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There is no reset button. If you disconnect all of the speaker wires from the amplifier's speaker terminals and unplug the RCA cables, does the protect light still come on (I assume that you've already replaced the fuse)?
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Chances are that more than a fuse went. I would follow (internally) the path of the wires from the speaker you mentioned - inside the amp. This should bring you out to the main amp. I think you will find that whatever powers that channel is faulty.
Disconnect all speaker connections and rca cables. Leave power, ground and remote wires intact. Try turning on again. If you still have a protection light your amp is faulty. Hopefully you have warranty. Your amp is clipping.
No internal fuses. Your mosfets are toast.
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It sounds like you either blew a fuse, or you cooked your amp. The fuse on the P200.2 amp is a 30A fuse, and it sits right next to the power, ground, and remote wire connections on the end. Pull the fuse out and see if it's blown. You should also check any other fuses that you have in the car before the amp.
un hook the subs and let the amp sit there on if the protect light shuts off you wired your subs wrong if it doesnt go off tun it off then back on with no sub music all the way down then slowly turn the music up if the light is off then comes on you need new rcas
Your current alternator is strained and cannot give the required current draw of your amp. Most aftermarket amps have exterior fuses. Try adding these up for a round-about current draw number. I would bet that your amp is killing the availible power from the electrical charging system of your car. You could always go up to a higher fuse, (I run a 200 amp breaker) bu this will only make your stereo work and your alternator fail prematurely. Try searching ebay or go to ohio generator for a stronger output alternator.
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