Continuous ground wire problem

I don't know your specific fan or switch.

Following link is TYPICAL illustration of 3-wire fan switch wiring:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Fan-motor-1-500.jpg

Three way switch is designed to match TYPICAL fan motor windings.
Motor windings are insulated copper wire wrapped around metal fan housing, similar to electromagnet you can make by wrapping wire around a nail.

Inside the fan motor are two windings.
Winding 1 for low speed.
Winding 2 for medium speed.
And when both windings are combined, that makes high speed.

You have to test your switch.
Usually the hot lead connects to red. So the red connects to each of the other wires.
Then pull the chain and use continuity tester between red wire and other wires to see how the switch is set up.

If I understand correctly you have a 3-speed fan.
And you need a 3-speed replacement pull-chain-type switch

Lowes carries 3 speed fan switches in the light fixture department.
These switches have multiple wires.
At any given time, there is one-and-only-one wire that connects to power from wall switch.
Lets call this the Power wire.
As you pull the chain, the power passes through the switch and goes to one-and-only-one of the other wires.
The other wires connect to windings in the motor.
The different motor windings control fan speed.

The key to replacing the switch is recording where each wire went before you disconnect old switch.
Once you know which of these wires is the Power wire, then you can test other wires with a continuity tester.
You also know the pull-chain sequence is OFF - HIGH - Medium - Low
Mark wires in fan and mark wires on old switch.
Pull out old switch.
Use regular electrical tester to find which wire in the fan is the power wire (separate wires, turn on power and test each wire to metal part of fan)
Now test the switch wires.
The switch is out of the fan.
You marked the wires so you know which wire is power wire.
Put the continuity tester on the power wire.
Test power wire to each of the other wires.
Click the switch and test to each of the other wires. Mark which wire lights up continuity tester.
Click the switch and test again. Mark which wire lights up continuity tester.
Click again, until each wire is marked in the sequence.
When you click the switch and no wire lights up, then that is the Switch OFF position.
Do the same test on the new pull-chain switch.
Connect the wires to match your testing.

Remove the plug and starrt from the plug to the fan unit connection, use a multimeter to check on the continuity of the wire and move on to check the switch and to the coils of the fan. See if the coils are short internally or if the winding is shorted to the ground. Check the capacitor if the coils are fine , replace and power. You fan must work or else you must check once again with a meter in ac mode the supply till the coils to confirm if the switch is working. I am sure unless the winding are short( in which case you will need rewinding) the fan will work. Hope you get this right. Good day

Utilitec does not make a 2 speed timer.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Program-wire-Utilitech-LW60419.html

1) One possible option is a timer with NO and NC terminals like Intermatic-Grasslin FM1 series rated 1 HP. This example timer would have the motor running continually on either one speed or the other.
http://www.intermatic.com/~/media/files/intermatic/products/instructions/grasslin/fm1%20series%20time%20switches.ashx

2) Inside a 2-speed motor are two separate windings.
Windings are loops of copper wire that cause the fan motor to rotate.
For 2-speed, each winding has to be connected to a different 'switch.'
For example, like a ceiling fan. You pull the chain once, and electricity flows to one winding. Pull the chain again, and the switch sends electricity to another winding.

3) The following wiring diagram shows ordinary on-off timer connected to 2-speed switch: This is the basic plan for Broan Nutone 2-speed switch timer, which might be the product you are replacing
http://blog.airscapefans.com/wp-content/uploads//timer_option1_1-1024x768.jpg

4) Nutone makes a 2-speed whole house fan timer.
http://www.nutone.com/PDF/InstallGuides/CFS2WHins89777.pdf

5) And open following Broan Nutone manual that show the two spped timer wiring
http://www.nutone.com/PDF/InstallGuides/CFS2ins57169.pdf

Check all your electrical wires and connections. If all okay, you can remove the compressor wires and ohm the compressor motor windings to ground. If you have continuity from any winding-to-ground, your compressor is shorted out and will need to be replaced.

We need to know what wires you have as far as connections to the motor AND the switch. I.e. Red white black green and ______?

Is the switch resistive or just a 2 position (high/ low) 15 Amp switch?

We also need to know how the the terminals on the motor board are labeled. i.e T1, L1, T2, L2. T3, T4 etc and ground. L1 Black L2 White for high speed Green for gorund. The other 2 colors will be for the slower speed winding.

Experimenting with electricity can be costly and VERY dangerous. I would do continutiy checks on the motor windings across L1 and L2 or T1 and T2 and the same for the 2nd winding terminals. Then do the same continuity check from the power wires through the switch and verify the winding resistance across the 2 power leads in BOTH switch positions BEFORE applying power.

Most reputable pump manufacturing companies have the winding terminals on the label or included with the pump with a basic wiring diagram.

FYI you can... use a gate valve for controlling output flow from the pump and run the pump at one speed as an alternative.

I am just being honest here.. without either a wiring diagram of your pump and switch assy it is difficult to pass "safe and sound" advice to you.

Thanks for using FixYa.

Kelly

Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. If your dryer isn't working or isn't getting heated up, you'll need to check the following to be sure what exactly the issue is--

Blows fuses or trips circuit breaker —ELECTRIC Models:
• The amperage readings are at 240 volts. One line will be 24 amps and the other line will be 21 amps. The neutral line will be at 3 amps. If the above amperages are not present, then the house wiring, fuse box or circuit breaker should be suspect.
• Shorted heating element to housing.
• Incorrect wiring or a wire shorting to ground.
• Drive motor winding shorting to ground.

Blows fuses or trips circuit breaker —GAS Models:
• If igniter is not glowing, check for 120 V at igniter.
• Igniter harness may be loose and shorted to base.
• Incorrect wiring or a wire shorted to ground.
• Drive motor winding shorting to ground.


If it runs for a few minutes and then stops, then check for the following:--
• Empty dryer.
• Check motor spins freely.
• Lint buildup around drive motor.
• Low voltage present.
• Blower impeller blocked in blower housing.
• Drive motor - start switch contacts stuck closed.


Please do rate the solution and revert for further assistance.


Thanks

Rylee

the 2 wires black [power/hot] white[ground/neutral] black should connect to one side of switch other side of switch should continue to one side of winding and other side of winding to white

well if this is the model i think it is you have pgm ignition. you have an ignition coil , ignitor unit, ground wires all(corrosion) left to check.
coil testing

1. With ignition switch OFF, remove the distributor cap.
2. Remove the two screws to disconnect the BLK/YEL front terminal A and WHT/BLU from terminal B of the coil.
3. Using an ohmmeter, check resistance between terminals. Replace coil if resistance is not within specification.
4. Check that the primary winding resistance between terminals A and B is 0.3-0.5 ohms.
5. Check that the secondary winding resistance between terminals A and the coil tower is 9,440-14,160 ohms.
6. If not within specifications, replace the coil.

unit testing

1. Check and service any Honda engine codes before proceeding.
2. Check the No. 32 50A fuse on 1985-91 models, or the No. 39 50A fuse on 1992-95 models in the dash fuse box before testing.
3. Remove the distributor cap, rotor and the leak cover.
4. Disconnect the wires from the igniter.
5. Turn the ignition switch ON.
6. Check for voltage between the BLK/YEL wire and ground. If there is no voltage check the BLK/YEL wire and ignition switch.
7. Check for voltage between the WHT/BLU wire and ground. If there is no voltage check the WHT/BLU wire and the ignition coil.
8. Check the continuity between the WHT wire and body ground. Service the wire or connectors as needed.
9. Check for continuity between the BLU wire and body ground. If no continuity check the wire and connectors between the igniter unit and the

tachometer or the A/Trans control unit.

after these things let me know if problem persists

1. If any tests were not passed, replace the igniter unit.