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DONT WASTE YOUR TIME AND MONEY THE PCB(POWER CONTROL BOARD IS BAD YOU WILL BE BETTER OFF BUYING A NEW MONITOR)
IF you do find the power control board replacement and get it to work i think you would have better results spending the same amount of money on a new monitor with all new parts plus warranty
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My MDF was built in September 1993. It has a fuse inside a black cylindrical fuse holder on the electronics board that sits aside the motor. If you have a right-angle flat blade screwdriver, you can get the fuse out without removing the motor unit from the case. I didn't have the right tool, so I ended up removing the motor/grinder unit from the case to replace the fuse. The fuse is a 2A/250V Slow Blow. I used a Buss CDC-2A to replace the factory "5TT 2A/250V" fuse.
It's drawing too much current, make sure you install the excact replacement or an alternative approved replacement. Other than that, if it's still blowing the fuse than theres an overcurrent condition in the system...meaning a short.
The problem you have is caused by one of two things,
either a blown power supply in the backlight inverter or bad backlight
bulbs. More than likely it is the bad power supply. The problem in the
power supply are parts called capacitors, they blow out because of the
heat trapped inside the monitor enclosure. If you can solder you should
be able to repair this type of problem. You can go to our web site at: www.ccl-la.com/badcaps.htm
we have pictures of what the capacitors look like when they blow out.
Take the case off the back of your monitor and look for any that look
like the pictures. Replace all of the ones that are bad, the values of
the caps are printed on the side of each one. You can order replacement
caps from several places on the internet or contact us and we can
supply them for you. When installing the replacement caps be sure to
insert the new ones with the stripe on the side going the same way. If
you don't want to do the repairs yourself we offer a repair service. If
you have any additional questions just email me.
There is no difference between a 125v and 250v fuse. The most important thing is the 2Amp. This fuse is probably the line fuse and could be the only trouble and may have blow with a line surge. Make sure the 2A you use is a Fast Blow Type. If it does blow again you most likely have a internal power supply failure.
I had the exact same problem. The screen went black and the green light flashed. I went ahead and took the monitor apart (scary) and took a look at the power supply circuitry. I saw 6 suspicious electrolytic caps on the board. Three 470uF 25V 105 degree C caps, two 1000uF 10V 105 degree C caps, and one 470uF 10V 105 degree cap. They all appeared to be slightly bulging and one even had a small hole in the top. I decided to replace all of them. The parts cost a little more than 5 bucks. I couldn't find a 470uF 10V cap at my local store so I bought a 16 V version instead, which is fine. Anyway, after replacing all 6 caps, the monitor works as good as new.
there is an 022 farad cap right under the f901 f 904 f907 f905 6amp rectifier on the main board if short will blow supply board fuse first before it blows the 4 amp fusses on the main board. replace as needed.
What are the symptoms? How do you know the fuse was blown on the monitor you bought? The fuse on vx924 is soldered onto the circuit board. If you have any symptoms that require power its probably not the fuse. The back lighting on this unit has a problem. Three 25v 470uf caps on the circuit board are underrated and have a tendency to go bad. Replace them with 35v 470uf caps.
I just did this capacitor replacement today after reading these posts. It worked great! I used 470uF
35volt caps from radio shack. There are three 470uF caps two right next to each other and one off by itself on the printed circuit board. The values are easily seen on the side of the capacitors. Open the monitor by removing the screws and prying the halves apart using a large straight edge screwdriver. There is a metal cover over the printed circuit board that will come loose after removing screws around its edge. There are several wire sockets that must be unplugged to allow the circuit board to be flipped over to reveal the capacitors. The board itself is held down with three screws
Once you identify the capacitors, use a fine tipped soldering pencil to melt the solder holding the capacitors in place and remove them. Position the new caps with the dark stripe matching up to the lined marks on the board, carefully apply just enough solder to each terminal to hold the caps in place. Reassemble and you're done.
once the caps blow they usually take out the driver ic too. check across your power to the amp with ohmmeter when you find the issue it will drop to around 20 ohms in one direction.
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