Yes. This fuse is replaceable, but, you will heed to De-solder the contacts, in order to remove the damaged fuse. this can be very challenging. If you are not an avid user of a soldering iron, i would just simply replace the board. If the soldering is not done correctly, this will cause the board to short, causing a spark.
I would , also, verify that the fuse is available for a non technician to purchase. Most vital components will not be available for purchase, if the purchaser is not a certified tech.
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I had the same problem. I did replace the bad fuse on the pcb however, the refrigerator section is not cooling. Well, there's no air coming out the vent. Freezer section is working fine, so it can't be the fan? Please help!
I have the exact same problem? Fridge area not cooling, venting, but lights are on. Freezer works fine. If you find out the solution PLEASE let me know as well! I'M A LITTLE DESPERATE WITHOUT A FRIDGE!
I had the same problem and just found out for my frig what the problem was. Everything was working except the cooling for the frig. I had too many things in the freezer blocking the air flow from going back up to cool the frig. I found this sight http://www.youserguide.com/wiki/LG_LFC23... that showed a page from the manual how the frig works and what are the proper settings to insure the frig works properly. Be sure to clean any water like I had from ice bags. I waited a little while and hooray, it is working. Hope this helps.
My wife and I came home last night to a dead fridge. It's also an LG, only three years old. After reading some of the comments here, and having some experience in troubleshooting electrical issues, I pulled the cover off the back and found that it was in fact, a dead fuse, just as some of you have found. Here's what I did. I wanted a solution that would be quick, easy and inexpensive, and maybe a little steam-punk. So I went down to Radio Shack, and bought a replacement fuse, a fuse holder (basically a fusible link), a couple of alligator clips, a cheap soldering iron, flux and solder. I soldered the alligator clips to the fusible link, then carefully attached the clips to the wires that hold the blown fuse to the motherboard. I replaced the cover, plugged it in, and voila, worked like a charm.
Thanks to everyone who contributed here with their own solutions to this issue, as your comments gave me the info and inspiration to tackle the issue myself, and save a few hundred bucks in the process.
Great solution, my 3 year old frig is back up and running, thanks. And I told my husband how to fix it and he thinks I'm super smart!!
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This just happened to me yesterday. Woke up and my fridge was dead! Cost $80 for the LG repair guy to tell me the fuse blew and I need a new Main Power board. It would take 2 days for the part to come in and it would cost another $200 on top of what I already paid!!! What!!!
Decided to buy the fuse (3 for $4.99) and went to a computer store and had them sauder the fuse on ($15). Total repair $20.99. A lot less than what they wanted to steal from me and my fridge was running 4 hours after the repair guy left.
What a joke... and how environmentally conscious... a blown fuse, throw the whole thing out... come on LG.
Thank you thank you- you saved me alot of time and $$$.I removed my circuit board and took it to a TV repair guy. He replaced the glass fuse with a ceramic one, said they don't blow as easy, but warned me it would blow again immediatedly because the first one would not have blown if there wasn't another problem. I paid my $15, brought it home, hooked the board back up, said a prayer and plugged her in.It's now been happily humming for 3hrs and I'm considering declaring success and load the food back in.
This worked great. I just took the board an electronics repair store and for $25.00 my fridge was running again.
Shame on you LG
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I just had the same problem and reading the previous answers was very helpful. However, I may have come up with an even better and cheaper solution. After carefully disconnecting the circuit board I showed it to a local electronics supply store. They sold me a a $2.50 piggyback clip that clips on to the old blown fuse on its one side and presents two new clips for a new fuse on the other. It worked perfectly along with a new 40 cent fuse. No soldering necessary and super cheap!
Solution 7 was the best for me! My less than 2 year old fridge is the LG LSC27910 as well. Woke up and fridge was dead; outlet was fine. If not for this forum, I surely would have overpaid for a repair man to come out and look at it for me... and probably would have lost my food waiting.
For anyone wondering (since I was looking for it), the motherboard is located beneath the panel on the top of the fridge. Fortunately, the blown fuse was the removable one, not the soldered in one. I had a hard time finding a replacement though, it is a 15A 250V glass fuse. I checked 2 RadioShacks, an appliance repair shop, an appliance parts shop, and called PepBoys. The closest I found was at Radioshack; they only sell that rating fuse in ceramic - which I bought and desperately put in only to save my food ($2.99 for 4). I will be ordering the glass fuses however, since I want to keep what's supposed to be in there and am not sure of the consequences of using ceramic vs. glass.
Thanks!!
I just made this repair as well, went to RadioShack and purchased the 10A 250V ceramic fuse (pack of 4 for 2.99), and a 250V 20A rated fuse holder with wire (also 2.99), and 2 wire connectors with flat blade ends, attached the flat blade connectors to the fuse holder wire (crimped), slightly dremeled the blade ends to have a slot down the middle, slid the slotted blades over the soldered fuse ends and with a few dabs of solder held them in place, left the old burnt fuse in place and essentially routed around it with the new (and replaceable) fuse/fuseholder. Complete repair was easy, old fuse damage on the board was obvious and it was an idiotic design to make them irreplaceable, so it was not a design worth my $200 of admiration to repair/replace. I believe the 9A fuse degrades over about 2 yrs of run time, since the system is working perfectly with no other changes. Thanks for the words on this solution. I tried very hard to find a clip in option and gave up after trying 5 different stores.
Anyway, very happy with the easy detection and quick/cheap fix. Thanks all!
This was very helpful. I found the ceramic fuse (made for microwaves, I'm told) at Radio Shack, and although they didn't have the "piggyback" fuse clip, they had automobile in-line fuse holder. Basically a little plastic tube that snaps together with the fuse in the middle and about 4" of insulated wire coming out either end. I think it was $1.29 (the fuse is 1 1/4" x 1/4", also the dimension on the fuse holder.) A four-pack of ceramic, 250v x 15amp fuses ran another $1.29.
I have very dodgy soldering skills, so I bought a new, small soldering iron that came with some solder and a stand $10.99. ( I also got a solder removal bulb, which I would have been okay without, but now I have one $3.00). Basically, I stripped about 1/4" inch from each wire. Put a fuse inside the holder, got the wires coated with solder, then put a bit of solder on the old holder (I didn't take the old fuse out.) I made sure there was a path for the insulated wires to run and the fuse holder to lay on the circuit board. (The holder is plastic, so obvioiusly insulated.) Then soldered the two wire ends to the old end of the fuse holder. Put the mother board back in. Plugged everying thing into the mother board. (There are no two plugs the same, but there are a lot of them, so I marked them by number with a sharpie, both on the plug and on the board receptor. Fridge has been running fine for a whole day, there are three extra fuses taped to the back, so if I blow another one, it's just open the new fuse holder, pop out the old, pop in the new. The whole repair took about an hour, including the time at Radio Shack, and cost under $20.00, including a new soldering iron. I figured if I messed it up, it was only going to cost me what it would have in the first place, the $230 for a new mother board. (Plus $100 for a service call and the wait for the part. This way, the ice trays didn't even thaw. Thanks for the advice, everyone!
I used small Vise grips to hold the wires while I "tinned them", then needle-nose plyers to hold them in place while I soldered them.
You guys know to do all of this with the fridge unplugged, and the motherboard removed, right?
Thanks to all who have posted here, I'm sure you guys saved me about 300 bucks. My wife and I woke up at 6:30 am to a completely dead fridge - LG LDC22720ST. Nothing - the interior lights wouldn't even come on. Calls to LG; asked "customer support" to transfer me to "technical support" to help me troubleshoot this thing. But no, technical support only talks to technicians. After work, I found this forum on the web, and ended up doing almost *exactly* what Ubertard did (well, ok, I didn't bother to mark the plugs) and am now up and running. No thanks to LG. But I do really appreciate the help of this forum.
Thank You Everyone!!! Last night our frig LFC23760 died! found these solutions and my husband and I went to 2 different Radio Shacks to try and find the fuses and fuse holder. We found the ceramic fastt acting 15-amp 250-vlt 4 pack fuses and had to get the heavy-duty inline fuse holder 20A, no smaller ones but it still worked. Believe me if I can do this anyone can. I made sure the holes in the board were clean from old solder, took the fuse holder and cut out wires and twisted together in order for it to fit through holes but snug. taped the holder against the board so it wouldn't move while i flipped the board over to solder. bent the wires towards the board wires a little bit to be sure of contact and solder it in place. I put in the fuse and we crossed out fingers. YEAH!!! plugged everything back in and plugged in the frig. All lights and cooling systems for frig and freezer worked. LET'S SEE HOW LONG THIS LASTS NOW. Total for everything $6.50.
Went to Radioshack, bought 250 volt 15 amp ceramic fuse, Fuse holder 1 1/4" x 1/4" and mini 1-1/4" alligator clips. I broke the glass tube, removed the glass and clipped the fuse holder to the metal ends. No soldering, cost less than $10. 
Went to Radioshack, bought 250 volt 15 amp ceramic fuse, Fuse holder 1 1/4" x 1/4" and mini 1-1/4" alligator clips. I broke the glass tube, removed the glass and clipped the fuse holder to the metal ends. No soldering, cost less than $10. 
Just did the same thing but used a fuse holder out of my junk box. A bakalite holder with a screw on cap.
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I have the same issue - along with ALOT of other people I've seen
posting on the internet. Even though it's a 20 cent fuse, you have to
replace the ENTIRE $200 control board. I say this is a defect
(intentional?) built in to happen exactly 13 months after purchase.
Contacting LG
Phone: (800) 243-0000
Mail:
USA Corporate Headquarters
1000 Sylvan Avenue
Englewood Cliffs, NJ 07632
There are two fuses in the corner. One that is soldered and another that just pops out, like a fuse in your car. It said it is a 15amp and I am going to try to go buy one at Radio Shack. It is clearly blown and that is why I woke up to my LSC27910tt refrigerator having no power. When I called LG ("Looking Gullable") they wanted to sell me a new board for about $232. This regrigerator is about 19 months old. Oh, and there are no authorized service providers for Las Vegas--go figure! I won't buy another LG (Looking Gullable) product ever again....... Gullable in Vegas
Solution 7 was the best for me! My 2 year old fridge is the LG LSC27910 as well. Woke up and fridge was dead; outlet was fine. If not for this forum, I surely would have overpaid for a repair man to come out and look at it for me... and probably would have lost my food waiting.
For anyone wondering (since I was looking for it), the motherboard is located beneath the panel on the top of the fridge. Fortunately, the blown fuse was the removable one, not the soldered in one. I had a hard time finding a replacement though, a 15A 250V glass fuse. I checked 2 RadioShacks, an appliance repair shop, an appliance parts shop, and called PepBoys. Radioshack only sells that rating fuse in ceramic - which I bought and desperately put in only to save my food ($2.99 for 4). I will be ordering the glass fuses however, since I want to keep what's supposed to be in there and am not sure of the consequences of using ceramic vs. glass.
Thanks!!
THANKS JOHN KNORR!
My LG also died unexpectedly ! I read your solution....checked the TOP of the fridge for the access panel (which warns we should not touch) opened it up and saw the blown 15 amp 250V fuse....went to three different stores including Radio Shack....nobody had one, except Miners Hardware had the ceramic /microwave version.....I bought it popped it in and WALLLLLLA ....it works! Promptly called the tech. to cancel the service call and saved about $300.00 easy!
Thanks for your post it helped me out! By the way my 1 year warranty expired just a few weeks ago and the best LG had to offer me in terms of service was a "SORRY"....
Told them I would post my dissatisfaction on Face Book !!
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I had the same problem I'm a real novice but soldered a new fuse in. the refrigerator is now working. This is definitely planned obsolescence. As a friend of mine said.. "lets see the fuse is there to protect the MoB right? But if the fuse blows you have to replace the MoB????? Hmmmm" Right. Whatever....
Must replace the mother board, cant do the fuse only. LG is aware of this problem, sad how they make their money this way...
I am a owner of a home appliance repair service and have done this repair several times for my customers. I charge them the service call and $60 for my fuse kit and time soldering, saves them a lot of money and I show them how to replace the fuse themselves in the future.
I DO NOT RECOMMEND using alligator clips or anything like that. You need a better connection than that, I only recommend soldering onto the posts of the old fuse. Just my 2 cents :)
Where are you located ?
Sure prefer to have a professional if possible.
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I just had Radio Shack fabricate a piggyback fuse holder, as described here. The didn't see one but easy enough to make with more common parts. Now I'm back in business and no soldering if I need to replace fuse again. My fuse was blown but visually you couldn't tell because it burned through inside the end of the cap. Email if anyone wants macro before after pics of the radio shack $10 fix. [email protected]
I woke up to my LG LFC23760ST not working. The interior light and the digital thermometer were off. I tested the electrical outlet by plugging in a phone charger. Thanks to the great suggestions here I went to my local electronics store and purchased a fuse and a fuse holder.
I left the blown fuse intact and I soldered a new fuse holder to each side of it. I was unable to find a 9 amp 250V fuse, so I used an 8amp 250V. I used fact acting fuses. I also taped 2 extra fuses to the back of the fridge incase this happens again.
In the image you can see that I have soldered the red wire to each side of the blown fuse.
I had the same issue and called LG. They wanted to charge 300 to change mother board. Told them that it was weird that I had to change mother board to replace the fuse and as to why the fuse was soldered instead of easier way to just change the fuse. I also mentioned that many ppl had this issue and that LG had to do something about it and took the conversation to HQ. They made note of my complaint and just said that there was not many complaints about this so they don't plan to do anything about this. Also told them that many ppl are not calling because of the easy fix mentioned here. Please do call LG to register your complaint. they get away with this just because ppl don't complaint. Pretty sure lot of them would have spent 300 to fix this. Just don't understand this fuse solder design. I think this is going to be common among all LG appliance. Not buying LG anymore.
Thanks for details vidoe, retiredman! Followed your instruction and I fixed my dead LG Refrigerator in 2 hours.
Amen, all you people,
saw the dead fuse but assumed it meant the board shorted. Thought what have I got to lose, put in new fuse, been working ever since. This is a case of LGs engineered failure. THANKS AGAIN ALL!
Zimmy"
SOURCE: LG Frig LFC23760ST 3 Door French Refrigerator : No power!
LG LFC23760ST
I recorded a 2 part movie clip on how I repaired the blown fuses on my LG refrig's circuit board.
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SOURCE: burned our fuse in circuit board
it is a 250V 15 amp. clip the fuse off the wire, close, and solider in a new one. Terrible design. LG should have to replace free or be sued !
SOURCE: the fuse in my LG refrigerator burned out and i
Radio Shak had it. I just did the same thing with mine and figured id try and give it a go myself. Turned out, $20 at Radioshak for a solder gun, fuse holder, new fuse and an hour of my time was worth it.
The difference between a "Fast acting" and "Slow burn" (also known as Time-Delay fuse) is one is for a resistive load, and the other an inductive load. Resistive loads are like lights and circuit boards, where the amperage is relatively constant. Inductive loads (time-delay) are motors, things that require a large in-rush current to get moving like the compressor on your fridge. Hope this helps.
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I ended up going to an electrical supply store and buying a new fuse. I then took the board to a laptop repair shop and had them solder in the new fuse. This repair cost just over $40 was done over 5 months ago. Havent had a problem since.
I've an LG refrigerator, model #: LFC23760SB. The main circuit board protection is a standard 8 Amp, 250 VAC fuse. I purchased 1 for $1.58+$8 shipping from Mouser.com. Buss Fuse part #: 0315008.HXP. This is an axial fuss. Which means that it comes with the leads @ both ends. A person familiar with soldering can easily remove the blown fuse, & replace it with the before mentioned Buss fuse.
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