How do I wire in a combination single pole switch/outlet from an existing power source to an existing light and have the single pole switch control the light and constant power to the outlet?

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-combination-switch-outlet.html

Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Which combo device do you have??
Include model number so expert can look at the specific manual.

Is this a switch-outlet combo with indicator LED?
Or is this a switch-pilot-light combo that controls separate outlet.

What does the switch control?
What device did you replace?
Did you replace a single-pole switch, or a 3-way switch, or an outlet??
Add a comment including as much detail as possible.

Copy following link for specific wiring diagrams
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#combo

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Open following link for single-pole and 3-way installations:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GE-15312-timer.html

If you have two hot wires inside the same box, that is unusual unless the power source is 240volt.
However it is possible that box has two hot wires and each controls a different light.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Open following link to see illustration:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Single-pole-switches-in-4-gang.jpg

Each residential electric box has 1 hot wire. This wire should be black.
Hot wire carries power from the breaker box.
Use tester and find hot wire.

Each device in box connects to the black hot wire using short jumper wires.

Outlets: Hot wire connects to brass colored screw.
Single-pole switches: Hot wire connects to either brass-colored screw.

Neutral wires are usually white, and are twisted together.
Neutral wires connect directly to silver screw on each outlet.

Wire going to lights connects to other brass screw on each switch.

Wiring is not fully described: Location of hot wire and neutral wire from breaker box are unknown.
If Hot wire arrives in ceiling box first, the switch box will not have white neutral wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut. Neutrals will be in ceiling box.

What is known: You are replacing single pole switch attached to one 14-2 wire going to light.
You are replacing light with a fan-light and replacing switch with a 3-pole TM8111 switch.
You have replaced 14-2 wire with 12-3 wire.

TM8111 wiring shows following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/TM8111-switch-wiring-500.jpg
Fan pull-chain wiring shows following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Fan-motor-1-344.jpg
Assume neutrals in ceiling box.
Assume Hot wire in ceiling box: Connect 12-3 black wire to black Hot wire. Connect 12-3 white wire to black wire on light. Connect 12-3 red to red wire on fan.
White neutral from fan and white neutral form light connect to other white neutral wires and covered with wire nut.
Wiring at switch:
Black Hot wire from ceiling box connects to A COM terminal.
White wire to ceiling light connects to A SP2
Red wire to fan connects to A SP1

Hi,
White wires under the silver screw...
The black wire under the black screw...
and the red wire under the brass screw...

If it does not work right then switch the red and black wires...

heatman101

Unless I misunderstand you, you just need to get a single switch, and a duplex outlet with a matching plate. Your hardest part will be to decide the color of the devices and plate (rectangular, double-D holes, etc. I'd suggest, that for "preserving domestic tranquility" you hire you mate (if any) as consultant on these matters.
(Wire it as it is now; that is if the switch controls the outlet the wiring should still be easy to follow.
DO turn off the power first!)

If the product is as pictured, (two single pole switches in the space of a single switch), then it probably has 4 terminal screws (in addition to the ground). Look closely at the terminals on one side of the switch. If two terminal screws are brass colored and two are silver colored, look on the brass colored side. There is probably a strip of metal that connects the two terminals together - this is what is keeping your light "on". You need to move one of these wires to the other side of the switch. I assume the other switch operates OK and you only have 3 wires (besides the ground). On the other hand, if you have a total of 4 wires, then one of the wires is probably for powering something else (an outlet, or even another switch that is not supposed to be controlled by this switch). You will probably find that other device is currently being controlled by this switch. You will have to swap two wires, but without more info I can't tell you which ones.
If you found this helpful, please vote.

ok, i think what you mean is a 3-way switch- meaning two different switches that control one light and a single (pole) switch that only controls one light. you can't do that with the above switch. You need a combination 3-way and single pole switch.

run 14-2 wire to power switches, then run one 14-3 wire and one 14-2 up to fixture..you will have an extra neutral but its okay... just tie all nuetrals together....this gives you the needed 3 hot wires!