Blowing fuses on the lidswitch asembly so I replaced

I have no idea what your question is, what is a fuseson?
Please repost with more details

are the terminals the right way. red positive black negative. also there should be a fuse in line quite close to the battery check it

at first i just bypass the heater core assem. go from the thermm. housing to the head nipple. if you put your heat setting to hi setting all your coolant will pour out that nipple with no hose. if you drive like that BOOM! engene blows the heater hose assembly replacement for that is $90+tax and thats bs. ireplaced mine with 2 tees it works great! it runs cooler than it ever has and the heater works when you need it. that assembley has a thermal crossover valve in it and i find no reason for it other than the heater may work a couple min. sooner.And or the coolant that ain't worth $90bucks+tax to me.i can wait a couple min, longer for the heater to work i used the tees to maintain water flow through the head nipple back to the rad,when heater is not in use. incase that was the purpous of the thermal valve crossover. i could find no one who could tell me its intened purpous at any parts store or even the GM dealership.

that means you have a dead short, remove dome lite asembly and disconect, then place a new fuse... did not blow, ok you need a new dome lite assembly good luck

The central control unit does not detect water entering the machine 30 seconds after the water valves are opened or the pressure switch did not trip 8 minutes after the flow meter detected 10.5 gallons of water passing through it. The problem is therefore either the flow meter, water inlet valves, or the pressure switch.

Check the level of water inside the tub when the error code flashes. The pressure has not tripped if there's enough water inside the tub. Verify the condition of the pressure switch hose and the pressure switch itself. Make sure the hose is not kinked or clogged. Disconnect the hose from the switch then blow air forcefully down the hose and then the switch. You should hear the switch click when blowing air into it. Replace the switch if the problem persists.

The problem is in the water inlet valves if there's no water at all that has entered the tub. Replace the valve assembly if that is the case. But if there's some water that has entered the tub, then the problem is in the flow meter. Check to make sure that the flow meter pinwheel is oriented in the vertical position. Remove the flow meter and blow air through it to free the pinwheel from possible stuck up. Replace the flow meter if the pinwheel is broken or frozen.

your blend door on the heater assembly is bad, its under the dash

there is a none problem at fuel pump housing we just had 92 with same problem it finally started blowing engine fuse but were the wiring goes thro the top of the fuel pump hanger assembly there are insulators and they come apart allowing the fuel pump current to dead short at hanger asembly you may want to investigate closer hope this helps we had his ecm sent out for rebuild also sounds the same

Possible bad pressure switch. Turn unit on and jump out 2 wires at a time (3 wires go to it). See if any of your combinations get unit running (one of them will cause water valve to open); if so then that is your problem. Thanks, please leave feedback or contact me again for more info if you need it.

BAD LIDSWITCH OR THE SCREWS ON THE LEFT SIDE HINGE ARE LOOSE CAUSING THE LID TO BOW UP APPLY PRESSURE ON THE LID TO GET IT TO START SPINNING IF IT DOES TIGHTEN THE SCREWS ON THE HINGE IF IT DOESN'T THE LIDSWITCH NEEDS TO BE REPLACED

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NO dont try a 3 amp fuse.It is made to BLOW if there is a problem. That sub is not worth fixing, JUNK it. There are a lot of problems with it. Such as heating up and melting the board witch could cause fires. Thats what happened to mine. Like I said JUNK it and buy a different one.