I have a Lemar ProFish 1000. The problem is that the unit does not engage to pull the anchor back up. The Piece that the pin should catch on to tighten the wench was loose, I tighted it but it still will not engage tight enough to pull up the anchor. I can manually block the pin and get it to tighten up enough but as soon as it is let out again it will not tighted on it's own...

If the hub is coming out the whole assembly needs replaced. The hub is the part that has the studs that anchor the wheel when you put the lugnuts on. The caliper should be moving freely unless the anchoring sleeves or slider pins are damaged. If the caliper is still anchored to the backing plate then there would be no issue with the slider pins.

No diagram but could get one from Harley parts department or maybe this will help:

For removal block the motorcycle underneath the frame so both wheels are raised off the ground and then remove the cotter pin and washer from the pin and unhook the spring from the jiffy stand and anchor plate and pull the pin from between the frame tubes and then the jiffy stand and the pivot block will drop out together as one piece.
To reinstall the jiffy stand put the pivot block and jiffy the stand assembly between the frame tubes, install the pin through frame tubes and pivot block from the back towards the front and secure it with a new washer and cotter pin and then attach the spring to the anchor plate (the hook on spring will face up) and the jiffy stand. Ensure that the jiffy stand works properly before using it or relying on it to hold up the bike.

Open the door & have someone hold it open,
with the door handle pulled out

Use a screw driver or any round tool to open the
plastic lock catch in the door latch

Sometimes your clothes catch it & close it ,as if it
were wrapped around the B-Pillar Pin, your referring to

Maybe to late for this but if you do one side at a time just look at the other side for how they go together. Also the short shoe goes toward the front long toward the back.
1. Clean and inspect individual brake components.
2. Lubricate anchor pin an brake show contact pads on support plate with high temperature grease or
Lubriplate. See Fig. 41 .
3. Lubricate adjuster screw socket, nut, button, and screw thread surfaces with grease or Lubriplate.
4. Install the parking brake cable to the parking brake lever.
5. Install parking brake lever to the secondary shoe and install retaining clip.
6. Install primary shoe on support plate. Secure shoe with new spring retainers and pin.
7. Install spring on parking brake strut and engage strut in primary.
8. Install secondary shoe on support plate. See Fig. 42 . Insert strut in shoe and guide shoe onto anchor pin.
Temporarily secure shoe with restraining pin.
9. Install anchor plate and adjuster cable eyelet on support plate anchor pin.
10. Install cable guide in secondary shoe and position cable in guide.
CAUTION: Be sure the adjuster screws are installed on the correct brake unit. The adjuster screws are marked
"L" (left) or "R" (right) for identification
11. Assemble adjuster screw. See Fig. 43 . Then install adjuster screw between the brake shoes.
12. Install adjuster lever and spring, and connect adjuster cable to lever.
13. Install secondary shoe retainers and spring.
14. Install shoe spring. Connect spring to secondary shoe first, then to primary shoe.
15. Verify adjuster operation. Pull adjuster cable upward, cable should lift and rotate star wheel. Be sure
adjuster lever properly engages star wheel teeth.
16. Adjust brake shoes. See REAR BRAKE SHOES under ADJUSTMENTS.
17. Install wheel and tire assembly. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

First, put a volt meter across the winch's power terminals to verify that the voltage is not dropping several volts when comanded to run, indicating a bad cable connection somewhere. Anchor winch's pull alot of current from a battery.
For a test, use car jumper cables from a good battery to the winch to see if it runs better.

The cabin air filter is located directly underneath the cowling at the base of the windshield on the passenger side of the car.
To access the cabin air filter, you will need to remove the cowling. First, open and lift the hood. Second, locate two plastic pins securing the plastic cowling at the base of the front windshield, on the passenger side. One is located under the wiper blade, near its base. Use a small screwdriver or similar tool to carefully lift/pop up two plastic pins securing the cowling, taking care not to damage the plastic pins. (You want to lift the pins, and not the anchors that look like washers beneath the heads of the pins. Carefully pull the plastic pins and their plastic anchors (once you pull the pin up, you can safely remove the anchor). Take caution not to damage the pins and anchors as you will need them to rescure the cowling when you are finished replacing the cabin air filter.
Before you remove the cowling, carefully pull back the rubber gasket and windshield washer fluid tubing at the base of the cowling. You can now safely remove the cowling, and you will see the cabin air filter below.
Remove the old cabin air filter and replace it with a new filter.
Reverse this process to reinstall the cowling, gasket, and pins once you have replaced the filter.

i took the tip you all gave me to look in the trunk.i had done that before, but now i looked closer and
experiment a bit more and found out how to remove the old speakers.they are easily accessible from
the trunk.the one on the driver side is trickier cause there is an amp. mounted right under it which has
to be removed first to get to the speaker.they are held up (speakers) by plastic pins and anchors not
bolts and nuts.grip the head of the pin with pliers and gently pull straight down till the pin comes down
enough to release the anchor and they come out of the hole.for the amp. take only the 2 screws in the
front off and loosen the 2 in the back and it slides out;I also removed 2 screws in the side of bracket of
the amp.so i could move it a bit for more room to work on.when putting in the pins and anchors back pull
pin all the way back in the anchor, pinch it and insert it in the hole as far as possible then push the pin
up to lock in place.I used the back of a socket wrench with a rubber handle to push the pins up into
place it worked like a dream.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
If you are not thoroughly familiar with the procedures involved in brake replacement, only disassemble and assemble one side at a time, leaving the other wheel intact as a reference.
1983-88 Vehicles
See Figures 1, 2 and 3

1. Raise and safely support the rear of the vehicle with jackstands.
2. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
3. Remove the brake drum, as outlined earlier in this section.
4. Place Brake Cylinder Clamp D81L-1103-B or equivalent, over the ends of the brake cylinder.

CAUTIONBe careful that the springs do not slip off the tool during removal, as they could cause personal injury.

1. Remove the shoe-to-anchor springs, using Brake Shoe R and R Spring BT-11, or equivalent, then unhook the cable eye from the anchor pin.

Fig. 1: Place the brake clamp tool over the ends of the wheel cylinder, then remove the shoe-to-anchor springs using the correct tool

1. Remove the shoe guide (anchor pin) plate.
2. Remove the shoe hold-down springs, shoes, adjusting screws, pivot nut, socket and automatic adjustment parts.
3. Remove the parking brake link, spring and retainer. Disconnect the parking brake cable from the parking brake lever.
4. After removing the secondary brake shoe, disassembly the parking brake lever from the shoe by removing the retaining clip and spring washer.

Fig. 2: View of the drum brake components-1983-88 9-inch brake shown Fig. 3: View of the drum brake components-1983-88 10-inch brake shownTo install:

1. The brake cable must be connected to the secondary brake shoe before the shoe is installed on the backing plate. To do this, first transfer the parking brake lever from the old secondary shoe to the new one. This is accomplished by spreading the bottom of the horseshoe clip and disengaging the lever. Position the lever on the new secondary shoe and install the spring washer and the horseshoe clip. Close the bottom of the clip after installing it. Grasp the metal tip of the parking brake cable with a pair of pliers. Position a pair of side cutter pliers on the end of the cable coil spring, and using the plier as a fulcrum, pull the coil spring back with the side cutters. Position the cable in the parking brake lever.
2. Apply a light coating of high temperature grease to the brake shoe contact points on the backing plate. Position the primary brake shoe on the front of the backing plate and install the hold-down spring and washer over the mounting pin. Install the secondary shoe on the rear of the backing plate.
3. Install the parking brake link between the notch in the primary brake shoe and the notch in the parking brake lever.
4. Install the automatic adjuster cable loop end on the anchor pin. Make sure the crimped side of the loop faces the backing plate.
5. Install the return spring in the primary brake shoe and, using the tapered end of the brake spring service tool, slide the top of the spring onto the anchor pin.

CAUTIONBe careful to make sure that the spring does not slip off the tool during installation, as it could cause injury.

1. Install the automatic adjuster cable guide in the secondary brake shoe, making sure the flared hole in the cable guide is inside the hole in the brake shoe. Fit the cable into the groove in the top of the cable guide.
2. Install the secondary shoe return spring through the hole in the cable guide and the brake shoe. Using the brake spring tool, slide the top of the spring onto the anchor pin.
3. Clean the threads on the adjusting screw and apply a light coating of high temperature grease to the threads. Screw the adjuster closed, then open it 1/2 turn.
4. Install the adjusting screw between the brake shoes with the star wheel nearest to the secondary shoe. Make sure the star wheel is in a position that is accessible from the adjusting slot in the backing plate.
5. Install the short hooked end of the automatic adjuster spring in the proper hole in the primary brake shoe.
6. Connect the hooked end of the automatic adjuster cable and the free end of the automatic adjuster spring in the slot in the top of the automatic adjuster lever.
7. Pull the automatic adjuster lever (the lever will pull the cable and spring with it) downward and to the left and engage the pivot hook of the lever in the hole in the secondary brake shoe.
8. Check the entire brake assembly to make sure that everything is installed properly. Make sure that the shoes engage the wheel cylinder properly and are flush on the anchor pin. Make sure that the automatic adjuster cable is flush on the anchor pin and in the slot on the back of the cable guide. Make sure that the adjusting lever rests on the adjusting screw star wheel. Pull upward on the adjusting cable until the adjusting lever is free of the star wheel, then release the cable. The adjusting lever should snap back into place on the adjusting screw star wheel and turn the wheel one tooth.
9. Expand the brake adjusting screw until the brake drum will just fit over the brake shoes.
10. Install the brake drum and wheel and tire assembly, then adjust the brakes.
11. Carefully lower the vehicle.