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Do u drain it 1st before u switch it off? If u just keep switching it off and on again there will be more water than usual which will probably slow the spinning down.
Drain the machine
Remove or open the vent at the bottom of the machine
Get a towel and a large baking tray or something similar
Place the towel underneath the vent and the tray to catch the water
Turn the filter slowly until u see water coming out, when the water slows down pull the filter out.
Clean out whatever is in there and replace the filter
It's possible that the tub didn't drain properly in the allotted time and the remaining water is slowing your drum from coming to maximum extraction speed.
The spin cycle is reliant on the drain pump removing water from the tub.
It is a common ocurrance of objects (ie hair pins, pegs, coins etc) to be mistakenly washed through the cycle. Washing machines will often flush these objects down through the drain pump, and get caught in the little propeller of the pump.
So, it is imperative that you inspect the drain pump first and remove any obstruction within the drain pump cavity.
Turn machine power OFF at the wall and remove the power plug.
i) place an empty bucket on the floor ii) lower the drain HOSE into the bucket - gravity will cause the water to drain into the bucket. Empty the bucket. Perform this procedure until all water has been emptied from the bowl. iii) move the washing machine out from the wall, to gain access to the drain pump (usually a large screwcap). Place a large towel on the floor, under the screwcap - this will catch any remaining water that escapes. iv) unscrew the drain pump cap and withdraw the cap. This cap may also contain a filter, so remove any lint/objects from this filter. v) with the pump cap/filter removed, look inside the pump cavity and remove any visible obstruction from the impellar (little propeller thing). Then, with your finger, turn the little impellar in both directions - if you feel a 'rubber band' like resistance, then the drain pump may be ok at this point. vi) remove all wet clothes from the machine bowl. vii) re-assemble the drain pump cap/filter and secure it in place. Install drain hose back into your laundry tub. Plug machine back into power. viii) fill the bucket with water and pour water back into your machine's bowl. Repeat with a 2nd bucket of water. ix) manually select and operate SPIN cycle on the machine. Observe if drain pump functions correctly and empties water from the bowl. If yes, then you have resolved the problem.
If your pump has been cleared of all obtstructions but your machine will still not empty water from the bowl, then a full diagnostic will need to be carried out by an authorised service agent to determine which component has failed.
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
(no promises but try this!)
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motorfilter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
Probably a blocked empty pump filter. Spin won't kick in until all the water is evacuated. If there is a little left, the machine will do the slow turn cycle that it does just before spin starts but not start the spin cycle because of the water in the drum.
You need to locate the filter and clean it. That should fix your problem. Once this is done, remember to keep the filter clean every few months.
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
If the spinning is at the right fast speed I would suspect that there is still some water left in the drum.
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete guidance notes for checking both the drain motorfilter and the drain motor ;-0)
-------------------------------------
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play!
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT! It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning!
If the spinning appears to be slow or intermittent, it could be the control board OR the main motor. Motors will show weaknesses when commanded to spin.
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete guidance notes for checking both the drain motorfilter and the drain motor ;-0)
-------------------------------------
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play!
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT! It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning!
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete guidance notes for checking both the drain motorfilter and the drain motor ;-0)
-------------------------------------
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play!
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT! It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning!
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.
Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.
Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.
Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.
This is an interesting problem. How long does it have to sit before you can get it to spin? Can you let it go through the cycle and then immediatly put it into spin and it work? This machine will not spin until the pressure switch senses the water has drained. So you could have a slow drain, a clogged pressure hose, or faulty switch. A clogged hose or faulty switch would usually cause it to fill with more water than normal also. A slow drain is most likely, check the drain hose when it is draining and see if it is putting out a strong flow or just slowly draining. I think you will find it to be slow. This will cause it to take up all or most of the spin time trying to drain the water. If it is slow draining, check the pump for a sock or some obstruction. If the drain is good, remove the top and remove the rubber hose from the pressure hose and blow through it. You should be able to blow through it easily. A restricted pressure hose will cause the machine to think it has water in it after it has drained.
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