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One side of my powered mixer, Behringer Europowered, went down. It's 1200 watts. Where can I get this repaired at BESIDES Hi-Tech in Lawerence, Ma. Thank you!
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You don't say what item of Focusrite equipment you are trying to connect or for what purpose. Most focusrite stuff has jacks with analog outputs for each channel that can be used into the line ins on the mixer and jack/xlr combos that can be used to take a signal to the focusrite box. Then you get the firewire side for the PC and digital outputs as well which will not be of use with your mixer.
Well... you probably won't like this, but here is some info: In bridged mode, a different Speakon to speaker cable is required from only the B... it is wired differently and you can only use one of the plugs. The speaker or speaker system CANNOT be less than 8 ohms in bridged mode... this precludes using speakers in parallel or multiple speakers that are less than 16 ohm impedance... such speakers are NOT commonly available as most are either 4 or 8 ohm. There is a slide switch for bridged mode on the face of the mixer. Next thing you won't like... The 1200 Watts specification is PEAK power, NOT RMS... You can get 400 watts RMS per side USING 4 ohm speakers. If you use 8 ohm speakers, each of those will get 200 watts. I use this mixer myself and ALSO repair them. The voltage swing at the outputs is about +/-60 volts MAX (peak). This is about 40 volts RMS by the time the circuit LOSSES are taken into account. Across a 4 ohm speaker you get 10 amps times the 40 volts or 400 watts. Across an 8 ohm you get 5 amps or 200 watts. The voltage rails in the switching amp are +/-70 volts DC so these are reasonable values. Bridged mode just uses both sides of the amp driven in opposite directions for higher voltage out BUT you have to use no less than a single 8 ohm speaker so there is NO advantage to bridged mode power wise. IF YOU NEED more power, use extra speakers from an additonal amp driven by the 1/4 TRS mains output jacks OR use additonal POWERED speakers driven from the same jacks. Please read my tip about the hazard regarding the SLEEVE of the cahnnel A cable when using Speakon to 1/4 plug cables being the HOT and the tip being the cold for channel A. Ground the sleeve accidentally and goodbye channel A amp...
i own and at this moment have a behringer opened up because of the same problem you have and ill tell you that 6 electronic shops and all the guys at the forum have not successfully fixed these mixers and its not that its difficult its a manufacturing design flaw in the second board at the output A and output B ports inside the mixer.this board which processes power output from the mixer console out to speakers cannot handle the dual 600 watts (1200 total watts) that is running through it and blows the main coils if you replace the coils it will blow when and if you hit a low/high frequency and it usually happens in the middle of a show when you up the bass or the highs which cause the main transformer/resistors to process too many watts to the coils,either the resistors or the coils blow so the guys at the music/electronics forum are exactly correct but you can get the main board for $44.00 at amazon or ebay so you wont have to spend time and money replacing resistors etc
I don't understand because the Xenyx 1002fx draws only 16 Watts so the fuse should be well less than 1 amp why would you put a 5 amp?
And your 800 Watt mixer???... There is something wrong with this model number as the 1002fx certainly is not 800 Watts. Please supply the correct model numbers so we can help you.
Hello Sir, Hi, the amplifier best suited for it would be a Behringer also, the EP2500 would be a match, and the eurolive B815neo speakers, but this cost a lot, any amplifier and a corresponding speaker will do. for your electric guitars or acoustics the GTX30.
If you will use your 15" speakers, match it with a right amplifier, you did not mention its watts rating, If your speakers are 250 watts, then buy an amplifier slightly higher that 250 watt,
After reviewing the schematic, I don't understand how the Phantom power can REMAIN on with the power switch off... this CANNOT occur except for what energy is left in the 48 volt supply filter cap... This might last for minutes after the fuse went... UNLESS you have devices connected which are backfeeding the 48 volts. (which would be a disaster)
The 48 volts, +/- 12 volts and +/- 15 volts and the +5 volts ALL come from the SAME switching power supply. I suspect one of the filter caps went or the primary switching regulator a TDP245Y chip.
You should ONLY work on the line side of this using an ISOLATION transformer since the line side has lethal voltages.
To do testing, one replaces the fuse and puts a 60 Watt light bulb in series with the hot side of the inout line. The lamp "acts" as a resetable fuse and limits the current for testing. When all is well again, the lamp will remain out with the power flowing through it.
The D1 diode bridge and C7 input rectifier and filter are first things to check. You can do those with an ohmmeter.
I will caution you to ALWAYS power any and all equipment from the SAME power source. Plugging in devices from across the room will set up ground loops and any ground fault will fry equipment.
There isn't anything in the power supply you cannot rebuild except the transformer.
BUT you should verify that something in the mixer didn't short out and damage the supply.
After you relace the smoked parts (likely the TOP245Y offline regulator chip is gonzo... then you use this trick to restart the unit safely:
Put a 60 Watt light bulb in series with the hot side of the input power line. I would recommend you use an ISOLATION transformer when working on the power line side of this for safety.
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