overheat.