Getting Power everywhere is not cord. I have

Are y sure you're getting power th the vacuum . Check the wall out let if you have power coming out of the wall check across the switch with an ohm meter with vacuum unplugged of course for safety . With power cord unplugged use ohm meter again & check from white wire on the switch to all the black wires one at a time flip the switch on & off . meter shows ohms switch is ok. If no ohm replace the switch I wouldn't jump across the switch. Also check for ay loose wires not making a connection..

Without knowing the model, I can only give you a general procedure to follow if you have a meter with volt / ohms reading. Unplug the cord and check it for continuity with your ohm-meter so you are certain that power is getting to the unit's plug. Use your ohm meter to check for continuity with resistance between the kettle's plugs.

Unplug power cord & pull the back off and use ohm meter to
to check the heating element also check if the element is ground to the heater box. Check the thermal fuse, the cutout fuse & thermostat on the heater box. Check the operating thermostat and any others you see. Last check the centrifucal switch on the motor the heating wire goes through it. To check this switch connect ohm meter to terminals it will show open unless motor is running so take a screwdriver & lift up on switch button then it should show continuity. Hope this helps

seethis procedure and fix it. God bless you

1. • 1 Connect the test leads to your DMM. Insert the black lead in the black "common" socket and push the red lead in the red socket labeled "volts, ohms, milliamperes." Set the function switch on your DMM to the "ohms" function.
     
   • 2 Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the space heater's back cover and disconnect the power cord from the switch and heating element
     
   • 3 Check the power cord for a broken wire. Touch one test probe to first one blade, then the other blade on the plug and then touch the other probe to the other end of the power cord. If the wire is working, there should be an indication of 0.00 to 0.5 ohms between each blade on the plug and a different end of the power cord. If the meter indicates "O.L." on one or both sides of the cord, the wire is defective. Most often, the wire will be broken right at the molded plug or inside the plug. The easiest way to fix this problem is to replace the cord set.
     
   • 4 Check between the two sides of the power cord for a 0.00 to 0.5 ohms reading indicating a short between the two sides of the line cord. If the heater tripped a circuit breaker, there is a short circuit somewhere in the heater wiring. Shorts in a power cord usually occur inside the molded plug. The short could be inside the cord set, if it has been pinched or cut. Fix by replacing the cord set.
     
   • 5 Check the thermostatic switch by placing one test probe on each of the switch terminals. Turn the switch slowly through its complete range. The DMM should indicate a continuous 0.00 to 0.5 ohms throughout the switch's full range of movement. An "O.L." indication here indicates a faulty switch, and you need to replace it. The reason that a functional switch could read 0.5 ohms and not 0.00 ohms is that some DMMs read their internal fuse's resistance.
     
   • 6 Check the heating element for an open circuit or short circuit. A typical radiant heating element will have a resistance of roughly 15 to 30 ohms. A burned out heating element will read "O.L." and need to be replaced. A reading significantly lower than 15 ohms indicates a shorted or partially shorted heating element, and it needs to be replaced.
     
   • 7 Reconnect the wires that you disconnected earlier and plug the heater in. Check the blower motor voltage if the heating element gets hot but the fan does not work. This is the only test that you will have to make with the heater plugged in, so use caution here.
     
   • 8 Set the DMM for "AC volts" and touch the test probes to the motor leads. A reading of 115 volts here indicates a defective fan motor, and you need to replace it.
     

Hi kendainty...
Sounds like an electrical problem...check all the wiring starting with the wall receptical to make sure power is getting to the element.
Check for power at the element using an ohm meter should read 100-120VAC.
Then unplug from the wall and remove the wires from the element and check the element using the ohm meter to see if there is continuity in the element. If the ohm meter buzzes or otherwise then the element is ok, and your problem is after the element and before the wall plug.
Once you locate and repair the connection, your smoker should work.
Please take time to rate me

First verify 220 volts to the range where the cord connects.
Second,unplug the range and remove the element again and using a volt/ohm meter set for ohms or continuity check the element. No reading is a bad element.
Third, if power is OK and the element reads continuity check for power in at the oven control in the control panel.
Set for Bake and check power Out of the oven control.
No power out is a bad element.
If the control is OK,remove the oven temperature sensor and with the meter check for 1100 ohms +or- 25 ohms.
If not correct,replace the temp sensor.

hello there:
Testing with an ohm meter checking on a dryer....
These are the places that pass voltage to the heater elements on an electric dryer. In order to check a dryer for no heat, here is a list of places to check. Remember to always unplug the appliance before starting testing with an ohm meter. Always remove wires from the part you are testing with an ohm meter ( write down what goes where first before removing any wires ).
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuity across a good element 8-12 OHMS

Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.
Q - My gas dryer will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating:
- glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor.
A page for checking gas dryers is here.
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuityacross a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ).
But darn it, I don't have a Ohm Meter....
To check the thermal fuse  - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.To check the thermal cut-out  - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the thermostats for continuity -  - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.

How to take apart information for GE style dryers
How to take apart information for Inglis - Whirlpool - Kenmore dryers
How to take apart information for Maytag dryers
How to take apart information for Frigidaire and White Westinghouse
How to take apart information for Admiral, Norge, Magic Chef and Crosley

Check the element with an OHM meter.

This is not rocket science and an OHM meter can be used for many things. Any good appliance parts place, even Wal-Mart will have a meter which can be set to test AC/DC, OHM's etc. Set the meter on OHM setting and touch the two leads on the meter together, you will see the meter arm move. This is simply a test for continuity. Now take the element out of the Range, touch one lead to one end of the element and the other lead to the other end. If you do not get any reading then there is a break inside the element and must be replaced. If you get any reading at all then the element is good and the eye switch must be replaced.

There are some parts which require knowing how many OHM's but in this case you just need to check for a break inside the element (continuity).

You can check an extension cord this way or set it on the volts setting and check batteries. all kinds of fun.

you have not said anuthing about ohming out the start knob,and have you checked both legs on the power cord are getting 120 volts each?let me know what you find-mike