Our timer on the heating keeps cutting out for no reason. It is like the electricity supply is cut. To get it back on I haev to turn it off and on at the wall. Still keeps cutting out though. Also it turns the boiler on at different times to that set. Do I need to get a new timer ?

Is there anything such as heat cut off or overwork cut off circuitry in your device. Some electrical devices are to be rested after a certain period of use in order to enhance longevity...has your pump this facility too?

If you can not hold your hand on the motor for a count of 10 when it has cut out, the motor has overheated and needs to be replaced or find some reason for an overload.

It is possible that the relay is staying latched to supply voltage to the magnetron even after the timer shuts down. This is dangerous and must be rectified.
You need to check the door switch and the lines from the program timer to switch the relay of the magnetron. It is possible that the timer is faulty and needs a check on the reason why it stays latched unless the power is cut. You can disconnect the magnetron to test but attempt ONLY if you are familiar with high voltage/ electrical circuits.

It doesn't necessarily mean the heating element is busted when an electric dryer stops heating. The heating circuit is not just composed solely by the heating element, it is composed by the thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, motor centrifugal switch, and the timer. The first thing to look at when an electric dryer stops heating is the thermal cut-off. It cuts power to the heating element when it blows most likely due to the failure of the high-limit thermostat. The thermal cut-off must be replaced, together with the high-limit thermostat, if found open. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this problem.

Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers (Filter on Top and with Removable Back Panel) Running But Not Heating

Hi William,
If you have necessary tools and test instruments, and know safety precaution in basic troubleshooting, I would advice you to check/replace the electrolytic capacitor in the power supply section, this cap malfunction and produce out-of-regulation which sense by the feedback circuitry and turn the unit into subsequent shutdown. Also, look for a bad solder joints on the board., it will do the same thing. Secondary reasons of symptom is Voltage Regulator IC, and microcontroller circuitry.
If you can't do the job yourself, I would advice you to look for a technician to isolate the faulty parts.
Hope I helped you.
Have a nice day!
Thanks for using Fixya.

I would need a model number to better narrow the problem down for you.
If this is a gas dryer
Remove the lower panel. With the lower toe panel removed, start the dryer & watch the igniter. If the igniter glows & cuts off without lighting the gas this would usually indicate the gas valve coils are weak & will need to be replaced. For this type of repair be sure to disconnect the electrical power & turn off the gas to the dryer. If the timer is set in the auto dry cycle, it will not advance if the dryer is not heating. Once you repair the dryer, the timer should start advancing. It is possible that your old timer is good. If you need further assistance please resubmit your question.
If this is a electric dryer
The timer not advancing from 50 minutes in time dryer & the unit not heating are not related unless 1 leg of the 240 volt supply is lost. Diagnosing a problem like this will require using a volt/ohm meter. With the timer set to time dry you should be getting 240volts to the timer motor & 240volts to the heating element. In the wiring diagram provided L1 comes from the timer on R & goes through the thermal cutoff, oper thermostat & the hi-limit to provide 120volts to 1 leg of the heating element. The L2 leg goes through the motor switch to the other side of the heating element. This is how the element gets 240volts. The timer motor gets its voltage on BK from L1 & OR from L2; this is what advances the timer.

Hello, I'll start by saying there are seceral possible fault's that can manifest into the dryer not heating yet it function's otherwise. The first item to check is the voltage supply. Find the breaker for your dryer at the service panel (30amps) and turn it off all the way and then back on all the way. Does the dryer heat now ? If yes, then the breaker was partially tripped but still alowing 120v to the unit which is enough to let it operate but without heat. If it was tripped though there likely was a reason, so you should monitor it's behavior closely. If no it wasn't the problem, it could also be a faulty timer, heater or hi-temp cut-out, the most common being the heater (#3387747) followed by the cut-out which comes with a new cycling stat (# 279973). With the aid of a ohm meter and removing tge access panel at the bottom in front, they are fairly easy to check. But... Instead of me trying to put it in word's on what, how, and where, I recommend checking out youtube and typing in "whirlpool dryer repair". You'll find lot's of helpful guided video's to assist in most any dryer repair. Hope that help's move you forward. If so please take a second to rate the info I provided for you here a fixya. Thank's for visiting FixYa and good luck. Macmarkus :)

needs new timer switch
the timer swithc contains 2 switches one for the motor and one for the heating element, the element switch has fused closed. not reliably repairable,

even if open the timer, break apart the contacts, file them smooth, reassemble, will still lock up again

replacement is less than a new dryer

Hi, I've had a similar problem with my electrolux EOB4633. I've replaced the "thermal cut out unit" and it's working now. Basically this unit switches on the outer casing fan ( on top in my oven ) to keep the casing from overheating. When the thermal cut out doesn't work it fails to switch on the fan and the casing overheats, the oven then cuts out completely until it has cooled down and the cycle starts again.

The bit to be replaced ( part no 8996619267611 ) is located on top of the oven, under the outer cover, just behind the timer & selector switch. It's a small ( 1inch long ) silicon sleeve with 4 wires coming out of it, just unplug the wires and replace it with the new one ( unplug/disconnect the power to the oven, or switch of the power at the mains switch first ), then remove the oven outer top cover ( all you need is a screwdriver ). You'll see the offending unit, probably tie wrapped to one of the wire bundles, quite easily - mine was blackened and charred.

Good luck!

Is the water supply (for supplying cooling water to the condenser) switched on? If not, there's no real mechanism for removing heat from the machine, and it might reasonably be expected to shut itself down. Once you've got water going to the inlet hose, you might check that the solenoid valve which shuts the water off when the machine is turned off hasn't failed, and that the jet through which the water squirts into the condenser (if that's separate in this model) isn't blocked. A.