Question about Leisure HOMEPRIDE Electric Fireplace Heater w/ Remote

3 Answers

My heat n glow fireplace comes on fine with all burners running but shuts off about 5 seconds later. it seems the sensor that detects a flame thinks the fire has not started and shuts down the gas. Is the ignitor also the flame detector?

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  • jim_lynch100 Nov 08, 2009

    I don't believe I have a vent problem or a gas valve problem. The control module has no connections to any sensors in the burning chamber. The system has an electronic ignition so there is not pilot. The only connection to the burning chamber is via the high voltage wire to ignite the gas so I am assuming they use this line as the flame detect also, this is a guess. The module blinks twice fast, which is a sign of the timeout. All the time the flame is on, the module is operating the ignitor.

    Any more thoughts?

    Jim

  • Dega Jan 08, 2013

    It's been a while since this was posted, but I am now having the same issue. Were you ever able to determine what the problem actually was? I checked the venting and cleaned everything. I put everything back together without the grate and ceramic log set to see things more clearly. When I turn on the switch, I can hear the gas valve open and then the igniter generates a spark across the two probes. The burner ignites and everything looks normal, except the igniter continues to spark. After about 5 seconds, the spark jumps from the left probe downward to the floor of the chamber instead of across to the other probe. After about 5 more seconds the whole thing shuts down. I also noticed that a wafer thin layer of top the of the ceramic insulator has flaked off and that there is also a little bit of rotational movement of the probe inside the insulator.

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You may have a few sensors, one may be a thermopile that energizes the pilot. It is a very thin but long bulb located in the pilot flame. Then you may have something called a thermopile which is also located in the pilot flame that energizes the main gas valve. It is a larger diameter bulb and will have metal wrapped wireg going to the gas valve. If the pilot stays on but the flame goes out under the logs, change your thermopile and look for a bad connection at the gas valve or switch. If both the main burner and the pilot goes out you may have a gas valve problem or a plugged vent pipe. If the flame just disappears it is most likely a gas valve. If the flame changes colors and lifts from the burner, that is a sign of a plugged vent. Good luck.

Posted on Nov 05, 2009

  • Chandler Ede
    Chandler Ede Nov 08, 2009

    Mike, open up the heater to get fresh air to it and run it. If the air intake has a blockage, the unit wioll run longer than it did. If the exhaust is blocked, you will smell the burnt products coming out. Not sure how to access your venting but I would have someone look into it very soon. Do not run the heater with it open.

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Therinnaiguy - Thanks for the response and I have a follow up comment adn question.

I'm having a similar problem with a Heat'n'Glo fireplace in a new house I just bought. Fireplace lights but goes out after 10-15 seconds .. and yes I think on mine the flames do go all blue and lift up as it extinguishes from right to left.

My fireplace has the Direct Spark Ignition (DSI) so there is no pilot light. Besides the igniter connecting to the DSI module below, there are not any other sensors connected (unless there well hidden or one is wrapped in the igniter).

The LED on the DSI module blinks fast when turned on, which indicated "Normal Operation. Call for Heat." Before all the flames go out I can hear the igniter try to relight a few more times.

Any additional thougths on the problems? What should I do to ensure that the vents are not plugged or anything?

Posted on Nov 06, 2009

  • Anonymous Nov 09, 2009

    Hi Therinnaiguy (and others with this problem) - Thanks for the reply! I cracked open the glass on my Heat'n'Glo fireplace, started it again, and it now stays lit indefeinitely. The flames are no longer all blue and do not "lift up."
    I didn't smell anything burning too strong, but at least I now know the problem is either with the intake or exhaust vents. I will check those or have them cleaned and then hopefully I'll finally have everything working again. Thanks again!

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Even though its electronic ignition (remote) it still lights a pilot we sell heat n glo's and i service all models never seen one with out a pilot, and the pilot usualy lights first to light the fire and remains a light to send fire signal to thermocouple interrupter block (which is at back of valve a brass coupling nut that has two wire goin into it), and is usually lighting when that beeping sound is going then when that stops you here the valve opens and flames light up so i would firstly check the thermocouple interrupter block and pilot assembly then maybe you're valve or module box, also if you are looking at this heater there is a manual to tell you what parts are in heater which i think you should read first considering its a gas heater you shouldn't be looking at it if you don't know about the pilot which always goes while fire on!

Posted on Nov 18, 2010

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WILL NOT LIGHT ALL 5 BURNNERS WILL ONLY LIGHT 2 THEN SHUTS OFF GOES TO LOCKDOWN


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There is a flame sensor failure.

Here is the ignition sequence for a furnace. This will help you understand what is happening/not happening.

Thermostat2.gif calls for heat.

draft inducer motor (DIM) starts drawing draft through heat exchanger.

Pressure switch detects proper operation of DIM, and sends signal to board to begin ignition.
(it detects negative pressure)

Ignitor starts ignition attempt and gas valve sends gas to burners.

Upon ignition, flame sensor detects flame and sends signal to board stopping ignition sequence and continuing gas flow for heat mode operation until thermostat is satisfied.

During this sequence the blower motor is brought on, and by using a series of temperature limit switches, the system assures that the unit is operating properly.
(If the blower is not operating, or the airflow is inadequate, the heat exchanger will overheat and trip one or more temp limit switches.)

There is also a "rollout" switch that detects improper flame pattern "rolling out" into the controls compartment.

Now, to apply that to your situation.

If the flame sensor does not sense flame, it shuts down the furnace to prevent a dangerouse gas build up.

With most modern glow coil ignition systems you have one of two failures.

1) the flame sensor is bad and needs to be replaced.

2) the control board is not proccesing the signal from the flame sensor and shuts the system down. In that case the board would need to be replaced.

There is a possibility that a temperature limit or roll out switch is breaking the curcuit, but that would be quite unusual to happen consistantly at three seconds.

Unless you have the ability and tools to test the snesor and board, the next step would be to replace the sensor first, and then the board if that does not fix it.

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The HSI (ignitor) has 2 wires, its like a cigeratte lighter, power is applied and it heats then glows red, the single wire you mention is the flame sensor, used by the control board (igntion module) to ensure the burner has lit or it shuts the power to the gas valve off but keeps the fan operating for a period of 1 hour till it resets.

It sounds like your ignitor is defective, it happens often, depending on your location, you may be able to purchase one, but I would advise having a service tech do it.

The manual for troubleshooting and repair can be found at this link:

http://www.staritepool.com/pdfs/MiniMaxNTServiceManual.pdf

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The first thing I would look for is a blockage in the gasline, or at the gas valve.

It sounds like you are not getting gas to the ignitor/burners. This would cause it to obviosly, not sense flame.

When a unit does not sense flame, it will shut of, and usually try again up to 5 times (depending on brand/model)

So here's what happens in that scenario.

Call for heat.
Inducer motor kicks on, the sensor detects the inducer motor is working, and the ignitor starts glowing/sparking (depending on type of ignitor)

It will then send gas through the gas valve and ignite.
If the flame sensor does not detect flame, the glow coil shuts down, the gas shuts off, the inducer shuts off and you get your error code.

(Some units will then send on the blower motor, and you have to cut power to reset.)

Do you have a copper line with natural gas?
If so, replace it with stainless steel or black iron.

Coper apearantly reacts with the aditives in natural gas and tends to form a gray ashy substance that builds up in the copper tubings walls and eventually cloggs gas valves.

At the inlet side of the gas valve, there should be a screen to catch such things.

Turn off the gas, turn of the power, and remove the gas line going to the gas valve. Look for anything clogging that area, also look for kinks in the gas line.

Remember to use a "flamable gas approved" pipe dope or thread tape when reinstalling the supply line.

Lets see what you find there and then we can continue the diagnostic if needed.

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