The top of the spinning post in the middle of the tub now won't spin when washing (evidently disconnected from lower part of spinning post)?

In top load washers, if the machine goes through the cycles and then just stops at the spin cycle and leaves you with no noise and a tub full of water more than likely the lid switch is bad and not completing the circuit for cycle to continue. This is a safety precaution to prevent injury by reaching in the machine while at high speed spin. If the machine is getting to the spin cycle and still turning slowly but not draining the water, the pump is probably the culprit, either being locked up or in most cases something like a sock, etc. is stuck in it preventing it from turning. This is usually indicated by a humming sound during the spin/drain section with no water draining.In top load washers, if the machine goes through the cycles and then just stops at the spin cycle and leaves you with no noise and a tub full of water more than likely the lid switch is bad and not completing the circuit for cycle to continue. This is a safety precaution to prevent injury by reaching in the machine while at high speed spin. You can usually look and visually see the spot where the switch should be and if damaged. How to repair :
1) Unplug the machine. 2) At the head, or control panel, find the two screws that hold it to the case. Some are on the left and right front lower corners of the panel, and some are vertical facing s on the rear left and right side. Also on some models they are in the front but you have to pull the end caps off the sides of the control panel. 3) Remove the 2 screws and then pull the panel from the lower part of it towards you and roll it backwards. 4) Disconnect the lid switch connection in the the middle where the two grey wires and the green wire block connects to the body of the machine, usually near the middle under the panel. 5) with a flathead screwdriver pop out the two brass retainer clips on the right and left side. 6) Open the lid slightly where you can grab the case, not the tub, just the case, and pull forward and surprise!!! You just took the complete top, sides and front of the machine off. The lid switch will be attached to this portion so located it, remove the two screws that hold it in place, under the lid, and swap out with a new one. This is a cheap repair, just take your time and you'll be fine.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

In top load washers, if the machine goes through the cycles and then just stops at the spin cycle and leaves you with no noise and a tub full of water more than likely the lid switch is bad and not completing the circuit for cycle to continue. This is a safety precaution to prevent injury by reaching in the machine while at high speed spin. If the machine is getting to the spin cycle and still turning slowly but not draining the water, the pump is probably the culprit, either being locked up or in most cases something like a sock, etc. is stuck in it preventing it from turning. This is usually indicated by a humming sound during the spin/drain section with no water draining.In top load washers, if the machine goes through the cycles and then just stops at the spin cycle and leaves you with no noise and a tub full of water more than likely the lid switch is bad and not completing the circuit for cycle to continue. This is a safety precaution to prevent injury by reaching in the machine while at high speed spin. You can usually look and visually see the spot where the switch should be and if damaged. How to repair :
1) Unplug the machine. 2) At the head, or control panel, find the two screws that hold it to the case. Some are on the left and right front lower corners of the panel, and some are vertical facing s on the rear left and right side. Also on some models they are in the front but you have to pull the end caps off the sides of the control panel. 3) Remove the 2 screws and then pull the panel from the lower part of it towards you and roll it backwards. 4) Disconnect the lid switch connection in the the middle where the two grey wires and the green wire block connects to the body of the machine, usually near the middle under the panel. 5) with a flathead screwdriver pop out the two brass retainer clips on the right and left side. 6) Open the lid slightly where you can grab the case, not the tub, just the case, and pull forward and surprise!!! You just took the complete top, sides and front of the machine off. The lid switch will be attached to this portion so located it, remove the two screws that hold it in place, under the lid, and swap out with a new one. This is a cheap repair, just take your time and you'll be fine.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

The tub or clutch bearing could be going bad. If you see evidence of water leakage under the machine or on top of the transmission under the tub, it's definitely the tub bearing.

HI,
This problem is caused by either a broken washer tub drive belt or a broken washer tub drive coupler, look under the machine for evidence of this.If it is found to be true you have to go for a replacement of that particular unit.

tub bearings may be frozen up. Can you move tub by hand?

If you can move the tub by hand laterally - the rear main bearing has likely failed - or the drum rollers are worn.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Double posting, are you still having the issue, did reseating the clutch clear the issue?

i believe i can help you,,but washers dont agitate in the spin cycle,,i believe you ment it wont wring or spin in the spin cycle..your lid switch is defective,,replace,,if need be i can talk you though,,onthejob

its your timer if just humming not running

sounds like may be in clutch see if you can help the tub start spinning when trying in spin setting...if trying to turn or turns some and stops most likey clutch slipping