Location of Thermal Circuit Breaker, actually two

Hi Friend, I am happy to assist you!

Typically error code F10 indicates that your Frigidaire range has detected an issue with the runaway temperature (overheating). Let's attempt reprogramming your range by either unplugging it or flipping the household circuit breaker off. It is best to wait roughly ten minutes and then turn on your range. Usually this will clear most false error codes. If issue persists, at this moment I would suggest contacting a professional to proceed further. Most likely the RTD Probe (Resistance Temperature Detector) or the EOC (electronic oven control) will need replacing. Hope this helps! - Z

Hello Dom - Being that you have narrow down some possibilities, here are a few simple troubleshooting tips that may help you get to the root cause:

1. Make sure the dryer is plugged into outlet, and plugged in correctly.

2. Is house fuse blown or circuit breaker tripped? Replace fuse or re-set circuit breaker.
3. Make sure that electrical circuit is not overloaded and correct. The dryer must be on a circuit by itself. Overloaded circuits can damage the dryer and possibly cause damage to home. I would recommend reaching out to a Licensed Electrician check to make sure it is on a circuit by itself.

4. Thermal limiter tripped or an internal problem with the dryer. A thermal limiter automatically turns off the motor (electric dryers only) in the unlikely event of an overheated situation.A service technician must replace the thermal limiter after correcting the fault.

If these assessment measures prove to be ineffective, I would strongly suggest contacting an authorized service technician who would be better able to assist you in the diagnosis and repair of your unit. You can often locate an experienced technician in your area by going to the manufacturer website.

Youtube has much information in video

Hi - Typically error code F30 for Frigidaire range indicates an issue with the sensor probe or the wiring harness between sensor probe and EOC. Try resetting the unit and see if the error code will clear. You can either unplug the unit or flip the household circuit breaker off. Wait approximately ten minutes and turn on the range. If issue continues, contact a professional to move forward accurately

Hi ana piedranayari05, this is AP! Thank you for your post

I understand you are having trouble with your Frigidaire electric dryer not turning on. Make sure the dryer is still plugged into the outlet, and plugged in correctly. Also check to see if the house fuse is blown or circuit breaker tripped? If so, Replace fuse or re-set circuit breaker. Check to make sure that electrical circuit is not overloaded and correct. The dryer must be on a circuit by itself. Overloaded circuits can damage the dryer and possibly cause damage to home. Have a licensed electrician check to make sure it is on a circuit by itself. Additionally, the thermal limiter could have tripped or possibly an internal problem with the dryer. A thermal limiter automatically turns off the motor in the unlikely event of an overheated situation. A service technician must replace the thermal limiter after correcting the fault. If you have check the plug, fuses, and circuit breaker and still no power I would recommend contacting a local technician to diagnose and service your electric dryer.

THAT CODES MEANS EITHER THE PROBE SENSOR OR THE ELECTRONIC CONTROL IS BAD. UNPLUG. WITH WIRING DIAGRAM AND OHM METER, TEST THE TWO WIRES GOING TO PROBE. IF YOU GET ABOUT 1100 OHMS, YOU HAVE A BAD CONTROL. IF YOU GET 0 OR INFINITY, IT'S THE SENSOR OR THE WIRES BETWEEN THE PROBE AND THE CONTROL

[email protected] OR 714-334-1998. I CAN WALK YOU THROUGH IF NEEDED

OK - here's a little tip that might save you a bundle of cash:

The Frigidaire glasstop slide-in Range model # PLES389ECH has a habit of triggering a F30 error, which according to the NEW table of error codes (http://www.applianceaid.com/faultcodes3.html), implies an issue with either the Electronic Oven Control (EOC) panel (located beneath the Control Panel Assembly), or the temperature probe itself (located within the main oven cavity, back wall, upper-left corner). However, a quick glance at page 12 of the Factory Parts Catalog's wiring diagram (http://www.youserguide.com/wiki/Frigidaire_PLES389ECH or http://www.serviexcell.com.mx/manuales/PLES389ECH.pdf) shows two thermal breakers wired into the circuit as well.

To check the probe, disconnect power and either pull the probe from the cavity of the oven (two screws, and a disconnect plug) and measure resistance across the probe, or take the Control Panel Assembly off the front (remove 4 cooktop control knobs and 4 teflon mounting nuts) and measure resistance at the EOC P5 quick-disconnect plug (violet wires - see wiring diagram)...it should read approx. 1091 Ohms at room temperature per ApplianceAid's table. If you measured at the probe, an open (infinite resistance) or short (zero resistance) indicates a bad probe. Replace for about $40.00 (per http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5160618).

If you get an open or short by measuring at the P5 plug, the issue is either the probe OR the thermal breakers. Also called a Thermal Cutout Switch (item #141 on p.8 of your parts catalog), one of these buggers is located near the electronic control module for the right rear stovetop burner (#54A, follow the violet wires from EOC to locate it) - since you already have the Control Panel Assembly pulled, reach over and push the button on the breaker to reset it. This may have just solved your error code! For FREE!! If it doesn't reset, you may have to replace the breaker itself (around $16.00).

However, if you measured at the plug and get the appropriate resistance for the entire circuit it's likely that your breakers, probe and wiring harness (always check for disconnected wiring) are fine, and that the problem lies with the EOC itself. This pricey gizmo runs a little over $200. My sympathies.

Good luck! Feel free to mail me any contributions should you save yourself a $350+ service call. :)

the dryer circuit will be clearly labelled in the house box, there will be two fuses or a single two phase breaker for this circuit.
there are not usually electrical fuses as such IN a dryer, there are thermostats to regulate temperature, and a thermal fuse, that cuts the power totally to the heat element if air temperature rises above its melt point.
the element itself has a limited life span and may fuse/burnout.
to test electrical components.
Unplug dryer
open case, by removing the front,
described elsewhere in any of the 'changing belt' threads
locate the thermal cutouts, on the fan housing or exhaust duct and disconnect one wire to isolate it from the rest of the circuit, test with ohmmmeter, no-continuity replace, continuity reconnect wire
thermal cuttouts look like these ~1inch accross.
locate the heat element and disconnect one wire to isolate it from the rest of the circuit, test with ohmmmeter, no-continuity replace, continuity reconnect wire

while you have the dryer open de-lint the fan and exhaust ducting, most common cause of element or themal fuse failure is air flow restriction
you get a lot of lint out of the fan even when proper cleaning is done, and clean out the ducting right to the exterior walls
this was the rather extreme result of not cleaning the duct (brainiac placed a wire across the terminals of the burnt out thermal fuse)

F30 code fault means the temperature probe has an open circuit. It could be the probe or control board but probably not. There is two thermal overload switches in this circuit which may be tripped. One is located in back of range and the other is located in the front near right burner knob. Find these two switches and mash red button on them to see if it clicks and resets. Dana

If you ohm the sensor probe, and it ohms good, check your schematics, you'll find a Thermal Circuit Breaker, actually two of them, in series with the probe. This is a resettable switch, and im not 100% sure what trips it, although im thinking its most likely a thermal overload switch, but i've noticed it can be tripped by accidentally applying to much pressure to the area the switch is located. The switch is located in the right area of the control panel, right behind the rear burner knob. You might look at this as it fixed our stove just fine without paying to replace the probe. You might check into what causes this however, as mine was tripped by pressue, not a fault.