OVEN USED WITH BROKEN DOOR SEAL, OVEN HEAT HAS GONE INTO OVEN BODY AND MELTED SOME WIRING, STOPPED WORKING NOW. Have bought and fitted a new door seal, what do I do next, can I buy individual wiring parts to replace chard ones? Thankyou

Were you using the dreaded 'Self Cleaning' cycle?

Number one tip, never ever use the self cleaning cycle. The oven locks, wiring and sometimes even the hob wiring can't cope with 1,200'F.

Call for service.

4 Reasons to Stop Using Self-Cleaning Oven Feature ...

https://fixappliances.ca > 4-reasons-stop-using-self-clea...

A self-cleaning oven is a feature on many modern ovens that burns off cooking spills and splatters with an extremely high temperature (932 F° or 500 C°) to ...
‎How Self Cleaning Ovens Work · ‎Major Parts Damage · ‎Family Safety

Why You should Never Run A Self Clean Oven Cycle & A ...

https://www.generalappliancesvc.com > why-you-shoul...

Jan 29, 2020 - With an inside temperature exceeding 500° C, and a flash point (the temperature at which items can self-combust without an ignition source) ...

https://www.espares.co.uk/advice/careandmaintenance/how-to-fit-universal-oven-door-seals

check three thermal fuses.

I had similar issue with my electric stove as well. The model of the stove is the same as the one that us mentioned above on the beginning of the this discussion. The issue I had on my stove was that the display shows time and no error code how ever the oven top light indicator comes on but the oven won't heat up. Here are the steps I took to fix the issue: First I unplugged the stove and used a multimeter to verify that it has 240Volt coming. It checked good for 240v. Second, I opened up the terminal on the stove where the plug connects, there I discovered one of the hot leg has melted and broken thus only 120v getting to the stove. I repaired the broken wire and verified 240v coming in the stove and stove was fixed for good. I further investigated what caused the wire to melt and broken, my finding was exposed hot wire shorted to the stove body (ground). Hope this helps. Thanks for reading

This tutorial will show you how to check your Smeg element and how to replace your Smeg cooker element.
Here are the 3 main faults to look for in your oven or cooker that is not heating

1. Your oven will not work until the clock/timer has been re-set after replacing an oven element or tripping the electrical supply. Consult your Smeg manual.
2. If your Oven is not getting hot or heating up it could be a faulty element, if the fan in the oven is running and the thermostat light is on, this will lead us to believe that the element has gone faulty. With grills the thermostat light should come on there should be heat, if not then this could be the grill element or the thermostat.
3. When you turn the oven on, the household electrical supply trips on the Rcd (this is the earth trip in the fuse board sometimes called the breaker tripping) your fan oven element has gone to earth and needs replacing.

If this helped you why not get me a beer? Paul is from the Naturally he would appreciate beer How to Repair Home...

It will be the oven element that has failed, a new one wiil need to be fitted.

It is located at the rear of the oven compartment behind a removeable cover.

I hope this helps.

SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE BROKEN WIRES BETWEEN THE LEFT FRONT DOOR AND THE A PILLAR..OPEN DRIVER'S DOOR,YOU WILL SEE A RUBBER BOOT BETWEEN DOOR AND BODY..PEEL IT BACK FROM BODY OR DOOR AND LOOK FOR BROKEN/PARTIALLY BROKEN WIRING..THIS HAPPENS BECAUSE THE DRIVER'S DOOR IS USUALLY THE ONE USED THE MOST..YOU ARE BETTER OFF REMOVING DOOR PANEL AS WELL TO ACCESS WIRING END CONNECTOR SO YOU CAN SPLICE IN A NEW SECTION OF WIRE..USE THE SAME SIZE WIRE AND SOLDER/HEAT SHRINK CONNECTIONS..ALSO CONNECTOR HOUSING IN BODY WILL COME OUT OF BODY AND YOU CAN UNPLUG IT..TRY NOT TO HAVE ANY OF YOUR SPLICES IN BETWEEN DOOR AND BODY..WILL BREAK AGAIN..I HOPE THIS HELPS..I HAVE SEEN THIS PROBLEM BEFORE A FEW TIMES

If you take the hinges off, you can fit some washers between the hinges and the door to make it close it further. Probably not as good as new hinges, but cheaper. 2mm of washers will close a 5mm gap