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I believe the tub of my Maytag pavt244aww washer has siezed. When the machine hits the spin cycle, the motor starts humming/whinning, there is a faint burning rubber smell, then the motor cuts out before it burns out. Any advice would help.
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Katie, I'm and owner that knows the machine very well. If you are someone has some basic skills you can repair the machine. It will come down to how much down time you can tolerate. What I think is the issue is that the Upper One-Way bearing is seized and when the machine enters into spin cycle of the selected wash cycle the washer can't spin the wash basket. The Control Board tries to enter the spin cycle over and over again.There is no software routine in the Control Board to sense this and the machine keeps trying execute the spin cycle of that wash cycle......Timer never counts down..... Place that wash load in a Spin Only cycle.If my diagnosis is correct then the machine will do the same thing never count down on the LED display in the Spin Only cycle. All these machine are ready for a Tub Seal replacement and I can direct most owners thru the process.The cost is in the area of $60 for Tub Seal, ****** O-Ring and Outer Tub bearings.If you need to replace the Clutch Pulley around $80 additional.If you are the original owner I'm sure you have been thru that. Here is a link to replacing the Tub Seal and Outer Tub bearings.See if this is a direction you want to go.FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement
Here is a link to what I believe is your issue.........it just took me a long time to extract info from the owner on the failure.[FIXED] Maytag Neptune, Timer Problem Maybe a FIXYA tech can jump in and add what they think might be the issue and a troubleshooting/repair path to follow. You can make the machine last for a long time............way beyond the 3.5 yr. to 6 yr. point of most failures.........but each owner has to decide their course of action. I go by dh1200s on most washer DIY forums including this forum.
Check to see if your water pump is spinning. It could be seized up and the burning smell could be the belt spinning on the seized pulley. Good luck Friend.
The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle.Get the spin bearing and motor checked.Replace the faulty.You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this
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Its the clutch ,And it sounds like it time for a new washer,the clutch is expensive and washer are cheap try a second hand store that sale scratched or almost new machines
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.
Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.
Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.
Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.
Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.
Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.
Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.
TURN THE PULLEY ON THE BOTTOM. ONE DIRECTION WILL CAUSE THE PULLEY TO TRAVEL UP AND RELEASE THE BRAKE, CAUSING THE TUB TO SPIN. TURN IT THE OTHER WAY AND THAT SHOULD BE YOUR AGITATION. YOU SHOULD HEAR THE TRANSMISSION CLUNK AS THE GEARING CHANGES DIRECTION TO GE THE AGITATION ARC. IF NO NOISE IS HEARD, YOU HAVE AN INTERNAL PROBLEM WITH THE TRANSMISSION.
i believe i can help you,,but washers dont agitate in the spin cycle,,i believe you ment it wont wring or spin in the spin cycle..your lid switch is defective,,replace,,if need be i can talk you though,,onthejob
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