Philips HTS3450 System Logo
Posted on Sep 21, 2009
Answered by a Fixya Expert

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How to solder capacitors?

My phillips HTS3450 will not put out any sound. I looked up the problem and I bought the two capacitors to change them. They must be solder in. I don't know how to do that. Is there another way I can switch them out?

2 Answers

John Long Shipton

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  • Expert 63 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 21, 2009
 John Long Shipton
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Soldering capacitors is not difficult. First you will need access to the rear of the printed circuit board which has all the solder connections. I don't know which type of caps you are talking about but you must be sure to make a note of which way round the existing capacitors are seated on the board. Large value caps usually have two solder tags at one end or wires coming out of each end. If there are two solder tags at one end then the plastic sleeve on the can will usually have a series of dashes down one side - this indicates that the negative connection tag is on that side. Alternatively you may have a series of plus signs to indicate the positive connection. Caps with a wire at each end of the can will also be marked with plus and minus signs to show which way round to connect. You will need to make sure you replace the caps the correct way round.

For a soldering iron about 25 watts is usually fine for this type of work.

Suggest you also use 'solder wick' to remove the existing solder when you take out the duff caps. This is used by placing the solder wick over the joint and applying the soldering iron to the solder wick. After a short interval the solder melts underneath the wick. It is drawn into the wick and leaves a clean board. You may have to clip off any solder laden wick if there is much solder to remove.

With all the solder removed you should be able to lift off the old caps and replace with the new ones. For good joints make sure that there is no corrosion on the tags or wires. Failure to do this will result in what is known as a dry joint. It looks like a good soldered joint but will not conduct electricity.

When soldering in the new caps make sure you use resin cored electronic component solder. Other types have a high melting point and will result in bad joints. Apply the solder between the iron and the connection you wish to make. As soon as it flows and makes the joint remove the iron. You may have to apply solder on both sides if it is a tag connection.

Try not to heat up any semiconductor devices with hot solder. The usually require lower wattage irons to prevent overheating.

Just a hope - when replacing caps with a wire at each end you can sometimes clip off the old wires close to the can and use the wire left in the board to connect the new component.

Happy soldering.

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  • Philips Master 924 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 22, 2014
Audio Service Clinic
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What makes you think that the capacitors are bad? Everyone thinks that capacitors are the route of all evils, but that's like saying that all people are bad. The capacitor issue was a short term issue from over a decade ago. If these are electrolytic capacitors, most of the bad ones pierce the very top, and leak electrolytic fluid. If you see this, they are certainly bad. If not, you should take one lead out of the circuiit, and measure them.

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Related Questions:

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1answer

I have a Phillips hits 3450 surround sound system. I have no sound at all from day speakers

Usually the case that the subwoofer in the two capacitors are burning 16v 480nF
please check avsystemparts.com
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I have a philips HTS3450/37 replaced the caps got ride of the buzzing but still don't have sound on sub center channel or left front any ideas

Hi Gerhodes. The answer above is correct with one exception. The reason this has been found to be such a problem with the Phillips HTS 3450/37 model is due to the fact that parts positions numbered "C987" and "C989" are not powerful enough . If you take the "Black backplate" off (the one that the otherside actually shows outside when asembled. Right about where the plate was removed between the "Metal Wall" as it resembles and the "Main Power Conductors" which are covered by the metal top plate and wrapped in yellow or some other color tape. So, as you see that area, at the back are 4 capacitors. Two are small and neither of those two are the same size as each other or the other two in that area. There are two capacitors of those 4 that are set in a diagonal position from each other, They are the same size as each other. Those are the ones that you want to replace. They 470uF/25v. What creates the issue is that these capacitors are not large enough to handle the power needed. So, when you replace it you want the equivalent of a 470uF/35v to supply enough power. Once you replace the weaker ones with the more powerful capacitors ensuring to solder on the opposite side of plate (green side), you should be good to go.
Good Luck,
cJager
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No sound after power surge

This solution was posted in another users topic about the same issue and it works.

The circuit boards inside the subwoofer contain the capacitors that need to be fixed.

You need to purchase the 470uf 35v replacement capacitors qty(2), which you can do at Radio Shack-catalog #272-1030 $1.33

You also need a soldering kit, Radio Shack also sells these for 7 bucks (i recommend the 5 piece kit).

After you get the goods; remove the back plate of the subwoofer and disconnect the power wires, unscrew the circuit boards and look at the pic below to find the 2 capacitors we are replacing:

0ccab8c.jpg

Check youtube for quick and simple instructional videos for removing old soldering on circuit boards and applying new solder.

*IMPORTANT* Make sure the black stripe line on the capacitor matches up with the shaded portion of the circle where you place the capacitor.

Once you are done reconnect everything and do a test to check if it is successful, it should be; it worked for me and i never used a solder stick in my life.
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Hts3450 Sound Gone

907f475.jpg
Here is a picture of the Power Supply PCB. The location of the 470uF 25v capacitors is marked by the red circles. To locate these the two circuit boards need to be separated. Pictured are the replacement 35v capacitors. Thank you to WheatService for discovering the solution. I hope this helps. I went to Radio Shack and got them to do the soldering for me. It cost a total of like $15. The sound works like normal now.
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you are probably actually looking for two 16v capacitors, not 25v. They are either black or brown near the huge copper coil magnet capacitor at the end of the board. A thin, tall metal heatsink sits between it and the copper coil capacitor. Philips is notorious for their completely worthless stereo systems, so they probably knew about the problem with the capacitors and put in 25v for later versions of the hts3450.
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I am having the same problem mine made the clicking sounds and now won't make any sound. I took it apart and located the capacitors. How do you change them/is it difficult? ([email protected]) I...

You have to have soldering experience, first. You will also need some type of de-soldering device, be it a solder ****** or solder wick to remove the caps. Make note of the polarity before removing. Then it is just a matter of popping the new ones in (they are slightly larger than the originals so they might not go all the way down flush with the PCB) and soldering them back in. Make sure you do not make any solder shorts or your system will be toast!
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Philips HTS3450 sound problem

As I found somewhere on the internet; there are two 470uF/25V capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio Shack and buy two Catalog #: 272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close to the long flat aluminum heatsink. Make sure you match the polarity properly when replacing. Your unit will be as good as new and will proibably last forever now.
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There are two 470uF/25V capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio Shack and buy two Catalog #272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close to the long flat aluminum heatsink. As far as installation instructions go; you have to have some soldering experience, first. You will also need some type of de-soldering device, be it a solder ****** or solder wick to remove the caps. Make note of the polarity before removing. Then it is just a matter of popping the new ones in (they are slightly larger than the originals so they might not go all the way down flush with the PCB) and soldering them back in. Make sure you do not make any solder shorts or your system will be toast! Your unit will be as good as new and will probably last forever now.
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There are two 470uF/25V capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio Shack and buy two Catalog #272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close to the long flat aluminum heatsink. As far as installation instructions go; you have to have some soldering experience, first. You will also need some type of de-soldering device, be it a solder ****** or solder wick to remove the caps. Make note of the polarity before removing. Then it is just a matter of popping the new ones in (they are slightly larger than the originals so they might not go all the way down flush with the PCB) and soldering them back in. Make sure you do not make any solder shorts or your system will be toast! Your unit will be as good as new and will probably last forever now.
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There are two 470uF/25V capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio Shack and buy two Catalog #272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close to the long flat aluminum heatsink. As far as installation instructions go; you have to have some soldering experience, first. You will also need some type of de-soldering device, be it a solder ****** or solder wick to remove the caps. Make note of the polarity before removing. Then it is just a matter of popping the new ones in (they are slightly larger than the originals so they might not go all the way down flush with the PCB) and soldering them back in. Make sure you do not make any solder shorts or your system will be toast! Your unit will be as good as new and will probably last forever now.
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