Hot tub blows 50 amp breaker after about two seconds-does move water. about half full of water, bought tub used and sat for a year empty

it's likely due to an air lock. Here's what you can do to resolve this issue:

Manually Clearing an Airlock:
Run the jets on low for about 30 seconds.
Then run the jets on high for another 30 seconds.
Repeat this process 3 or 4 times.
If you hear a gurgling sound and see air bubbling up, continue running your hot tub until it pushes all the air out.
If this doesn't work after several attempts, try a different approach.
Bleeder Valves or Pump Method:
Some spas have bleeder valves that allow you to bleed air out of the lines.
First, turn off the spa at the breaker.
Access the pump and loosen the valve to allow the air to escape.
When the air has bled out (you'll notice it turns from hissing air to a stream of water), close the valve.
Run the pump to ensure the jets are now pumping water as expected.
Why Are the Jets Not Working on One Side Only?:
Many hot tubs have two water pumps.
If the jets on only one side of your hot tub stop working, there could be an airlock in only one of the pumps.
It could also be a blockage in the jet lines for that side or a problem with the internal mechanism of the jet itself.
Can You Use a Spa with an Airlock?:
It is not recommended to use a hot tub with an airlock.

If the reservoir is empty, you may want to start out by draining your radiator completely and starting over. there is a petcock valve at the bottom of the radiator. EPA Says you can't drain it onto the ground, but that's your decision. Anyway.....Buy full strength antifreeze. Take a empty gallon jug (could be a gallon milk jug so you can see more easily) and mix one half antifreeze to one half water.Take the cap off the radiator and add it it there.When it is full, put the cap back on the radiator and crank your vehicle to circulate it.Then start adding the antifreeze/ water mixture to the reservoir.As it goes down keep adding until it levels out at the normally hot line on the reservoir. As for the type of antifreeze........it's basically all the same which is Propylene glycol. CAUTION ! DON"T REMOVE THE RADIATOR CAP AFTER THE ENGINE HAS WARMED UP ! Hope this helps.

Try for what ?

You removed breakers not needed or ones with little
on them, to make room for a larger 50 amp Hot Tub
Breaker,so you got your hot tub powered up

What is the question,seems you solved the issue
by making room for the new breaker !

if the breaker was designed for hot tub use, it contains a ground fault interrupt mechanism to trip the breaker if there is a short in the circuit. This is to prevent electrocution if you're sitting in the tub and a wire happens to short to the water. It could be that there is a short in the circuit, causing this mechanism to trip. If you can try each motor individually and the problem follows one rather than the other, it may be that a motor is damaged and is exposed to water.

If this problem only occurs when both motors are up and running, it could be something between the two. Either way, the solution might be to take an ohmmeter to the motor. First check for continuity across the motor (there should be continutiy there) and then test to see if there is continuity from the motor to the water (there shouldn't be there).

Hi and welcoe to FixYa, I am Kelly.
11,000W is the maximum power that it could draw. Given the wattage is over 10,000 I am certain that your Spa / Tub heater is 220 VAC If it is 220 VAC then you will need a 50 Amp breaker. If it only 110 VAC you will need a 100 Amp Breaker. (Gasp!)

Amp consumption will always vary.
Heater on / Off
Number of Blowers and pumps in operation at any given time. Then add lights to the equation. My best guess at any given time it is in "full operation" it will average 6,000 - 7,500 watts. When not in full use it the average amp usage would drop substantially.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Your hot tub needs GFI protection because it is electrical, and people sit inside water that could be exposed to electric current.
You have a fault to ground that needs to be fixed.

Size 8 wire for 50Amp breaker.
Size 6 if tub is 50-100' feet away
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html

There might be a few things here:

1) Big problem >> the #8 wire is a fire hazard connected to a 50Amp breaker

#8 is a 40 amp breaker
#6 is a 55 amp breaker
We put #6 on a 60 amp breaker
Are you saying you hooked the #8 wire to the new 50 amp breaker, and the hot tub called for #6 wire?

Upsize your wire and breaker to meet code
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Wire-size-amp-rating.pdf

2) After putting the correct wire and breaker, you can still have a short in the circuit somewhere
We used to set equipment out in the field in early morning >> the grass was wet >> our equipment was fine, but the tiniest short would cause the GFCI to trip

I don't know where the problem is without a thorough checkout of every possible grounded surface. You need a good multi-meter

3) You better get an electrician over there to have a look before the place burns down or somebody wakes up dead in the hot water.

If I sound a bit scary here, it's because something doesn't sound right with your installation.

Possibly your problem is the tube that tells the machine when the water is full. It may be blocked.

did you turn the breaker on ? before filling the tank ?the water tank must be completly full before turning on. the new elements will blow if not submerged in water ..if you have 240 volts at the element and its not heating one is out .only one element can be on at a time so you really need an amp prob to test element .try an ohm meter an check resistance ,sounds like one element is out .hope this helps good luck /P/Swhen filling tank. open a hot water valve, on tub or faucet to remove air while filling the tank. you will hear the air coming out of faucet. when water comes out its filled..

As long as it is wired with at least #8 wire your 40 amp breaker should be fine. The 50 GFI could not pull over 40 amps from the main panel.