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I have an oil-fueled boiler for my forced hot water heat
system.Fromtime to time, and right now consistently, the boiler will
notignite toheat the water even though thermostats are calling for
heat.The pumpsall work--I can hear and feel them ''humming'' when they
comeon--but theboiler does not fire on unless I push the emergency
ignitionbutton, inwhich case it fires up immediately, heats the house
for a fewhours,but doesn't automatically keep firing up as needed. The
boilerwasserviced a couple years ago, and was cleaned by my boyfriend
lastyear.Any idea what the problem is?
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Combi-boiler-turn hot water tap on/off and the heating stops for 20secs ... hot watertakes priority over central heating so when you run the hot tap, heating is ... Yeah onmy worcester combi there is a diverter valve - it feeds either the heating or ...
Diverter valves switch heat between the hot water and the central heating. When youturn your hot tap on, the diverter valve temporarily shuts off the water supply ...
Jul 7, 2015 - ... Bathroom Suites, - Showers, - Wet Rooms, - Taps and Accessories, Information and ... Low water pressure can cause your boiler to turn itself off. ... boiler is not turning off, you aren't getting the amount of hot water you require. ... If there is air in your central heating system, then your boiler may shut down.
Hot water is gravity fed through your pipes. When you turn the faucet on the water will flow through the pipes. If your hot water heater is natural gas driven relight the pilot. Same if oil fueled. If electrical, check fuse to see if it has blown or the circuit breaker has tripped. If either has tripped, replace it and if it blows again the heater has a serious failure, you might need to buy a new one. If pilot won't light on gas unit, try relighting after 5 minutes, could be a bad thermocouple.
Hi Steve, I am not a plumber but have done a lot of DIY on my own heating system with Worcester Bosch combi boiler! I believe that you can have the hot water on without the heating system filled, just turn all the settings as for summer use and the thermostat right down so the heating is forced to stay off!
I have a couple of thoughts. You may have air in the boiler water circuit at the loop that feeds the tank. You'll have to find the vent in the loop to get it out. Second, the automatic valve that opens for hot water may not be opening fully. Have you felt both the boiler water lines that go in and out of the tank? If the water going in is hot and the line out is very cold you have very little boiler water going through the loop. Make sure the isolation valves on the loop are open. Is your boiler full of water? If the boiler loop lines are hot going in and coming out, the tank is full of rust or debris and no water can get to the fins on the internal tubing to pick up heat. If that's the case there is no repair and its time to get a new tank. Hope this helps good luck.
For clarity, a Furnace produces HOT AIR for heat while a boiler produces HOT WATER for heat. Just remember...boil = water. You said your "furnace" does not produce hot water for a shower and because furnaces do not product hot water unless they have some model that do???? Usually people with a furnace have a seperate hot water heater. People with boilers though can produce hot water for use as both their sinks/showers hot water and their heat (by heating water that goes through baseboards) in their house. I don't believe any furnaces produce hot water most of the time a furnace just produces hot air for heating. So figure out what you first have.
Having said that, I'll assume you have a boiler like I do and my Weil McClean(sp?) stopped working a while back and wasn't turning on to "boil" any water. I took apart the burner and there is a light sensing photo resistor as part of the controls. If this phto resistor goes bad, the boiler will not start. The resister is cheap, I think it was $8 but you have to know what you're doing to change it. So you may be better to call someone who can work on such equipment.
Boiler's themselves are not overly complex. Home heating oil is the same diesel fuel that you can buy in a gas station only the government has "oil" companies put a RED die in home heating fuel which is usually cheaper then Diesel fuel because diesel fuel is taxed to death. The reason they do that is so that if you try putting RED tinted home heating fuel in your truck and you get pulled over (because you're a trucker with and 18 wheeler and they typically do inspections of these trucks) you will be a huge fine if they see you're running home heating fuel and NOT paying your taxed by purchasing Diesel fuel. A little bit of background so you know the fuel you are dealing with here. So it's dieslel fuel without the tax you run in your boiler. Gasoline on the other hand is VERY explosive as you know, but diesel fuel (if you're ever tried to light it) takes some coaxing to get lit. When it's cold out, diesel fuel is very hard to light and that's why trucks use glow plugs. You don't need those in your home though.
But because diesel fuel/home heating oil is hard to light, it's sprayed as a msit into your boiler, so that it can light more easily.
But because it is a fuel, you should know what you're doing when messing with it. FInd out what you have, and then have someone work on the issue if you haven't already. I'm guessing you have had it fixed by now?
The tank rusting itself shut is almost an impossibility due to pressure. I would be inclined to believe that the controller is starting to fail and water that was way too hot entered the system and caused and overpressure issue that made the leak, When the pressure and temp dropped, the problem subsided. According to some of the threads that I have found on this, Amtrol is pretty generous about replacing the defective parts even when they dont have to. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/water-heaters/335226-amtrol-boilermate-problem.html
Hi,
I hate to tell you this but you probably have a leak in the casting of the boiler...it is very slow... therefore the water will evaporate as long as it is hot and you do not see the water...but if you let it cool , not only will the casting shrink and open the hole a bit, but none of the water evaporates....
After 35 years it is time to replace that boiler...
If you are using more than one heat source you will have 1 more pump than the heat source pumps
Main pump = SYSTEM pump pumps through the indirect hot water system and back into itself. This is the system loop.
The other two boilers tee into this loop upstream of the indirect tank, downstream of the SYSTEM pump.
The cold water return to each boiler tees into the system loop next to and upstream of where the hot water for that boiler tees into the system the loop.
The oil boiler will have its own pump on its return line from the sytem loop and the solid fuel boiler will have its own pump. When any boiler fires, it turns on its own pump AND the system pump.
If you want a drawing email me [email protected] send a fax number and I'll fax you a drawing.
not an engineer but maybe a heating compant,, it sounds like you have a relay that has gone bad, you have what we call a winter summer system your domestic water comes from a tank inside the boiler, you might want to think about splitting the system to save you some money in the long run, seperate the water heater from the boiler so you only heat up in the winter, right now you are heating the system that heats your house to get 30 or 40 gals of domestic hot water, it would cost you less by seperating them
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