At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Question edited for clarity, MAKER.
Question moved to Model Category.
Your fridge freezer has three fans.
The compressor evaporator fan cuts in and out as required to maintain temperature.
The fridge evaporator circulation fan runs to maintain an even temperature. It stops when to open the door and resumes when you close it and stops when the set temperature is reached as long as the compressor isn't running. If the compressor is running, the fan normally runs to prevent icing which happens slowly.
The freezer also has a fan, and that runs pretty much all the time unless target temperature is met and the compressor is not running. This fan runs when you open the door to stop the moist air from the room freezing on contact to the 0'F, -18'C evaporator fins. The fan keeps the air moving to deposit less frost.
It sounds like your is running normally except for the noise. Trace the noise and find it. The compressor fan has a Shark Paper fibre board cover and these often distort over time and touch the fan blades. That is the common cause. The less common cause is the internal fans pinging off built up ice that should have been removed during the defrost cycle.
My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.
Your problem is not your thermostat. In some models the compressor knocks out the overload relay. They relay could last a few seconds or a few weeks before the compressor knocks it out again. This is especially turn with the LG units.
You will need a multi-meter to check your compressor.
1.) Unplug your unit. Remove the bottom back cover.
2.) Remove the overload components to expose the 3 pins on the compressor.
3.) Inspect the pins on the compressor. Are they clean or are they damaged from heat (Steel melting).
4.) With your multi-meter, set the meter on the lowest Ohms. Read the Ohms between each of the pins. You will have 3 readings. One reading will be high and the other 2 readings will be lower. Add the 2 lower readings together. This value must equal the high reading within a few tenths.
I hope I am wrong. A new compressor depending on the model is $275-$450.00. Include a system filter for $40.00, plus new refrigerant $45.00 and the cost od an experienced technician $300.00.
To be honest it sounds to me like your fridge may be ok?
To extract the heat from within the fridge interior a compressor (motorised pump) moves gas around a series of pipes around the cabinets insides. This movement of gas causes heat to be picked up and taken away externally to the outside world. When the fridge temperature reaches a predetermined level (around 5C) the compressor shuts down and all is quite. The sound of running water you hear is the coolant gas changing state from gas to liquid and running through the coolant pipes. If the fridge is doing it's job and keeping the content cool then I wouldn't worry. One of the reasons you are probably noticing this sound is because it is a table top fridge. Built in fridges make the same noises but you don't really hear them so much because of the cupboards screening the sound.
. Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start. Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay. The relay is a small usually black cube shaped electrical part plugged into the compressor or wired to it nearby. It may appear burnt or rattle when shaken if it's bad. The two connections should show continuity with an amp meter. If it's good then it's most likely the compressor causing the problem.
I am not sure but just for good measure>>>
Is your circulating fan working?
Sometimes they stick and need a shot of WD 40 and then work
it back and forth a little until it wants to take off again. Keep me informed
and PLEASE give a Thumbs Up for the effort. The Raz Shack
The fans are controlled with a clixon that has a cut in at 5 degrees, and cut out at 20 degrees. If the unit is running and the fans are not comng on then I would have to say you are out of freon. But your condensor fan could be running and the compressor NOT be running which could be a problem with your compressor. Find out if your compressor is running by taking an amp draw. If compressor IS running then you are low on freon. If the compressor is running and your evaporator coil is cold and your fans AREN'T coming on then your clixon is bad.
on the side of the compressor you will see 2-3 wires running into an electrical connection reseat this first. if still no operation replace teh relay. you can purchase thru any reputable appliance parts dealer. after replacing the relay if you have no operation then likely problem is seized comp.
i dont think so i would look at the compressor kicking out on thermal overload or a faulty thermostat thermostats have two settings cut in cut out your cut in could be bad and not turning the compressor on till the temp reaches melting temps now if your hearing a click buzz then you need to look at the compressor and make sure the compressor fan is running but its not a defrost promblem
Not sure of what cut out refers to. If you mean the power supply is tripped out after twenty secs hen I would say there is a fair chance of the compressor being down to earth (ie broken). If you mean that the compressor tries to run and then stops after twenty secs then there is a fair chance the compressor is stalled (ie broken). There is also a chance that the relay (starting device) may be at fault failing to start the compressor. If it is the relay then the cost may be around £70 if its the compressor then you are lookin at a couple of hundred pounds approx. The buzzing sound does sound like the compressor trying to run but stalled and unfortunately compressors have no real average anymore and are prone to fail whenever they choose to. Sorry to sound negative and hope this helps.
×