Fried Amp My LANZAR Vibe266 fried the other day and i think i can repair it if i had the wiring diagrams. Anyone know where i can get them?

Disconnect all speaker connections and rca cables. Leave power, ground and remote wires intact. Try turning on again. If you still have a protection light your amp is faulty. Hopefully you have warranty .
.A thumbs up would be greatly appreciated if this answer is helpful to you.

Yes it should do the job. You will need to wire the sub in series and make sure you have a 4ohm load on the amp. It should be right at around 700 watts RMS @ 12-13 volts.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/chris_7f7f91eb941fb23f

Disconnect all speaker connections and rca cables. Leave power, ground and remote wires intact. Try turning on again. If you still have a protection light your amp is faulty. Hopefully you have warranty . .A thumbs up would be greatly appreciated if this answer is helpful to you. Might be time to invest in a new amp.

The 2 ohm stable rating on the amp is PER channel meaning that you could effectively hook up a 2 ohm speaker or a 2 ohm load to each channel without the amp getting f"d up-butin bridged mode it will only be 4 ohm stable. to achieve a 4 ohm load with your sub the type x wire the coils in series that will get you at 4 ohms to run in bridged mono .But you will get the exact same amount of power if you wire each coil to one channel of the amp as bridged mono sees the sum of your 2 ohm channels combined-Hope that helps.

The problem are worsen that before. It is wisely to replace both left and right amplifier
IC, but make ensure that the power supply feed a good amount of voltage to amplifier,
Also a strong good signal. Be sure to measure it.

r_ic7

no idea, but i think you should leave the subs the right way in the box

Please write more how you have made connections. I need schemtaics to help you.

Check your connections on your speakers themselves, also check your connections of the speaker wire to your amp and also check for any cuts or damage throughout your wiring as this my be caused by the + and - wires that touch

This sounds like a problem with the power input to the amplifier; it's possible, but unlikely, that your CD player is causing it. Before you can do any real troubleshooting, you need a voltmeter. When your CD player is turned on, you should get a voltmeter reading of around 12 volts at the amplifier's remote terminal and B+ (power) terminal. If your main power wire doesn't show voltage, check for a loose or corroded connection at the battery or fuseholder, and try replacing the fuse (even if it looks okay). If there's no voltage on the remote wire, it may be pinched or shorted between the CD player and the amplifier, or the CD player may be faulty. If you get a good voltage reading on both wires, but the amp won't turn on, then you have a problem in the amplifier.

Check your speaker load. It probably should be 4 ohms per channel. Also, if you are bridging then you must double your ohms load. It may be that your old amp could tolerate a lower impedence (ohms load) than the new amp. Do this now so you don't fry your amp. Good luck.