Unit will not pull up the anchor

Step 1 Pull back the rubber cover of the clutch lever to reveal the lock nut and adjusting screw. Loosen the lock nut with a wrench. Tighten the adjuster screw until it won't turn any more.
Step 2 Remove the left frame cover of the body of the bike and set it aside in a safe place. Remove the bolts holding the secondary gear case cover and the clutch release cover with a socket wrench. Remove the secondary gear case and clutch release cover and set them aside.
Step 3 Find the lock nut and screw located at the lower end of the clutch assembly cable. Loosen the lock nut. Loosen the screw by three rotations. Slowly finger tighten the adjusting screw until you start to feel resistance. Loosen the screw a quarter-rotation. Tighten the lock nut to hold it in place.
Step 4 Locate the lower cable adjuster above the clutch release cover. Loosen the two lock nuts of the adjuster with the socket wrench. Turn the cable adjuster screw and check the clutch lever as you turn. Tighten the adjuster screw until the clutch lever will wiggle loosely or "play" about 1/8-inch. Tighten the lock nuts.
Tighten the lock nut of the clutch lever. Replace the clutch release, secondary gear case and left frame cover. Pull the rubber cover back over the clutch lever.

the tightness on the clutch cover bolts is to go around three times,3/8th rachet and pinch up ,pinch ,then go over them again with another pull at bit more than the pinch then check them for the third time again ,this is because the clutch cover sits on dowels and even if you pull them down with a torque wrench they can still work loose if the cover hasnt pulled down over the dowels ,its sort of experiance that counts here you get to know the feel of the thing pulling down ,just tightening once with a torque wrench doesnt mean its correct .

Many times the handle is slid on from one side or the other onto the screws. Try sliding the handle off by gently putting a screwdriver or putty knofe under the handle on the side that is still attached and pushing the handle sideways. This should remove the handle so you can remove the mounting screw and get it back on the door. then you can slide the door handle back on after getting the screw attached on the door again.

Check this generic procedure:
1. Follow the harness side of your seatbelt (this is the side you pull across your shoulder and lap to connect to the anchor side) to the points where it connects to the car frame.
2. Using a flat head and Phillips screwdriver, unscrew and pry off any plastic housing that is covering the bolt connections. Select a socket that will fit the bolt and attach the wrench to the bolt.
3. Feel underneath the car for the other end of the seatbelt bolt. Fit a box wrench to the nut and hold it still while unscrewing the bolt with the socket wrench inside the car.
4. Unbolt the shoulder attachment of the harness with a socket wrench. Remove the harness side seatbelt from your Toyota Corolla.
5. Install the new harness side seatbelt by reversing the removal steps, however, make sure to use the new hardware provided with your replacement belt.
6. Feel down at the bottom of the anchor side of your old seatbelt. There will be one bolt and nut attaching it to the bottom of the car. Remove the bolt using a socket and box wrench.
7. Install the replacement anchor side. Before you tighten the bolt, connect the seatbelt and make sure that you have the anchor side facing the correct direction to receive the harness. When it is right, tighten the bolt.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

Take all the play off clutch lever using adjusting nuts under rubber boot on clutch cable remove derby cover on primary cover use allen wrench to hold push rod while loosing lock nut turn allen wrench clock wise on push rod until it just stops do not apply pressure you will bend push rod.then turn counter clock wise about half turn hold with allen wrench tighten lock nut . Adjust nuts on cable until; 1/8 inch play on clutch lever should be good to go .

loosen the anchor bolt the hold both brake shoes against the wheel rim pull the cable tight and tighten the anchor bolt

All of the instructions can also be found at www.SentrySafeShop.com

The link is:
http://www.sentrysafeshop.com//kb_results.asp?ID=7

Required Tools:
Drill, Wrench, 7/16" (11.0mm) bit, for wood anchoring: 9/32" (7.20mm) bit, for masonry
anchoring: 3/8" (9.5Omm) masonry drill bit.
The steps are as follows:
1. Tip the safe on its right side. (Door hinges horizontal with the floor)
2. Unlock the safe and open the door.
3. Look on the bottom (outside) of the safe for two indentations in opposite corners. Using a
7/16" (11.0mm) bit, drill a hole through each indentation perpendicular to the bottom of the
safe.
4. Close the door and tip the safe upright. Place it where desired and reopen the door.
5. Use a screw or drill bit to mark the floor through both holes.
6. Move the safe aside to clear both marked spots for drilling.
7. Drill into the floor:
a. For wood:
i. Using a 9/32" (7.2mm) bit drill a hole 2 Y2" (64mm) deep in each marked
spot.
b. For masonry:
i. Using a 3/8" (9.50 mm) bit drill a hole 2 Y2" (64mm) deep in each marked
spot.
ii. Install a masonry anchor in each hole.
8. Replace the safe in the desired position, with the holes in the safe aligned with those in
the floor.
9. Securing the safe:
a. For wood:
i. Pass each lag screw through a washer, then through the safe and into a hole. .
ii. Tighten with a wrench. ,
b. For masonry:
i. Pass each lag screw through a washer, then through the safe and into a
masonry anchor.
ii. Tighten with a wrench.

One thing is to purchase a stopper for the top line and to top off the reservoir of the clutch side so when you get it done it is nearly full.

LOOSEN the line before taking the unit off the car as this will anchor the unit making the lines easier to remove.
GET a LINE WRENCH - this is a wrench you will use on other projects and is a MUST for a car this old. Be sure it fits your line before beginning.

Once the unit is on - check the line for tightness. -Open the bleeder and let it set. Have someone in the car to help - have them push the clutch in ONCE - the first time - then release the bleeder -- watch to make sure it doesn't spray you in the face.
Once you loosen then tighten the bleeder have the person pump the peddle 3 times - repeat the bleeding until the clutch is operating as it should - the same or better than before.
TOP OFF the FLUID - close and enjoy.

RICE

There is a great chance the clutch has frozen due to corrosion.It need to be pulled apart at the clutch.Its not a big job and quiet easy.The plates freeze together and need to be "cracked" apart.I hope this helps

You need to adjust the clutch cable adjustment for the clutch handle, THEN adjust the clutch itself.

1.First go to the clutch cable. Halfway down the cable is a rubber boot. Pull the rubber boot up the cable, (Or down. Pull it. Do NOT push), until it clears the adjustment. (The adjustment is a hex shaped piece, that is made of two parts. It's called a Barrel)
Use a 9/16 inch open end wrench, and a 1/2 inch open end wrench. Loosen the lock nut until you have around 1/16th to 1/8th of an inch clearance, of slack in the handle.
(Where the clutch lever, touches the clutch lever mount on the handlebars)

2.Now open the derby cover.
(The round cover on the back of your primary cover. Not to insult your intelligence. This -> https://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=02649&store=&catId=&productId=p02649&leafCatId=&mmyId=
<-shows a custom primary inner, and outer cover. The derby cover is the round cover all the way to the right, on this custom primary cover. You can click on the photo to enlarge)

You will then see a single threaded stud, (Adjuster screw), in the middle of the clutch pressure plate.
This adjuster screw has a nut on it, to lock the screw from turning. (Jam nut)
Hold the stud end,(adjuster screw). from turning with a large flat tip screwdriver,
(May have changed to a small square end, that you use an open end wrench on), loosen the jam nut with an open end wrench.

Turn the adjuster screw in, until there is 1/8th inch slack of the clutch lever, to the clutch lever mount.
(The clutch lever mount is the part that attaches to the handlebars. The clutch lever is the part you squeeze in with your hand. The slack is the small space in-between the clutch lever, where it touches the clutch lever mount)

Now turn the adjuster screw out 1/2 turn. Tighten the jam nut. (Make sure you hold the adjuster screw in that place you set, as you tighten the jam nut. DON'T let the adjuster screw turn as you tighten the jam nut!)

3.Now tighten the lock nut, (Jam nut), on the adjustment barrel for the clutch cable. You should grease the threads of this adjustment barrel to prevent corrosion in the future. Pull the rubber boot back into place.

4.Replace the derby cover gasket as these will leak like a sieve. Replacing this gasket is cheap insurance. Install the derby cover, tighten the derby cover screws evenly. (Go to one screw, tighten until it touches. Then go to another screw, and do the same. After all three are touching, snug them down one turn at a time, going from screw to screw)

This is a thin cover. If you don't tighten the screws evenly, you can cause this thin cover to warp, and be the cause of a constant annoying oil drip.