Dremel motor dead. Unit bought new, used twice; once to cut through a small screw with cutting wheel, and once to cut through the thin metal of a small wire shelf. Tool performed perfectly both times and then sat on shelf for about a year. Pulled it out today to use, and motor ran for about 2 seconds (literally), then quit completely, no response to anything. Nothing obvious to explain it. Never dropped, never wet, stored in Dremel "toolbox" it came in, stored in cool, dry finished basement, no electrical problems or anomalies I am aware of in the house. Am I missing something, or am I destined to be buying a new Dremel? Thanks in advance!

Jill Timm's class, The Amazing Dremel, into one blog post.
Bwahahahahahahah!!!
I did not take into account how many notes I took during the workshop. In fact, my table neighbor at the workshop teased me for two days on how many notes I took.
My plan is to split the information into three blog posts:

• Dremel bits and what they do (hey - that's what you're reading now!)
• Tips for using a Dremel with specific materials
• Dremel resources for artists

Please note that this post only focuses on what the bits look like and what they do. Oh, and the bits mentioned are the only ones that we used in the workshop - we didn't use any routing bits. Sorry.
That said, let's talk Dremel bits.
I think that one of the things that both attracted me and freaked me out about the Dremel was its huge buffet of accessories. The packages are labeled by use, but it still seemed like gibberish to me. Jill created the perfect environment for overcoming my Dremel fear.
You can read about my class in the following blog posts:

• The Amazing Dremel with Jill Timm - Day 1
• The Amazing Dremel with Jill Timm - Day 2

This post is in no way meant to replace the total awesomeness of taking Jill Timm's class. I benefited so much from hearing Jill's experiences and seeing her work in person. If I had bought a Dremel and experimented with it on my own, most likely I would have never tried it on the range of materials that we did in class.
Jill recently announced that she's taking her Dremel class on the road and would love to be scheduled by your group. I highly recommend the class if you have a chance to attend.
The main categories of bits, according to Dremel, include the following:

1. Carving & Engraving
2. Sanding
3. Cutting
4. Grinding & Sharpening
5. Cleaning & Polishing

These categories are pretty consistent among other manufacturers of rotary tool accessories, so you can often find alternatives if you shop around. Carving & Engraving I used two different types of bits that fall into the carving & engraving category - diamond bits and high speed cutters.
Diamond Dremel bits
Diamond bits can be used with the following materials:

• Aluminum
• Bookboard
• Ceramic tile
• Glass
• Mirror
• Steel

Dremel high speed cutters
High speed cutters can be used with the following materials:

• Bookboard
• Linoleum
• Polymer clay
• Wood

Sanding Sanding involves two different parts - the drum and the sanding band. Sanding bands come in different grits, just like sheets of sandpaper.
Dremel sanding bands and drum
To use the sanding band, you simply slide it over the drum. Replace it when it wears out. Easy peasy.
Sanding bits can be used with the following materials:

• Aluminum
• Bookboard
• Plexiglass
• Polymer clay
• Wood

Cutting There are different types of cutting wheels for different materials.
Abrasive cutting wheels
Abrasive cutting wheels can be used with the following materials:

• Bookboard
• Plexiglass
• Wood

Fiberglass cutting wheel
Fiberglass cutting wheels can be used with the following materials:

• Aluminum
• Bookboard
• Ceramic tile
• Wood

To use a cutting wheel, you have to attach it a mandrel.
Dremel mandrel
Unscrew the tiny screw on top of the mandrel and remove one of the washers.
Slide the wheel onto the screw, then add the second washer. Attach the screw to the mandrel base and tighten.
Replace the wheel it when it wears out.
Grinding & Sharpening Grinding and sharpening stones are made of two basic materials: silicon carbide (green bits) and aluminum oxide (brown, orange, pink, or grey bits). You may have noticed that some of my grinding stones are oddly-shaped. This is because the stones wear out with use. You can reshape your grinding stones using a dressing stone.
Orange grinding stones
Orange stones can be used with the following materials:

• Ceramic tile
• Glass
• Mirror
• Steel

Blue/green & pink grinding stones
Blue/green and pink stones can be used with the following materials:

• Aluminum
• Ceramic tile
• Glass
• Mirror

Cleaning & Polishing Felt polishing wheels and cones are used in combination with polishing compound.
Polishing felts and mandrel
Polishing compound
To use a polishing felt, you have to attach it a mandrel (different from the cutting wheel mandrel). The felt has a tiny hole in the center of it - you screw the mandrel into the hole to attach it.
Felt polishing wheels and cones can be used with the following materials:

• Aluminum
• Ceramic tile
• Glass
• Mirror

On the Blue Maxx Chainsaw you can remove the carburetor and using a dremel with the small metal cutting wheel cut slots in the top of both jet screws ( L & H ) ( you will cut into the edge of the carburetor at the sides of the screws but it won't hurt anything. This will allow you to adjust them with a small flat head screwdriver. Then as many have said turn them in all the the way ( clockwise or to the right ) then back them off 1 1/2 turns. Then start the saw allow it to warm up and adjust the L screw for highest rpm at idle backing it off once it starts to run slower. Then do the same with the H screw running the saw at full throttle ( best to remove the bar and chain for this ). There is a rubber plug above the jet screws and by removing it you have access to the idle speed screw ( I did this on one saw, they srnt ms a 2nd saw after the shop messed with the original saw ). I now have to running saws that start relatively easy and run good and I can easily adjust the mixture screws when needed. I first did this, without removing the carburetor, on a weedeater that wouldn't run without half choke that now runs great and al day long.

If the screw head is stripped you will have to replace the knob and screw. Try holding the screw head and turn the handle is its a single knob. Otherwise use a hacksaw or dremel tool and cut about 3/8" away from the door surface, once you cut through you can use a small punch to push the screw through the door then pliers to pull it out. Alternately you could use a dremel tool and carefully grind the head of the screw down until you can brake the head off and pull the handle and screw out through the front.

f the screw head is stripped you will have to replace the knob and screw. Try holding the screw head and turn the handle is its a single knob. Otherwise use a hacksaw or dremel tool and cut about 3/8" away from the door surface, once you cut through you can use a small punch to push the screw through the door then pliers to pull it out. Alternately you could use a dremel tool and carefully grind the head of the screw down until you can brake the head off and pull the handle and screw out through the front.

I don't know what the numbers are, but the little abrasive cut-off wheels are held on with a mandrel type bit and a screw. Make sure you get the right size wheel and the right size mandrel, they make a couple different sizes, you can't fit the small wheels on the bigger screw. Anyway, I use my cut-off wheels all the time, usually to get stubborn screws out by cutting a slot in the head and turning it out with a flat blade screw driver. The wheels will cut anything, most people scoff when I say that, but it is true, they will cut anything.

The only solution I have found is to use a dremel type tool with metal cut-off wheels and cut the heads off of the screws to remove the burners. Once you have the burners removed, you will need to punch or drill out the bottom of the screw and put in new screws to hold the burners in place.

there is a straight shaft with a screw that threads into it that you would use for the cut wheel, don't over tighten it or you will crack it before using it.

You need a # 402 bit. This comes with a screw on top that detaches and goes through the hole in the cutting wheel (very small hole). Then just re-attach it to the bit and you're in business. Depending on the particular cut-off wheel you're using, the wheel can be extremely fragile. Even though it will cut steel, it is brittle. ALWAYS wear safety glasses when using a cut-off wheel particularly, they will inevitably shatter and go flying!
Probably best to go to a local hobby store, buy a few bits for $10, and pick the owners brain about the tool.

Do not use the threaded bit. You need a mandrel that has a tiny screw on the top. Take the screw out and thread it onto the cutting wheel and then screw it back on. My book says its mandrel #401.