Frigidaire ATF6000ES Front Load Washer Logo
Carl Puntarich Posted on Nov 10, 2009
Answered by a Fixya Expert

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Everything in ref freezing up - Frigidaire ATF6000ES Front Load Washer

  • Carl Puntarich Nov 10, 2009

    there is no timer in this unit it has a computer

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  • Master 3,741 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 10, 2009
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Joined: May 04, 2009
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1)check the temperature setting.it should be set on normal mode. 2) check if the ventilation in the fridge are blocked .there are two possibilities you will have to check 1)the defrost timer 2)the evaporator coil. How a common frost free defrost cycle works and the main parts. When the refrigerator is running ( cooling mode ) the defrost timer contacts prevents any power from getting to the defrost heater. When the defrost timer turns off the power to the compressor and fan motor(s) the power is then redirected to the defrost system. The defrost timer motor. Defrost timers:
The defrost timer is sometimes found behind the front grill of the refrigerator. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the refrigerator or freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the refrigerator near the compressor.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector.
Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. One click and the refrigerator shuts off = defrost mode, second click the compressor and fans come back on = run/cooling mode.
*Some defrost timers are a constant or continuous run timer, which means when ever the refrigerator is plugged in the defrost timer is powered up and running. Some defrost timers are an accumulative run timer, which means when the refrigerator is off the defrost timer is off and not running, when the refrigerator is running the defrost timer is running. This is also sometimes called a demand defrost. The power for the defrost timer goes through the cold control first on an accumulative defrost system. The timers are often the same but will be wired differently to get the different operations.
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the evaporator coils are located at the inner side of the freezer section.if the ice gets collected in the coil and the evaporator fan stops running then the inner system of refrigerator will get over cool and this problem happens.
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now to solve the issue .if to check evaporator coil is faulty or not there is a system.just unplug the unit from main power outlet then wait for 24 hours.then replug the power cord in the main power outlet.in 24 hours all the ice collected in between the coil and anywhere will get melted and then check out.if it works properly the problem was ice in coils.but if same problem then defrost timer needs replacement,you can get new timer friom
--- www.repairclinic.com
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This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya.

  • Anonymous Nov 10, 2009

    if there is computer board in the refrigerator then it has to be checked by multimeter if there is any part faulty in the board it can be replaced but if there is a short circuit in the board and due to that the defrost/frost timing is not working then the computer board needs replacement.

    to replace the computer board the procedure is as follows:--

    UNPLUG THE FRIDGE!}}}

    Pull the fridge out away from the wall so you can get behind it. As you're looking at the back of the fridge, you'll see a panel at the top left. You can't miss it. It has about 15 screws holding it in place. Remove these (use a 1/4" nut driver or socket) then remove the panel.

    Now if you look closely at the board and take note of the connectors, you'll see that it's fool-proof... which means that after you take them off, you can NOT get it wrong when you put them on the new board.
    OK, you'll see 3 connectors on one end of the board and they are all white. You'll see 2 connectors at the opposite end, one is white and the other is blue. Remove the 3 white connectors first, leave the other 2 for last.

    Next, look closely at the board again... you'll see 4 white plastic tabs sticking through the board. These are the stand-off clips that hold it in place. Look very closely and you'll see that these clips have a "locking" tab on them. Use the tip of a knife to push the tab in while pulling out on the corresponding section of the board. Do this on all 4 corners and the board is out.

    Now you should still have the 2 remaining wire connectors (the blue one and the white one) still on the board, remove them now. Pull out your new board, install the 2 connectors (blue and white) first then mount the new board onto the plastic stand-off clips, then connect your 3 remaining white wires connectors. After that is done, plug in the machine for test. You should hear the compressor start within 5 seconds or so.

    When you re-install the aluminum cover, make sure that you connect that "flying" green ground wire to one of the screws used for the panel. It's necessary.


    ------

    the colours of the wire may differ in some cases but the procedure is same to replace the board.if you see any burnt wires or connectors on the board then may be its not whole board that is faulty but only that particular wire or connector.that you can also check out with the help of multimeter.



    if you are not familiar with doing this you can get it done by local refrigerator repair technician familiar with this model of refrigerator.

    also you can get required parts from

    www.repairclinic.com

    or from

    www.partselect.com

    thanks for updating.
    Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya.

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