Brinz97, Yes, to your ?.. Do this first!! Turn it off and subin a working monitor. Place 940MW in safe place! Now check to see if it is still covered by Samsung warranty. The next thing for you to investigate will be YOUTUBE!! If you haven't been there yet, you sure are missing a ton of stuff on typical repairs of lcd monitors!!! Only you can make the decision to spend $12 and fix it yourself or $40-$100 to contract out the work! A very good clue was when you stated "great picture...when it comes on" !! This leads me to believe that a simple repair to the "switch-mode-power-supply" is all that is needed. It could be as easy as resoldering 1 "frosty/cold" solder joint or replacing 4 to 6 "electrolytic filter capacitors" that have failed prematurely!! To view some of these goto www.ccl-la.com/badcaps.htm or any of the sites that deal with BAD capacitors. Here is the advice you need. I say "If you are able to effect a repair for less than $15, then also think about getting a new one also with the $ saved!!! Then you will also have a working SPARE unit on-hand. If you need more help get back here to fixya with another post to your original. or [email protected] I'm 12fixlouie
Diagnosis: If none of the above test resolve the issue, then the failure lies in one of the following:
I had a similar problem. I had a 52"
RCArear projection tv. It
would do this when I initially turned on the television, but then after a few
"on/off, on/off, on/off" cycles it would stay on. Eventually it
started doing it more; until finally there was a spark and that was it. The tv
was dead.The bloggers called it "the blinking green light of death" (because
of green light on the panel).The
power board is going out.ALSO holding down the Input and Menu buttons afterward will give you
some diagnostic information via 2 sets of blinking indicator lights.
You may very well have issues with capacitors on this set being that it is or very similar to the V26 chassis. Since I have spare test lamps laying around, I would normally try that first. If the lamp still would not stay lit, I would then suspect the electrical chassis (capacitors). When I suspect the chassis, I can usually verify it by pulling it out and partially disassemble it and find blown capacitors
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