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was there no diagram on the back service panel of the freezer when you removed it.was there no diagram on the back service panel of the freezer when you removed it.
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A "potential" relay is a voltage controlled start component for the compressor. If your sure the potential relay is bad, not the start capacitor or a seized compressor, Order one from G.E. and replace it.
Hello, The relay can be tested by putting meter leads in the 2 holes on it where it attaches to the compressor and it should be closed (zero ohms of resistiance) if you have the rectangle one thats how to test it. If its older style and has the wire coils on top of it must turn it upside down but still closed w/zero ohms.
to test overload thermostat disconnect it from compressor and it to should be closed with zero ohms from spade to where wire connects to hole where it connects onto prong on compressor.
both the realy and overload should be removed from compessor to test
if both check good test compressor by one meter lead on prong where overload fits onto and other on one then the other prong. Both the start and run winding on compressor should be between 5-20 ohms if either is open compressor is dead
Wiring diagram of the chest freezer turned into chest fridge. The junction box is not required if all connections are made inside the fridge service compartment. Active (A) connection passes via latching relay terminals inside the thermostat.
Start Relay/Overload or Compressor is bad. A bad compressor can make a Start Relay/Overload go bad but the only way to find out if compressor or Start Relay/Overload is bad is to replace the Start Relay/Overload if it starts and stays running you fixed it if Prob. returns in a week or so or if you have the same Prob. after replacing the relay the compressor is bad.
Your unit is not a self defrosting freezer and consequently has no defrost timer. There are only four components required for cooling in your unit. The temperature control, behind the knob in the cabinet. The compressor at the back bottom. The start relay and overload in a box attached to the compressor. The run capacitor attached to the start relay. A failure of any of those will cause the compressor not to run.
Check the wall outlet to be sure you have power.
If the compressor IS running but not cooling, the compressor itself may be defective or the gas charge may have leaked out. Compressor and refrigeration problems are likely beyond your capabilities in terms of knowledge and equipment.
The temperature control may be tested by all connecting the wires of the control to ONE terminal after unplugging the freezer and marking down teh original locations of the wires. If the compressor runs and cools after this by-pass then change the control and return the wiring to the original locations.
If the above does not make the compressor run the next possibility is changing both the relay/overload assembly AND the run capacitor. If these fail to correct the problem you need a new compressor but you will likely NOT be able to return the parts replaced.
There is a relay and protector, these are where the wires attach to the compressor,or rather how the power wires attach to the compressor.You can purchase a 3n1 start kit which has the instructions with it. Be sure to unplug the freezer before touching the wires or attempting to install replacement parts.
The S terminal should read zero when you invert the relay. The M terminal should be zero at all times through the relay. If you follow the coil wires on the relay you will find they go from the line connection to the M terminal. M meaning main or run terminal. When current is drawn through the M terminal it pulls in the contact for start to the S terminal. When the compressor comes up to speed the current drops off and the start contact opens allowing the compressor to continue to run on the M terminal.
There used to be but it cannot be read due to weathering
was there no diagram on the back service panel of the freezer when you removed it.
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