Flooded bathroom from top of unit

They wear out especially if they are older. You did not say what make and model it is but if there is water coming out the bottom it is time for a new unit. The leak is still happening because even though there is not supply pressure, gravity is pulling the water out the break in the liner.

Sounds like an air lock. Do you see a pressure relief valve? If so, slowly open and listen for bleeding air. It would help if you would provide the manufacturer and model number of the unit.

Picture?

Make and model number?

Of those two access ports you see, one is for the anode. As for depth, most relief valves will reach. If the thread isn't long enough, you can purchase a long shank relief valve, or just buy a 3/4" brass or galvanized extension coupling.

check your water pressure and then make sure it is not to high or all the problems you have had were not the answer. it is a pressure /temperature valve not just . temp.

Add an extrol expansion tank to the piping. You can get one for about thirty dollars from the hardware store.

Without model number I can't tell you specifically where they are but, it is all controlled by a thermostat. If it's manual light, the gas control has the thermostat built in as part of it, and if water is getting too hot, even with temperature turned down, replace gas control. There is a temperature lever on top that moves from side to side to adjust temperature. If it's electronic ignition, the thermostat and ECO should be visible below pressure relief valve when you open the cover. On the electronic models, the thermostat disc must be up against the tank properly to do it's job. If it's tight against the tank, and water heater still overheating, replace thermostat. One other thing to check would be incoming water pressure. If on city water connection and pressure is too high, it will also cause pressure relief valve to open prematurely, but if water is obviously too hot, that probably will not be the cause. Please remember, if work is required on the propane system, it should only be performed by a certified technician. Just this week alone, I've repaired 3 RV's that could have caught fire or worse, because they tried to do it themselves. Don't endanger yourself, your loved ones, or your friends and neighbors, to save a 1/2hr, labor charge.

Hot water pressure relief valves serve two functions. The first is to remove high-pressure water from the hot water tank. The second function is to act as a high temperature valve to remove water that exceeds a predetermined point for the valve. Both of these relief settings are preset at the valve factory. Many pressure relief valves will come with a metal tag that identifies these release points. If you're attempting to remove the hot water heater pressure relief valve, pay careful attention to ensure that you replace with the correct valve.

Your hot water heater has a pressure relief valve safety mechanism. When pressure inside the water tank exceeds certain limitations, the valve opens up to allow the pressure to be released. A faulty pressure relief valve will not release excess pressure, which could cause extensive damage to your home. You should test the hot water heater pressure relief valve once every six months to ensure proper operation. If the pressure relief valve fails the test, replace the valve with a new one immediately

Locate the pressure relief valve on your hot water heater. The pressure relief valve has a lever handle on top with a drain pipe attached to it. The pressure relief valve is most often on the side of the water tank toward the top. Newer models of hot water heaters have the pressure relief valve on top of the water tank.

Inspect the area around the pressure relief valve for signs of leaking water. If there is leaking water near the relief valve connection, replace the relief valve. If no leaking is evident, proceed with testing the pressure valve.

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Examine the area below the pressure relief valve drain pipe. Most water heater closets either have a drain in the floor below the pipe or the pipe is inserted into another pipe to direct the water out of the home. If the end of your drain pipe is not in another pipe or there is no drain in the floor, place a bucket under the drain pipe to catch water when you test the pressure relief valve.

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Pull the lever handle on the top of the pressure relief valve up with your fingers. A working lever will lift up without difficulty.You should begin to hear water going through the drain pipe. Slowly release the lever to shut off the pressure relief valve. The pressure relief valve is good. If you did not hear water running through the drain pipe, lower the lever on the pressure relief valve and replace the valve. If the lever is difficult to raise, do not force the lever. Replace the pressure relief valve.

Now with all that said if you have a closed loop water supply system and you have a pressure vessal/expantion tank it may have gone bad and is making the TP valve leak. you can call your water provider to see if you have closed loop system.

NO it wont exsplode but it could start leeking at iny time becuese its over its lifespan best bet is to plan on getting a new one soon.

Hello,This valve is pressure only.The model XL is pressure & tempature for a hot water storage/heater tank(has the stick).You need to know male or female thread and the relief # setting of the old one.The info is on the tag on the old one.