Amp has proper wiring and voltage to it.will not come on and fuses are good

have you checked voltage and ground for blower motor? At the blower motor, red wire is voltage, black wire is ground. You can take two wire connector loose from blower motor, use both ends of testlight on connector wire terminals, Key on--hvac controls on--hi speed. If the lamp comes on, you have voltage and ground good enough for test lamp. If you have good voltage and ground for blower motor and the motor doesn't run, suspect the blower motor. If the lamp doesn't come on, your missing either voltage or ground? In stead of using wire connector ground, you could use chassis ground, clean metal spot, probe red wire, If lite doesn't come on, your missing voltage and you'll have to backtrack circuit. See the top right fuse, 40 amp fuse, that fuse is only for hi speed. Not only check the fuse, use a test light check fuse for voltage, hot all the time. If you follow that wire down, in diagram, you see it goes to switch side of relay, left side in diagram. When that relay is energized that short line moves to other terminal carries voltage for hi speed. The control side of relay, right side in diagram, needs voltage and ground in order to energize. If it doesn't energize, no voltage hi speed. Orange wire is voltage for control side, black wire is ground. I can only help with testing, good luck.

Did you check for voltage at the 50 amp fuse circuit. Even if the fuse is good if no voltage on the fuse circuit, the circuit is still dead. There is a light green wire that carries voltage from headlamp switch to dimmer, is that wire hot with headlamp switch on?

There are wiring diagrams for free, just about everywhere, if you don't have one. Autozone .com has free wiring diagrams on vehicle repair guides link. You have to register your vehicle, year--make--model, all that good stuff. It's free.

Check regulator ground by using an ohmmeter with one lead on a known good ground, such as the battery ground cable, and the other on the regulator base.
The connection where the alternator stator wires plug into the regulator could be corroded/dirty and need to be cleaned and sprayed with electrical contact cleaner and protected with dielectric grease because corroded wires going to the battery or alternator from the stator or the regulator will affect the ability of the charging system to properly charge a battery.

Motorcycle voltage regulator connections must be clean and tight for proper operation so it must be verified that both the AC (stator) connections and the DC (battery supply side) connectors are clean, fully inserted and locked in place with the regulator latches (they should also be coated with dielectric grease to keep them clean and corrosion free).

The motorcycle voltage regulator is a series regulator that is also a rectifier that changes stator supplied alternating current (AC) to direct current (DC) which the battery system requires. If the charging system does not keep the battery properly charged both with regards to Voltage (between 13 VDC minimum and 15.5 VDC maximum) and the current supply at a high enough amperage to meet the system lighting, ignition, TSM/TSSM, security and accessory requirements plus a minimum of 3.5 more amps (3.5 amps more than the foregoing system requirements) there are a number of tests that can be done to ascertain why.

As the voltage regulator must have a good, clean, tight (and otherwise secure) ground connection for proper operation a Voltage Regulator Ground Circuit Test can be accomplished by connecting an ohmmeter to a known good ground (like the battery negative post) and the case of the regulator. If there is continuity with little resistance the ground is GOOD and nothing more needs to be done BUT if there is NO continuity or there is more than minimal resistance the ground will need to be fixed so there is a low resistance continuity by either locating and fixing the poor ground or adding a new grounding wire from the regulator case to a know good ground.

A Voltage Regulator Power Circuit Test can be accomplished by turning OFF the Ignition, disconnecting the voltage regulator and with an ohmmeter set to the Rx1 setting, testing for continuity between the voltage regulator wire harness supply terminal and the main fuse terminal (with the fuse removed) and if there is continuity present then the wiring circuit here is GOOD but if there is NO continuity then you will need to either find the open and repair it or replace the whole wire running from the voltage regulator to the main fuse.

As there should be no short circuit in the power supply from the regulator to battery (main fuse) wiring OR in the regulator internal circuitry continuity from these both need to be checked again with an ohmmeter set to the Rx1 setting. If the regulator to main fuse wiring connector is not disconnected from the regulator you can connect an ohmmeter with one lead on the regulator supply wire terminal end at the main fuse (with the main fuse removed) and the other lead to a known good ground. If there is NO continuity then you know that both the supply wire and the regulator are okay (as there is no short to ground). BUT if there is continuity then either the regulator or wiring or both is/are shorted to ground. To determine where there is a short circuit (i.e. either the wiring or the regulator internal circuitry) you must disconnect the DC side of the wiring harness (the connector at the DC side of the regulator) from the regulator and test between either or both ends of the wire i.e. from the regulator wire harness.

AC Output Check
Disconnect the voltage regulator connector from the alternator stator wiring and then connect an AC voltmeter across both stator sockets of a two wire stator, or if a three wire stator across two of the three for example 1 & 3 and then later you will repeat the test between 2 & 3 and later between 1 & 2. THEN run the engine at as close as possible in the circumstances to 2000 RPM. The AC output should be approximately 32-40 VAC, approximately 16-20VAC per 1000 RPM. If you have done a stator static test and the stator has proven to be in good mechanical condition and the AC output is below specifications, the charging problem is going to be a faulty rotor. If you have not done a static stator check yet and the AC output is less than as set out above it may be that the stator is defective and the static stator check will need to be done. While the regulator has nothing whatsoever to do with the alternator output, if the alternator output is good the regulator might be defective in either rectification or in limiting the output to the battery to under 15 VDC. If AC output is low and the stator has passed the static stator check then it is likely that the permanent magnets in the alternator rotor are weak. A permanent magnet can lose its magnetic strength if it is dropped or shocked such as letting it snap into place when being installed or possibly by use of an impact wrench to remove the compensator fastener etc.

There is a red and white wire feeding the fuel pump relay from a 30 amp fuse. Both the shutdown relay and the fuel pump relay are grounded by the PCM, so if the fuel pump relay is grounded it should be "on" and providing a direct link from the pump to that fuse.
You should have battery voltage on that 30 amp wire before the relay and then on the dark green and black wire going to the pump.
If you don't have battery voltage coming from the 30 amp fuse, the problem could be before the fuse.
That 30 amp fuse is hot all the time, so it is powered by a fuseable link coming off the battery.

Model Year is always good to know, just to help determine age of the vehicle.

If this bike has sat all winter, you may need to clean connections at the fuse box or where they are exposed. The loss of a ground connection is just as bad as losing the + connection. It takes both to complete the circuit. Grease on clean exposed connections seals them somewhat.

Make sure you have a fully charged battery. Modern electronics require minimum voltage amounts or won't function.

You could also have a fuse blown, or a switch (Ignition) that isn't working properly. I would suggest that you test voltage from the Battery, through the fuses, any fusible links that may appear to still be good, but may have burned through inside of the wiring harness. Verifying your voltage all the way through the switch and to that wiring is really the only way to find this problem.

This would also involve testing any sensors that have input/output signals that can turn on/off, the module & fuel supply.

A nice digital multimeter will prevent burning anything out, but you should also consult the wiring diagram & service manual to make sure you don't hook up to anything extra-sensitive and cause it to malfunction. LED probes are usually safe for testing those.

If animals had access while in storage, you'll identify any broken or semi eaten wiring & repair during your inspection.
Good luck!

If the fuse blows , it has a short to ground on the B+ side of thwe circuit . Don't know where you live ,so don't know what shops there charge ! Your probably looking at a least a hour diagnostic time . There are videos on youtube showing how to find a short . You would need to look at a wiring diagram to see what all that fuse supply's B+ voltage too. Then isolate the different circuits till the fuse doesn't blow . But if you haven't done electrical diagnostics before ?

Make sure this high powered amp is not mounted directly to the chassis of the car. Mount it to a wooden board and you can screw board into the car. Because some very high powered amps can arc and damage itself.

Next make sure the tubular fuse in the hood is not bad it may look good but internally it got real hot and caused a bad solder connect in the fuse. You can test it with a meter. Measure one side then the other side if the 12 volt is going thru the fuse.

Next step is now you know your amp is getting 12 volts from the car battery but do you know if your amp turn on signal is turning on the amp itself. This is a easy test get a little wire and jump the 12 volt to the amp turn on wire if the amp comes on then you have found your problem. The amp turn on voltage is too weak were ever youve connected the signal. Normally you hook it up to the blue/white wire on the back of the radio first. If it doesnt have one hook up to the blue. Now on some very rare occassions the voltage drops when you put a load to it and is not enough to turn on your amp you can easily see this if the voltage across the blue wire goes below 12volts so hook it up to the red ignition wire so at least when you turn on your radio the red will send 12 volts to the amp to turn it on and will not drop in voltage. You see that wire has to be 12volts when it drops the amp will not turn on. Same with the battery Voltage you have to maintain 12 Volts or higher for the amp to operate.

Hi and welcome to FixYa,
Initially, suggested checks on the wires:

• black of igniter unit tied to ground;
• orange wire from igniter to ignition coil with pulsating voltage when starting;
• gray wire from igniter to ignition coil with pulsating voltage when starting;
• IGN + 12 on red/white wire to igniter and ignition coils from engine stop switch;
• IGN + 12 on red/white wire to engine stop switch coming from 10Amp ignition fuse;
• pulsating low voltage from pickup coil between the wires black/white, white/green & yellow/red.

Postback results of above voltage tests.
Good luck and thank you for asking FixYa. Happy Holidays.

Check for proper voltage to the unit , (generally 110VAC) check the transformer secondary for approx 24 volts. Verify the door switch is operating properly and that the door switch engages when the cover is put back on. if all of this proves good then check the wirtes going to the thermosta and the condenser

You need to use a multimeter to confirm that you have a good ground and sufficient voltage on the B+ and remote wires. I'll assume that you've checked the on-board fuses (if it has them).

With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.

If the voltage remains near or above 12v and the amp does nothing, the amp probably has a blown power supply.