Cannot remove old tiolet seat as the nut imbedded in the ceremic appars to be cross threaded

U hammer them out and then use a new nut and a sleeve (a short piece of pipe works) to pull them back into the serrated opening. Use lube on the nut and sleeve when pulling the new studs in place.

Go to the auto parts store and borrow a nutcracker. Attach the nutcracker to the stuck nut. Tighten the nutcracker with a rachet wrench until the cracks completely in half. Now you can remove the wheel. Buy a new wheel stud and lug nut. Your lug nut will be pressed into a metal piece. Remove this piece and either 1) support the metal piece, put a good amount of penetrating oil on both sides of the bad lug nut and tap firmly with a large hammer. Let this sit for 5-10 minutes so that the oil can penetrate the stud. Now pound out the old lug nut with a large hammer. If it will not budge, then you can try heating the stud with a torch until it is quite hot and then hit the stud progressivly harder until it comes out. Now insert the new stud and pound it in until it stops moving. Last, before you reassemble, put the lug not on the new stud and tighten it real good to make sure that the stud is comletely seated. 2) the other option is to take the metal piece to the parts store and let them remove the stud and press a new stud for you.

you may have to remove the seat and floor mat to get to the nut

If the screws won't turn either way, they're probably "cross-threaded" or stripped. You'll have to unscrew them with force. I'd use a ratchet and socket on an extension (you might want to use a deep socket, since the bolts often extend an inch or two past the nut).

Once you get them off & can remove the seat, head to the hardware store or Home Depot & pick up a new set of bolts & nuts. They're very inexpensive. When installing them, make sure that the nuts screw onto the bolts with finger pressure alone, before taking a wrench or pliers to them.

If using force to unscrew them ends up damaging the toilet lid/seat assembly (this is the worst-case scenario), then you'll have to spring for a new toilet seat. The up-side of this is that new seat/lid assembly come with the screws and nuts, and - depending on what you want - can cost as little as $15 for an "economy" model, and up to $30-35 or so for a "deluxe" model.

Consider using a toggle bolt (with wings) and a large stainless steel washer to re-attach the seat.

Look under the seat (either side) 1"-2" behind the back of the fuel tank; you'll see a nut holding a threaded shaft into tabs protruding from the frame. Loosen and remove the nuts on both sides, lift the seat up, until the threaded shafts are completely free of the tabs, then move the seat straight forward. That will free a catch, molded into the underside of the seat, from a loop in the frame that holds the back of the seat down and keeps the seat from moving side-to-side. Reassembly is in reverse order: there is a specification for the nuts - 5 ft.-lbs. (7 nm) - but it's usually sufficient to tighten the nuts snugly on both sides

Yes. If the nut is not cross threaded. Try using a garden hose washer. I think that's going to be the right size.

your new seat will have bolts and nuts with it.

Hello Miguel Thank you for using FixYa.com my name is David I hope this Helps you out.
Studs often get damaged from overtightening or from cross threading a nut on the threads. A damaged stud is replaced by unscrewing it from the part and installing a new one of the exact same size.
Stud replacement can be difficult because the stud has often been in place for a long period of time. There has been constant heating and cooling, corrosion, and rust buildup between the stud threads and the internal threads of the part. These factors combine to make some studs very difficult to remove.
The first step in stud removal is to use penetrating fluid to remove the corrosion to free the stud from its mating threads. Soak the area of the threads with penetrating fluid. Allowing the fluid to soak into the threads overnight will make it easier to remove the stud.
Before removing the old stud, measure the distance it sticks up from the surface. This measurement will be needed later when installing the new stud. Use a 6-inch scale to measure from the part surface to the top of the stud. Write the measurement down so it can be referred to later.
A stud remove is used to remove studs. It is installed over the stud. The jaws on the stud remover grip the outside of the stud. A wrench fits on the stud remover and allows the technician to rotate the stud in a counterclockwise direction to remove the stud.
If a stud remover is not available, a stud can be removed with two nuts. Locate two nuts that are the correct thread size. To thread onto the stud. Start one nut and thread it all the way down to the bottom of the stud. This nut will be the drive nut. Start another nut and thread it down until it contacts the first nut. This is called the jam nut.
Put a wrench on the bottom drive nut and hold it in place. Put another wrench on the jam nut and tighten, or "jam" it against the drive nut. The jam nut will now hold the drive nut in position on the stud.
Now put an open-end wrench on the bottom drive nut. Turn the nut in a counterclockwise direction. Turning the nut in this direction causes it to want to unscrew the stud. Instead the forces cause the stud to unscrew.
When the old stud is out, inspect the internal thread. If it appears rusty or damaged, clean up the thread by running the correct size tap through the threads as previously explained. Compare the new stud with the old one. The studs should be exactly the same thread size and the same length.
Check the vehicle's service manual to determine if the threads of the new stud should be coated. If the stud should be locked in place and not easily removed, you may need to use a threadlocking compound or threadsealing compound. Threadlocking compounds are on studs and other fasteners when vibration might cause them to unscrew. Thread sealants are used when a stud extends where liquids, such as oil or coolant, could get on the fastener.
Antiseize compound is used on the stud threads to prevent the stud from reacting with the metal on the internal threads. If this happens, the stud could stick or seize. Antiseize compound prevents this reaction and makes the stud easier to remove the next time.
After the new stud is properly coated, it can be installed. Start the stud by hand, making sure it enters the threads securely. Turn the stud in as far as possible by hand before using any tools. Then use two nuts as described earlier to drive the stud into the part. Use the depth measurement made on the old stud to be sure it is driven in the correct depth.

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Use a flat head screwdriver to pry open the plastic pieces that cover the screws. Using the same flat head screw driver, unscrew the large plastic screws holding the old seat in place. There are usually plastic nuts on the underside that you can hold on to while removing the screws. Remove the old seat. Clean the area where the screws were and dry thoroughly. If the new seat has an adhesive pad, remove the covering from the adhesive and put the seat in place. Thread the new screws through the holes and attach with the new nuts. If there aren't new nuts and screws, you can use the old ones, provided they weren't damaged during removal. Snap the caps covering the screws on the new seat in place. Be careful not to over tighten the screws! Since they're plastic, they can be easily damaged by a screwdriver!