I need instructions on how to use and program a nutone door chime. Mine is a musical style for front door. I can change the chime to many different sounds, but have no instructions on how to use or program anything on it. Can someone please help me? The numbers on the controller that is located under the chime box is listed like Nutone Scovill 515N.

AC is likely to be the alternating current supply from the transformer.

I suspect two pairs of AC terminals are provided to allow one of two different chimes to be selected with one pair and the common being used for the 4 chime pattern and the other pair and common used for the 8 chime pattern.

The front, side and rear terminals are self explanatory connections from each bell-push with the supply (or return) or other wire from each bell push connected to the COM or common.

The manufacturer's website doesn't feature a wiring diagram though might send you an instruction book on demand. The site does include a note specifying only 18 gauge wire is to be used...

There is a little "diode" that should have been provided as part of the unit...it's a little wire with a B-B-sized circuit in the middle that has to be connected to the push-button at the door. This "extends" the circuit from the button to the chime unit for the full 8-notes. Hopefully you still have that part (I just about threw out mine before I read the instruction manual thoroughly. My diode just "shorted" after I power-washed my house...and I am in search of that particular part. I contacted Heath Zenith...hopefully they will give me a solution on how to get only that part. In any case, you need that diode to get the chime to play correctly.

The chimes have jumper plugs to select the preset songs.

You CANNOT load your own like cell phones allow.

In my 2008 Cobalt, the front speaker in the driver door went inoperative - no turn signal noise, no warning chimes for door open with key in, seatbelt chime, low fuel chime, and of course, no music. All of those sounds come through the speaker. I switched the driver door speaker and the passenger door speaker, and now I have all of those noises back.

If you have manual roll down windows, you'll have to buy a special tool to remove a little clip that's behind the roller handle. This tool was included in a kit for about $7 that I bought at Harbor Frieght, but you might be able to find the kit at other auto parts stores. Google "removing window crank" and you should be able to locate a video that shows how to get it off.

Anyway, I switched the speakers and now we just don't have music coming out of the passenger door speaker, but at least we have all of the warning chimes and turn signal clicking noise again.

The dealer wanted almost $200 for a new speaker and to replace it (labor). Rediculous.

I couldn't find a manual for the LR2982, so I'll give a general description of how to wire a door chime. Most chimes have 3 contacts. F (Front), R (Rear) and C (Common). Some have just two contacts. If your chime has more than 3 contacts do _not_ follow these instructions.

Inside the junction box on the wall where the chime will be mounted, you should have at least 2 cables (usually brown) each, with at least two wires (usually red and white) each. One of those cables goes to the transformer and the other cable goes to the door button.

The beauty of it is that since it's only 24 volts or less and _polarity_ doesn't matter, you don't need to know which cable goes where for a _single_ door button scenario.

For _single_ door button wiring, pick a wire (say the red) from one cable (doesn't matter which cable) and connect it to the "C" contact on the chime. Pick a wire (say the red) from the _other_ cable and connect it to the "F" contact on the chime (if the chime has 3 contacts). If the chime only has 2 contacts connect it to the only contact that is left.

Then all one needs to do is twist the 2 remaining wires together (both white) and cap them off with a wire nut.

If your junction box for the chime has 3 cables in it, the extra cable goes to a rear door button. In that case you _do_ need to know which cable goes to the _transformer_. You can pick up a cheapo voltmeter for about $10 just about anywhere. The cable that reads anywhere from 16 to 24 volts AC between the red and the white wires is the cable that goes to the transformer.

Make sure one of those wires from the transformer goes to the "C" contact (pick one, say the red). Now you know the 2 remaining cables go to the front and rear door buttons. For now, just connect a red from one of the remaining cables to the "F" and one red from the other remaining cable to the "R". Then just twist the 3 remaining white wires (including the white wire from the transformer) together and cap them with a wire nut.

If the rear chime sounds when the front door button is pushed, just swap the wires on "F" with the "R"contacts..

Make sure you are applying the correct voltage to the primary windings. what is the voltage you are applying?

i think the third wire is probably ground(green). if that is the case, just connect white white, black black or black .red

If you cant fix it, just buy a new one, they are cheap $15.
Basically it's a magnetic coil that moves a metal bar that strikes a bell.
They run on 24 volts AC and are powered by a transformer. All parts are available at Lowes or Home Depot or even your local hardware store.

Loss of range between bell and presser

2000 Mazda 626
Note: Make SURE the battery is new.
Instructions for programming ONE keyless remote fob.
1. Open the driver’s door & leave open.
2. Insert the key in the ignition.
3. Turn the key to the on and off position 3 times.
4. Remove the key from the ignition.
5. After door open chime stops, press the door open button 3 times.
6. After chime, press any fob key twice.
7. After second chime, press any fob key twice again.
8. After third chime, press any fob key twice again.
9. Press the door open button once.
10. The car should give another acknowledgement chime.
11. Test key fob.
This DOES work. I just programmed mine successfully today, three hours ago.