Jbl gto 3501 amp

It is confusing with the 4 channels it gives you but you really only need to connect it to one or the other positive and negative terminals. The amps channel setup looks like this + - + - . You can connect to the first positive and negative, the second, or combine them. I had mine installed by a professional which is how I know. Also if you want to run your amp at 2 ohms then connect the subs voice coils in a parallel circuit which means that all positives are connected to each other and the same goes for the negatives. it should match the impedances of both sub and amp. Hope this helps!

I cannot understand the problem , do you need the diagrams

could be the sub wired incorrectly to the amp.i have had same problem and used same fix. everything has been workin fine ever since. check out this link an select the correct option for your set up an it will show you the sub to amp wiring
http://www.crutchfield.com/learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html

ok first off bbbman78 is wrong!!! second off that amp is not a 2 channel amp!!!! i have the exact same set up as u do. an i was having the same issue. i discovered that the subs were not wired to the amp correct because the amp is a class D mono amp. and it does have 2 sets of terminals to wire subs to, but it is actually a 1 channel amp! ok if u have the 2 ohm dvc (dual voice coil) wire them like in this linkhttp://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2DVC_2-ohm_mono.jpg
if u have the 4 ohm dvc wire them like in this linkhttp://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2DVC_4-ohm_mono.jpg
once u wire them correctly.....crank it up and enjoy!!

You will not be able to get the full power from the amp without ruining your sub. The amp puts out full power into a 2 ohm load so option -A- is to just run one coil off the sub and it will absolutely pound -until you roast the coil.Then you can use the other coil and roast that one too. But since you do not want to roast anything-first thing to do is take it to the store and trade it in for a dual 4 ohm sub-wire the coils in parallel and there's your 2 ohm load to achieve max power from the amp. Problem there is that you will have WAY too much power for the sub to handle and you'll blow it anyways (in time).Best thing you can do is get an identical sub(dual 2-ohm) wire the coils in series which will make them 4 ohms per sub then parallel the subs to get back down to 2 ohms overall-you get max power from the amp and hopefully enough speaker to handle it.Hope that helps.

If the amp is 1200 watts at 2 ohm stable you will want to set up the speakers as parrallel and bridge the amp. That means conncect the speakers with + to + and - to -. Look at the amp connections. Usually thereare connects that look like this:
+ -
+ - + -

If yours look like this use the diagram on top. You will use the + for the left ouput on the amp to the right - on the amp. This will allow you to use all the power from the amp. Be sure to lower the gain as to not pop the speakers or amp.

Hello saini_jatt_2, On the JBL3501 700 watt monoblock, you have adjustments for low pass and a setting for boost marked DBO, allowing you to select and boost the frequencies sent to the subs. If your amp is not the 3501, but a different JBL amp, the settings may be different. Set the LP to either the white dot (about 100Hz) or slightly below to about 80Hz. Set the HP to about midscale or slightly higher. Set the boost to wherever the bass sounds best. One other setting that will affect bass volume is the "input level" or gain control. It should have been properly set by your installer, but you can "tweak" it for best performance. Turning it up increases the sensitivity and matches it with the output from your head unit. Too high will cause distortion. Too low will result in less bass. So you want to set it just to the point that you begin to hear the distortion and then back it off slightly until the distortion disappears. Hope this helps.

Hello roets81,

Check the voltage at the amp. It's possible that the voltage is either too high (above 16V) or too low (below 8.5V). Also make sure that the amp case is not grounded. If these check out OK, the most likely cause is that the amp itself is defective and requires service.

Hope this helps.

Keep in mind the input current to the amp is not continuous. Yes, the fuses on the 3501 are rated at 2x30A, but that means that at any one time, if the peak current goes above 60A, (theoretically) a fuse should blow. But in reality, the amp will draw much less current than that under normal operation. Even by adding the 300/4 to the mix, in my opinion, you will be ok.

it seems rather redundant to bridge a mono amp. Unless the instruction manual states otherwise, i would assume that one speaker output is identical to the other (ran in parallel, like an A or B speaker, not like Left or Right), and you would present the amp with a two ohm load by wiring one speaker to each output. Bridging it may or may not work, but, again, it just seems redundant.