We exchanged the battery but we think the the actual connection is broken and needs to be replaced.

Follow the cable from the battery to where it bolts onto the engine and body, I think it's a two sectioned cable, See if you can see any other wires attached to it and check for shabby loose little bits of broken wires that fit into the actual connector at the cable ends.Electrical connections are normally joined to the positive cable on most cars.
If nothing ,Then go to an independent parts retailer and get a cheaper version matched up as they're all made from the same materials. Phew $400 is a bit crazy. greed is spreading rampagely on our planet, Especially within the motor industry.Good luck.

Recheck your connections. May be a stretched timing chain. Incorrect correlation between a CKP and CMP will cause these codes. Doesn't mean the sensors are bad, it may be the chain.

If the LCD is broken you must first get the price for the LCD unit before you think of changing the unit. If the price is high compared to the price of the camera, then you must think of exchanging the camera.
The LCD must be sourced from the service center.

If you replaced the batteries, and there is no plastic piece in between the battery and the terminal to keep it from sucking battery juice while on the store shelf, then I would think that the toy is broken, and you should try to exchange it for another one.

in my time as a engineer i have never replaced battery cables.so what makes you think you need to replace the cables.?????what ever your problem i would suspect a broken cable or a loose small wire going to the starter.1 take a large cable and connect from body of car to earth of battery,see what happens,large cables dont usely need replaced,follow the cable down the line and you will come the broken joint.adrian,,across

There is something definitely wrong with your keyboard. My batteries last 4-6 months or more.Even with real cheap junk batteries and a lot of use the batteries would last a month or more.

The first and about only thing you can check for and fix is a stuck key. If the key is stuck down the keyboard uses far more power (about 20x) as it is transmitting. That is about the only thing I can think of that will drain the battery that fast. The problem is it sounds like is actually working normally when its working. The disconnecting is going to be either internal or the antenna placement. With it connecting and disconnecting it would use more power but not that much.

I would check for stuck keys, but after that I'm afraid a replacement keyboard. There just isn't that much to fix inside or out of these things so you have very few options on what to do. If you have warranty get it exchanged asap.

OK I think you have two unrelated issues here. The first is the coolant sensor. Either the sensor is broken or, just as likely, there is a problem with the wires going to and from it, either broken or the insulation has broken causing a short. When the coolant sensor malfunctions it can send a signal to engine control unit (ECU) that the coolant, and therefore the engine, is cold. The ECU responds by injecting more fuel to compensate for a 'cold' engine and this causes the engine to race. Fix the coolant sensor/wiring and the engine racing will also be cured. The charging voltage from the alternator is too high in my experience. It should be only be about 14.5 volts even when the battery is low. Most alternators have an integrated brushes and electronic module that can be unbolted and exchanged for a new one. Failing that, an alternator can be bought at a reasonable price on exchange for your old one. Some damage to other electrical systems my result of high voltage supply, my car actually has an over voltage protection relay and fuse to protect the ABS braking system and other circuits. A friendly consultation with an auto electrician now might save money on other things in future

um lets think here. it doesnt have exchange support yet. wait 2 weeks nub. actually, no. just dont mess with it anymore. if you dont know what exchange is then you probably shouldnt try and use it. your IT guy will thank me later when he doesnt have to deal with you every 5 minutes.

Visit nearest Verizon store that has a repair center and they will usually replace it for free. I did this and they actually exchange the whole headset for a new one. They were just out of the over the ear piece. Hope this helps.

I personaly would replace the entire unit, the capacitor is a Ceramic "DC Blocking/Couplng" capacitor, possibly a 0.001uF cap... I should think if ya take it to any component supplier/radio repair shop or the like they would be able to give ya a replacement?