Only 2ch sound on sony strde898

well believe it or not. a wood block is not a bad idea. ive done it myself. it is non conductive, so you won't short anything out. to answer your question, a circuit board is layed out in several levels. not just what you see on the surface. so your problem could be internal on that particular board . So when you bend it, it then makes the connection it is suppose to. Weather it be a ground or it completes a circuit. You can use the board method , or contact the mfr and purchase a new board. Which if you choose to do that, know that handling and installing that board , you want to make sure you release any static electricity from your body before doing so. You don't want to short out the board before you get a chance to see it work.

Here you go bud:

http://www.kb.sony.com/selfservice/microsites/search.do?cmd=displayKC&externalId=C215474&fes=true&mdl=STRDB1070

Just copy and paste this link into the web address box and press enter or return.

if your simply switching the settings to allow these signals to be sent as your requesting it should work i cant understand why it would drop the volume unless you have the wrong settings selected within the optical setting making your amp unable to read the signal most disc's play their previews in 2ch so thats always a possibility ok hope this helps and your gonna need to check what kind of signals your receiver can process ok good luck

I classify this as a sleeper of the car audio industry. it is powerful, well built, cheap, feature laden, sounds great! very comparible to the big names such as kicker, alpine, fosgate an all the rest. i would prefer this amp over any of them any day of the week! here are the specs for it incase u didn't have them.

• Max. Power Output: 800W x2Ch.= 1600W @2 Ohms
• Power Output:
  • 330W x 2Ch.(@2 Ohms) Less Than 0.5% THD
  • 220W x 2Ch.(@4 Ohms) Less Than 0.3%THD
  • Bridge: 660W x 1 Ch.(@4 Ohms) Less Than 0.5% THD
• All Measurements Done @ 14.4V DC, 1 KHz Input Signal.
• Dual VU-Meter
• Dual Fan Cooling System.
• LPF (Low Pass Filter) Variable 30Hz-250Hz
• HPF(High Pass Filter) Variable 50Hz-l KHz.
• Slope Adjustable 12-24dB.
• Variable Bass Frequency(30Hz-120Hz).
• Variable 0-18db Bass Boost.
• High & Low Adjustable Level Input.
• Dual LED Indicated Power Status (Protect/Power).
• Mosfet DC-DC Switching Power Supply.
• Built-in Protection Against Short Circuit, High Temperature & Overload.
• Auto Power On/Oft By Remote (+12V).
• Dimensions(mm) : 300(W) x 57(H) x 697(L)

Well here is the stats

2000watts 2-channel
Output Powers
• 500W (RMS) x 2CH (2 Ohm) 500rms each channel
• 600 (RMS) x 2CH (4 Ohm) 300rms each channel
• 1000W (RMS) x 1CH (4 Ohm)

If your talking about price it runs about...

$100-130

sounds like you have a bad ground conection, or your electrical system is bad

the amp will not turn on if any of those fuses on the side of the amp is blown

make sure you have positive to battery
ground to car body (or negative on battery)
and remote wire to the back of the head unit

Yes there's a way to fix that. The best way to fix that is to bring it to your supplier (if it has warranty and in terms and conditions) or to a certified repairman in your area.

Hi, might be several reasons: 1) to loud, the amp might be auto protecting; 2) one of your 4 speakers has a developed an intermittent problem, either open or coil grounding to magnet; 3) the pigtail (wire from terminal to coil) might be occasionally touching the metal body of the speaker (just carefully bend/move the pigtail out of the way); 4)impedance mismatch (speaker ohms too low for the amp) or too many speakers connected (check/replace or lessen); or 5) it is possible that the amp is not getting enough power from the battery/electrical system or a loose ground somewhere (although a bit unlikely). Hope this be of some help. Please let us know how things turn up. Cheers.

Most in-dash stereos have a blue wire in the harness which is used as a "wake up" signal for external amps. Did you connect this? Does it have any voltage on it when the stereo is on?