Need to replace our jet but seems to be glued

This is probably close enough. You planned maintenance will also need a full carburettor strip down and clean. count the turns on jetting screws. Screw IN and count the turns to a gentle stop say 2 1/4 turns, then remove and clean with carburettor spray. The float valve in the bottom is likely to be glued shut.

https://www.baldor.com/Shared/manuals/2412-404.pdf

https://www.google.com/search?q=%22Powerchief%22+6500+CL+manual

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Take a look at the videos. It pops out

https://www.google.com/search?q=remove+the+fiberglass+side+panel+from+a+jetted+tub+rectangle+tub+with+fiber+glass+side

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there is a kevlar heat shield tube that can be used around electrical wires Probable available from an electrical equipment whole sales shop. Next fibreglass matting cut into strips and wrapped around the wire will do the trick. Just do not use epoxy as this is what makes fibre glass inflammable. Best bet is to have an accredited auto electrician make up a battery cable with a length so that the cable can be positioned away from any heat source.

Most of the time the jets in these carburetors are pressed in or glued. removal is difficult and not recommended. Getting the new jets back in and sealed would be nearly impossible.

Hello,

The problem is you are running lean. The first thing you should do is dump the fuel out of the tank,lines and carburetor. The second thing you need to do is remove the float bowl and clean it out. The problem is either water holding the float in the up position, or stale fuel is got it "glued" in the up positon. You need to correct whichever it is. The needle jet needs to move freely to allow fuel flow. This may require you to remove the carb. to clean it correctly. The middle part, the part that sticks down through the float, has the main jet in it. This will also need to be removed and checked to make sure it is open. One of these reasons is the cause of your problems.

Hope this was usefull to you, Matt

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/matt_8dbc24bf722649ac

You need access from the back of the jet. What you do is cut out the old one and install a new one. I suggest that you use a marine grade, under the waterline sealer. Silicone will not work. The under the waterline sealers take several days to cure, but they work. The hoses get glued with a PVC type of sealer that you get from a hot tum place, along with the jets needed.

You will need to remoe the drain hose and get teh link out, the drain pump/valve must be clogged or filled with dirt. use a goo d jet of water to remove clogging, try to power and see if this works . or else replace the unit.

There are a few different drain styles available. If you pop the drain cover off of the shower, does it look like a brass ring pressed up against a rubber boot? If this is the case, that brass ring will have to unscrew first. if this is not the case, There will be a large nut on the underside of your shower that holds the drain in place. Often times, a helper is very beneficial to hold the top part of the drain assembly in place while the other person unscrews the bottom portion. You may say a few choice words during the process, as sometimes an older drain becomes hard to unscrew. There is a special tool for removing the drain, and it is relatively inexpensive. If the pvc is glued into the drain, a section of pipe will have to be cut away to get the tool around the strainer nut. Plan on replacing the trap and strainer. If it is pvc, you will need a coupling, trap, plumbers putty to go around the strainer where it meets the base of the shower, a new strainer, and possibly a couple street 45's and a couple of 45's. Don't forget the glue, primer, and a short piece of pipe.

It does seem to indicate that you might have a partially blocked pilot jet or even possibly the air mixture screw turned in too much.This screw is located at the back of the carb(air filter side)and should be about 1½ turns out from stop.

Since the bike is 7 years old ,I would suggest you check the carb anyway.These carbs are very simple,and once out and after removing the 4 float bowl screws you will quite easily see the the pilot jet.

It is just forward of the main jet,and can be removed with a small flat screwdriver.If this is blocked then this is your problem.If clear then I suggest you remove all jets ,clean entire carb with carb cleaner /thinners and blow with compressed air all channels.

If you need more help ,please get back to me.

Please leave fair comment if you think I have helped you.

Thyank you

I see this was asked years ago but never answered. So for the future questions about this,
The doors and roof panels on 4th Gen F-bodies are SMC (Sheet Molded Compound), a form of fiberglass. The skin is glued on. To remove a glued on panel use either a heat gun or a plumbers torch (Map Gas). Heating around the skin where the panel is bonded to the inner structure will break down the adhesive. Be careful not to burn the SMC away in a fire (heat guns are safer than the torch). Where you start, insert a putty knife to lightly pry the skin off as you heat the area.