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YOU MOST LIKELY NEED A NEW THERMOSTAT. You need to make sure you get the correct one they are not all the same.. you will also need to set how long the fan stays on after its stops heating the ducts If you have your owners Manuel look and see what kind it calls for. If your talking about a manufactured home it will be with all of correspondence.. I hope this was helpful and the green light is good but not blinking
Can you confirm that your gas pressure/ supply is correct-- by lighting all of the range top burners at the same time-- Do they all light quickly, and burn to full height, without much of any yellowing at the flame tips? That should indicate you have god gas pressure and supply.
Now-- in the Oven itself- When you light the BROIL burner-- does it's glow ignitor light up, and does that burner light off OK?
If it is only the main oven burner that is not lighting, are you able to remove the cover plate that covers it, and watch it light off? -- Any clues on whether or not the gas valve even open?
If NO gas flow, likely you need a new Main Oven Gas Valve-- Probably need to call your Gas Appliance service person.
Check the draft inducer air switch ( vacuum diaphragm switch) If the switch is opening when the burner starts, you might have a blockage on air piping coming into the furnace. Also prime the condensate trap on the condensate drain from the combustion fan. Also check the gas pressure, if your gas pressure is dropping, the gas pressure switch will shut it down. If it's too high the moment it comes on could raise the pressure in the furnace dropping out the combustion fan proving switch.
Pull your heat tray and clean burners and check for rat nests. A common cause of this is spider webs in the gas orfaces on the supply pipe. If you remove the brass orfaces they may have small,small,small tiny webs inside them oyu can blow out or clear with a toothpic. they dirvet the gas from the main burner (the one with the ignitor) as the gas builds it will poof and start but then the other burners that have gas flow won't be close enough to let the ignitor read flame so it will cycle just like you describe. My kingdom for a toothpic. I have made a tool to do this out of a stripped wire bent just so with the end roughed up to catch the webs so I didn't have to pull the tray on heaters with this proble. You should pull the tray and see the whole problem to understand it better.. I hope this helps and good luck.
sounds like its not proofing flame. it has a sensor usually like a needle sticks out into the flame that tells the gas valve the flame lit and is burning so its ok to keep sending gas, if its fails to proof flame then burner shuts down, then it tries to relight 3 times then locks out on fail safe. the blower will sometimes run continually once that occurs to highlight a failed condition. every time you reset it will try again 3 times then shut down. lp gas is very dangerous, even i do not work on it as the gas acts like gasoline and lays around. not like natural gas that disperses well. if you see the flame sensor try gently cleaning it with a little emory cloth. also a loose ground can cause this. check tio be sure any green wires are snug , they actually flow volts to ground through the flame on some to proof, thats why no ground no flame. if that fails then the board is most likely problem. change wire for wire , or get generic replacemant and follow directions exactly. good luck.some ignitors act as a flamre proofer as soon as they are done igniting! rarely do they fail to perform both funtions.
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