Needs a reed valve - Porter Cable 18 - Gauge Brad Nailer and Compressor Combo Kit

I don't generally like to work on 2cycles. Reed valves are under the carb on the ones I've seen. I watched this whole video of a 250 being disassembled and I didn't see reed valves. It looks like a ported piston design to me aka no reed valve. I'm willing to be wrong.
Here's a complete tear down video -
Stihl MS250 Chainsaw Teardown

Here is an exploded diagram and I don't see reed valves on it.
Stihl MS 250 Chainsaw MS250 Parts Diagram

Joseph,

It will be the reed valves need replacing. When they fail it can create a suction as the piston returns. This, in turn, pulls the recoil handle out of your hand (and can damage the recoil too.)

The Reed Valves are located behind the carb and are easy to replace. Be sure to replace the gaskets on the reed valves and the 2 gaskets on the carb, as they will split when you replace the reed valves. If you use a split gasket, it can allow extra air into the fuel mixture, and result in the engine running rough or not at all. So best to change them as you go.

Best of luck. Let us know if you need any more assistance.

Regards
Generator Guru Parts and Spares

BTW... We sell the reed valves and the gaskets! You can purchase them here: http://www.generatorguru.com/storm-cat/?sort=featured

That sounds like the reed valve sticking or dirty.
You will need to take out the reed valve, clean and re-install. Be aware that a small amount of oil is common, also do not over fill the oil. The full mark is hot. Too much oil in the crakcase can build up pressure and keep the reed valve open.

Yes mate... It is hard to say without seeing the reed valve but I guaranty a dodgy reed valve will make running and tuning the bike a nightmare. Your reeds need to seal perfectly and open and close about 2-3 times a second so if any cracks, holes or damage to them then they will never seal correctly which will allow blow back through the carbi and incorrect air and fuel mix to be sucked into the motor. best solution buy a V force reed kit it replaces the entire cage and reeds just bolts in (4 bolts) I sell them for about $160 delivered, or if your know what you are doing then you can just replace the reed petals with new... About $60 ishwww.motoxpartsonline.com

If you have oil coming out of the oil fill and dip stick you most likely installed the reed plate upside down. Usually it says this side up or there is an arrow pointing up on the reed plate.
This is a good sketch of compressor and reed valve assy.
http://www.about-air-compressors.com/images/1055.gif

Usually the reeds are on top of the plate facing downward. If you have just a reed disc.. then the disc will need to be inverted.

Thanks for Choosing FixYa.

Kelly

When factory reeds are not available, I generally use reed stock. What the heck is that you might ask. Reed stock is any material handy that will substitute for the factory reeds. I have used feeler gage material, reeds from other compressors cut down to size, hacksaw blades with saw edge ground off, rewind spring from various nailers and finally thin stainless steel sheets. You can be creative, all it needs to do is set nicely in the space provided. Another hint: Some reedvalve plates have one reed valve with several fingers acting over several matching ports. You can cut away the broken reedfinger leaving the remaining portion. Now you have an open port. All you need do is thread hole and apply treadlock to a piece of bolt cut to same thickness of plate. Good Luck

Without knowing specifics of your unit, If there are three reeds, then two are probably for intake and one for exhaust. Intake reeds should be on the piston side of the valve plate, discharge reed should be on the head side.

There should be a divider in the head side to separate the inlet from the discharge. Make sure the valve plate is turned so that the air from the air filter side goes to the side with the intake valves, and the air from the discharge valve should go to the side with the pipe to the tank.

The reed valve assembly should hold solvent withot leaking. Remove for test. Disassemble and clean reeds and reed seat. Perfect seal is very important.

Good luck,
Techjoel

I believe in your model of air compressor, when you take apart the head portion to your compressor you should have four reed valves. When you have it apart, there should be two "grooves" on the bottom "plate" and two "grooves" on the top plate (where the reed valves go). the bottom part is easy (as you should already know) to set in the reed valves, but as i have also found out, as you probably have, that its a little more difficult to line up the other reed valves to thier "grooves" on the upper "plate". What you do to make sure that they stay in place is dab a little oil or grease on the reeds and place them in the upper "plate grooves" and carefully set the upper plate back in place where it goes on the compressor. It will hold them in place long enough to install it on the compressor and the small amount of grease that was there will quickly be burned up with no effect to the opperation to the machine.
Sorry, long winded explanation. hope this helps and if it didnt get to you soon enough i hope it helps out in the future. :-D

The Homelite 330 has a set of "reed valves" (thin fiberglass flaps held in a V shaped holder, narro end of the V point to the engine) in between the carburetor and the intake port of the cylinder.

Looke here http://books.google.com/books?id=ISzSHyegUSYC&pg=PA218&lpg=PA217&ots=TiCmMmPbXi&dq=330+operators+manual+homelite#PPA218,M1

then look at part #26 on page 218.

basically it does:

Airflow Reed Valve engine
----> >

Their function is to open slightly when the air is rushing through them toward the engine, and yet flap closed again to stop the backflow or air/fuel from going out of the cylinder. The sucking action of the engine lets the air slightly move the reed off of the small part of the "V" and the air flows in. As the airflow is reduced the mechanical tension of the reed, trying to remain flat and not bent, closes it.

Since they are flaps there is a momentary time then the air will rush out as they close. But you not should see "lots" of fuel coming out of the carburetor.

Two symptoms will cause excess fuel/air rushing out of the carb.
1. if they are old the reeds can be slightly warped and just not seal against the reed valve cage. That means replacing the reeds (if servicable) or the reed valve (cage and reeds together).
2. If any dirt or sawdust ever got into the engine, there could be some particles stuck between the reed valve and the cage. This is usually near the top of the reed valve and once it's in there, it can't get out. You can sometimes tage out the reed valve cage, remove the reeds and clean everything. The foam seal around the perimeter if the black top cover of the Homelite 330 usually breaks down over time and lets dirt/fine sawdust into the "Clean side" of the air system. You should see no dirt/sawdust or debrea around the carburetor.

In either event you would want to make sure that when you are lookin at the part that the reeds are perfectly seated on the reed valve cage. If not, you get the symptoms that you described.

Good luck!
Stuart