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Hello
If u have 2 kinds of trip circuits
1) regular over current trip then there maybe a problem withthe mcb itself, so try another location that does not use that trip or higher amps trip .
2) if u have an mcb with special trip that also makes sure there is not leakage to the ground of toaster , then some toasters get the leakage after some time .
Most likely suspects in this scenario would be the heating element or the temperature sensing rod. Not sure what the sensing rod setup on this oven looks like, but it is generally a few inches long, similar diameter to a charging cable for your phone, attached to the back wall of the oven and sticking out directly toward the oven door. If it goes bad, the oven may think it has reached the set temperature and turn off, but generally, it is the opposite (it allows the oven to get too hot). My guess is heating element, but the sensor generally costs a lot less to replace, though maybe not with a small toaster oven. Good luck!
Yes normally a fuse which they replace for it to heat again generally goes when over heated especially if not in a air flow area will cost about $100 - $120 to fix local electrian
I have the same toaster oven and it developed the same problem.
There is a thermal fuse with a 172C trip point. I replaced it with a new part and it worked fine for another week. I replaced it again with a fuse with a 192C trip point and that's been working for a couple of months now. Some pointers for replacing the fuse.
1) you need a Philips screwdriver with an 11" (30cm) shaft to get at the screws behind the control panel.
2) you only need to take off the feet and open the right side (looking at the toaster from the front).
3) The thermal fuse is in a white flexible plastic tube, held in place with a metal bracket.
4) You can pull the old fuse from the wire clamp using 2 pairs of plyers. I re-used the same clamps to connect the new fuse to the existing wires.
5) Replacement fuses can be found on EBAY for about $1.50 (includes shipping from Hong Kong)
Having a toaster oven and a coffee maker on the same circuit is asking the breaker to trip in the house electrical panel, but I guess that you have learned the drill: only one appliance on at a time. Try moving the oven to the working side of the socket (the two socket sections can be spit apart and power each half from a separate house breaker and wiring). If the oven now works, check for a tripped breaker in the house panel. If the oven still doesn't work, look for a reset button near the cord entry point. Many heating type appliances have a thermal fuse that opens when things get too hot, but you need to get inside the cover where the cord enters.
Mine just broke too - it won't heat - everything else works - lights, timer ect. but no heat can't cook without it - love my oven - any solutions ( I guess it's the heating element ) Hope I can get a new one.
Definitely return it. It has a partial internal short which is appying full power to only part of the heating element causing th excessive heat. No properly working appliance should make the outlet hot.
I work for Black & Decker customer service. Our phone number is 800-231-9786.
Sparks coming from any appliance or electronic device is very serious. Please call the above number sometime on Monday between 8:30 and 5:00 EDT. One of our customer service specialists will assist you with this matter.
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There is no fuse. Take back cover off and all bottom perimeter screws. Outside cover pulls off towards rear once you get all the ** little screws out. Chances are you will find burned connections on the heating elements poking out the sides of the heating chamber. Try cleaning these and squeeze them tighter before reconnecting. Good luck!
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