Stripped gears the gears that connect the drive pulley shaft to the chain sprocket shaft are stripped. Where can I get cheap parts?

check for a roll pin in the gear or shaft that has sheared off
check that the square end of the drive shaft is not rounded off or that the square drive in the gear is in fact locking on the drive shaft and not turning from worn out

I think you need to replace the drive gear. look inside the main housing. if you see white plastic shavings that would confirm the gears are stripped.

kits are available for under $25.00. don't buy the one with just the gears, get the new shaft sprocket etc.

Not a difficult repair. However, be sure to follow the instructions carefully. the position of the chain & sprocket when you put it back together do matter.

Good Luck

Steve

This could be a few things:
1) Your clutch plates may have worn out so that even when the bike is in gear, it will just rev, but no power will be transmitted to the drive shaft (smaller front chain sprocket is the driving gear, larger rear sprocket on the back wheel is the driven gear)
2) The front chain drive sprocket has come off under the cover on the motor - if the chain is really slack, have a look.
3) The front chain drive sprocket SHAFT has sheared. (basically, meaning that the shaft has broken into two parts as it couldn't handle the drive power (torque) being delivered through it to the chain drive) With the motor on, listen for grinding noises internally
when you rev, from the vicinity of the front chain drive cover. If its rough and grindy, the shaft may be sheared. Then with the motor off, take the cover off and leverage the small chain drive sprocket away from the motor with a screwdriver, and see if the shaft can just be pulled out of its sealed opening. Unfortunately with these bikes, the metals used in drive shafts and motors are not always heat-treated or hardened to the standard they should be, so shearing and premature failure can happen.
4) The gearbox or something in it has blown, unfortunately for the same reason above, quality related.
Its fair to say that these great little bikes are here for a good time, but not for a long time.

I wasn't familiar with your saw but I looked at the parts diagram for it in the link below thinking there may be a replaceable drive pin or something like it that would possibly have sheared.
http://www.masterparts.net/111409-01.html
I didn't see any. That would indicate that the sprocket may be stripped out on the inside and would require replacement, or, that there is something stripped inside the gearcase. If you look at the diagram, the motor shaft is parallel with the handle. So to drive the sprocket gear that drives the chain, they use gears inside the housing to turn the sprocket that's at a right angle to the motor shaft. Do you follow me? It would appear from the parts diagram that if it is those internal gears, that it would require replacement of the whole motor/gear assembly ...... probably as expensive as a whole new saw!

The reason that the sprocket turns without the chain on is that there is evidently enough friction between the shaft that the sprocket mounts on, and, the sprocket. But not enough of a connection to drive the chain.

To check further, leave the saw unplugged, and use your finger to try to turn the sprocket. If it turns by hand like that, it would indicate that something is stripped out as I said. To see if it is the sprocket, remove the "Retaining Ring, 5/16" that is shown in the diagram, and inspect the inside of the sprocket. If that appears good, then it would be an internal problem and probably not worth fixing.
Good luck!
Ed

This machine has a fairly simple chain drive to the wheel axle shaft, there is a sprocket on the shaft itself, this may have started to move on the shaft, the only answer here is to strip the gearbox, once the box is away from the engine and sundry parts it is just a matter of removing 30 or so screws to split the box, it is a grase filled box so there is no need to drain.

1. Remove the fan and generator V belt:



2. TIMING CHAIN (2az-FE Engine):
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
Drain the engine oil.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cable
Hood Right-side front wheel Engine under covers Right-side fender apron seal Front exhaust pipe Engine moving control rod and bracket Right-side engine mounting stay and bracket Accessory drive belt Engine appearance cover Engine wire Alternator Power steering pump, leave the hoses connected Ignition coils Ventilation hoses Cylinder head cover Turn the crankshaft pulley to set the No. 1 cylinder to TDC compression. Align the groove on the pulley with the timing mark -0- on the front cover. Remove the crankshaft pulley as follows:

1. TMC made: Use Special Tool 09213-54015 to hold the pulley to loosen the bolt. Use Special Tool 09950-50013 to remove the bolt and pulley.

2. TMMK made: Use Special Tool 09960-10010 to hold the pulley to remove the bolt. Use Special Tool 09950-40011 to remove the crankshaft pulley


Fig. Removing the crankshaft pulley-TMC-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine


Fig. Removing the crankshaft pulley-TMMK-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine


Remove or disconnect the following:
Crankshaft position sensor Lower oil pan No. 1 chain tensioner Accessory drive belt tensioner

Support the engine with a suitable engine lifting device.

Remove or disconnect the following:
Engine mounting insulators Right-side engine mounting bracket Stud bolt for the accessory drive belt tensioner from the block Front cover mounting bolts and nuts Front cover Crankshaft position sensor plate Timing chain tensioner slipper Timing chain vibration damper Timing chain Crankshaft timing sprocket

• Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise by 90°, and align an adjusting hole of the oil pump driven sprocket with the groove of the oil pump.

Fig. Align the adjusting hole of the oil pump drive sprocket with the oil pump groove-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine


Fig. Insert a bar to lock the sprocket in position-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine
Put a bar in the adjusting hole of the oil pump driven sprocket to temporarily lock the sprocket in position. Remove the nut.


Remove the bolt, chain tensioner and spring.


Remove the chain tensioner, oil pump sprocket and No. 2 timing chain.


To install:
Set the crankshaft key into the left horizontal position. Turn the cutout of the drive shaft to the top

Fig. Align the crankshaft key and drive shaft cutout as shown for installation-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine
Align the yellow colored links with the timing marks of the sprocket as shown in the illustration.

Insert the sprockets with chain to the crankshaft and oil pump shaft.

Temporarily tighten the oil pump driven sprocket with the nut.

Insert the damper spring into the adjusting hole, and install the chain tensioner plate with the nut. Tighten to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).

Align the adjusting hole of the oil pump driven sprocket with the groove of the oil pump.

Put a bar in the adjusting hole of the oil pump driven sprocket to temporarily lock the sprocket in position. Tighten the nut to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).

Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise by 90°, and align the crankshaft key to the top.

Install the timing chain vibration damper. Tighten to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm).

Align the timing marks of the camshaft timing sprockets and bearing caps.

Using the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the crankshaft and set the set key on the crankshaft upward.

Align the gold or orange colored link with the timing mark of the crankshaft timing sprocket.

Using Special Tool 09309-37010, tap in the sprocket.

Align the gold or yellow colored links with the timing marks of the camshaft timing gear and camshaft timing sprocket. Install the chain.

Fig. Align the marks of the sprockets and bearing caps to set the No. 1 cylinder at TDC-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine

Fig. Set the crankshaft set key facing upward-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine

Fig. Align the marked link of the timing chain with crankshaft sprocket timing mark-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine

Fig. Tap the crankshaft sprocket in with Special Tool 09309-37010-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine


Fig. Align the marked links of the timing chain with the camshaft sprockets during installation-2.4L (2AZ-FE) engine

To Install:

1. Install balance shaft drive gear onto the left camshaft.
2. Install the camshaft sprockets and new bolts finger tight.
3. Using a vise, compress the timing chain tensioner plunger.

4. Install a retaining clip on the tensioner to hold plunger IN during installation.
   marking timing chain
   

5. If timing chain copper links are not visible, mark 2 links on one end and 1 link on the other end to be used as timing marks.
6. Install right and left timing chain guides. Tighten bolts to 89 in-lbs (10 Nm).
7. Rotate the left camshaft until the timing mark is at the 12 o'clock position.
8. Rotate the right camshaft until the timing mark is at the 11 o'clock position.

9. Position the crankshaft using the special tool. Then remove the tool.
   Crankshaft special tool positioning
   

10. Install the crankshaft sprocket with flange facing forward.
    Crankshaft sprocket timing mark
    

11. Position lower end of left (inner) timing chain on the crankshaft sprocket. Align the copper (or marked) chain link with the timing mark on the outer flange of the crankshaft pulley. NOTE: Upper half of timing chain must be below the tensioner arm dowel.
    

12. Position the left timing chain on the camshaft sprocket. The timing mark on the camshaft sprocket must be aligned between the 2 copper (or marked) chain links.
    Left camshaft sprocket timing mark
    

13. Place the left timing chain tensioner arm on the dowel pin and install the timing chain tensioner and bolts. Tighten bolts to 18 ft-lbs (25 Nm). NOTE: Lower half of timing chain must be above the tensioner arm dowel.
    Crankshaft sprocket timing mark
    

14. Position lower end of right (outer) timing chain on the crankshaft sprocket. Align the copper (or marked) chain link with the timing mark on the outer flange of the crankshaft pulley.
    Right camshaft sprocket timing mark
    

15. Position the right timing chain on the camshaft sprocket. The timing mark on the camshaft sprocket must be aligned between the 2 copper (or marked) chain links.
16. Place the right timing chain tensioner arm on the dowel pin and install the timing chain tensioner and bolts. Tighten bolts to 18 ft-lbs (25 Nm).
17. Remove the retaining clips from the right and left timing chain tensioners.
18. Verify alignment of all timing marks.
19. Install crankshaft sensor ring on crankshaft.
20. Locate index mark on balance shaft and mark corresponding gear tooth with chalk.
21. Position balance shaft on journals. NOTE: It may be helpful to use an inspection mirror to view the marks timing marks.
    

22. Align the chalk mark on the balance shaft with the camshaft timing mark.
    Balance shaft bearing caps
    

23. Install the balance shaft bearing caps in their original locations. Follow the tightening sequence as shown in the illustration. Tighten bolts to 89 in-lbs (10 Nm).
24. Tighten the camshaft phaser sprocket bolts in the correct sequence using 2 steps, as follows:
    • Step 1-30 ft-lbs (40 Nm)
    • Step 2-tighten an additional 90 degrees
25. Position the crankshaft keyway in the 11 o'clock position.
26. Lubricate and install all camshaft roller followers. WARNING
    Engine front cover replacement procedure must be completed within 4 minutes or entire procedure must be repeated. Failure to do so may result in future leaks
    

go here for expert help on Villager & Quest

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/



Item Part Number Description 1 — 40 Timing Chain/Belt Teeth 2 6256 Camshaft Sprocket , Front 3 — 43 Timing Chain/Belt Teeth 4 6306 Crankshaft Sprocket 5 6268 Timing Chain/Belt 6 6256 Camshaft Sprocket , Rear
Removal

1. Drain the cooling system. Refer to Section 03-03 for the procedure.
   

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301) .
   

1. Remove the generator drive belt, water pump and power steering pump drive belt, and the A/C compressor drive belt (if equipped). Refer to Section 03-05 for the removal procedure.
   

1. If equipped, remove the three A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley bolts and the A/C compressor drive belt idler pulley.
   

1. Remove the upper radiator hose bracket bolt.
   

1. Loosen the two upper radiator hose clamps and remove the radiator hose bracket bolt. Remove the upper radiator hose (8260) and the upper radiator hose bracket from the vehicle.
   

1. Remove the water bypass hose (8597) from between the thermostat housing and the water hose connection (8592) .
   

1. Remove the main wiring harness from the upper engine front cover (6019) .
   

1. Remove the eight upper engine front cover bolts and the upper engine front cover .
   

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
   

1. Remove the RH front wheel and tire assembly.
   

1. Remove the four RH outer engine and transmission splash shield bolts and two screws and remove the RH outer engine and transmission splash shield (6775) .
   

1. Use Strap Wrench 303-D055 (D85L-6000-A) or equivalent to hold the water pump pulley (8509) while removing the four water pump pulley bolts.
   

1. Remove the water pump pulley from the water pump (8501) .
   

1. Remove the crankshaft pulley (6312) . Refer to the procedure in this section.
   

1. Remove the five lower engine front cover bolts and the lower engine front cover .
   
2. Ensure that the timing marks between the crankshaft sprocket (6306) and the oil pump housing line up.
   
3. NOTE: The directional arrow is necessary to ensure that the timing chain/belt (6268) can be reinstalled in the same direction.
   
4. Loosen the timing chain/belt tensioner nut.
   
5. Remove the timing chain/belt .
   
   
6. Installation
   NOTE: Ensure that the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets (6256) and the seal plate are properly aligned. Ensure that the timing marks on the crankshaft sprocket and the oil pump housing are still aligned. NOTE: A new timing chain/belt has three white timing marks that indicate the correct timing positions of the camshafts (6250) and the crankshaft (6303) . These marks will help ensure that the engine (6007) is timed properly. When the engine is properly timed each white timing mark on the timing chain/belt will be aligned with the corresponding camshaft and crankshaft timing mark on the sprocket. Because the white timing marks are not evenly spaced you will need to refer to the following illustration for proper timing chain/belt placement. There should be 40 timing belt teeth between the timing marks of the front and rear camshaft sprockets and 43 teeth between the timing mark on the front camshaft sprocket and the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket .
   
   NOTE: Verify that the camshaft timing marks are aligned with the timing marks on the seal plate, and that the crankshaft sprocket timing mark is aligned with the timing mark on the oil pump (6600) .
   
   Install the timing chain/belt starting at the crankshaft sprocket and moving around to the camshaft sprocket following a counterclockwise path. Do not allow any slack in the timing chain/belt between the timing sprockets. After all of the timing marks are matched up with the timing chain/belt installed, slip the timing chain/belt onto the timing chain/belt tensioner .
   
   
   
   
   
   

My Husky 36 did this. The oil pump drive gear was stripped and had to be replace. It's located under the flywheel/sprocket so you have to pull that. I couldn't find info on how to do that so had a local shop repair it for $70! Parts are cheap, labor is not.