Before you start diagnosing your problem, ascertain that you have made a proper and positive heat selection on the control panel, then proceed.
Below is a link courtesy of www.repairclinic.com, which shows disassembly/diagnostic procedures.
http://www.repairclinic.com/Dryer-Electric-Whirlpool-Style-Version-2-Appliance-Diagram
A volt-ohm meter (VOM) will be helpful in diagnosing most issues.
http://www.ehow.com/how_2076998_use-voltohm-meter-safely.html?ref=fuel&utm_source=yahoo&utm_medium=ssp&utm_campaign=yssp_art
Purchase a VOM
http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?ref=HHMA&Nav=vhtj06
Below are the next 4 common failure modes to check.
If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:
Power from the house
Heating element
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Heating element
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
Wiring
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
If all the above checks allright, then proceed to the next steps below.
Thermal overload/cutoff thermostat.
http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-REX4635EQ2-%
3d%3di2651&PartID=2651
Cycling thermostat.
http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-REX4635EQ2-%3d%3di2893&PartID=2893
Motor Centrifugal Switch.
http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-REX4635EQ2-%3d%3di2584&PartID=2584
Heating Element Connection Wire.
http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-REX4635EQ2-%3d%3di3140&PartID=3140
Timer.
http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-REX4635EQ2-%3d%3di548371&PartID=548371
SOURCE: no heat
There is a cheap way you can fix this which I have been doing you years!! Yes i said years... First of all the heater elements are expensive so what i did is opened up the back and found the heater element and un screwed it. you see a bunch of springs and you will see that there is a break in the spring. all you need to di is overlap the spring and replace back in. Now replace the back shield and connect back the hose. and plug in. Now each time i do this it last for about a month as long as you don't over fill the dryer. NOW THE DANGEROUS PART! I have had to do this so many times that i no longer put the shield back on so i can easily get back to the element and patch it which does leave me open to lint getting into the coils and burning up..... This has never happened be aware of this. THE BEST THING I EVER DID FOR THIS DRYER IS TAKE A BLOWER AND BLOW FAST AIR INTO THE HOLE IN THE WALL AND THIS HELPED SO MUCH!! THERE WAS A LINT STORM IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD BUT THIS HELPED A LOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
*** UNPLUG THE DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING *** PLEASE
remember it would be bad business to make the element last forever but you can extend the life for years doing this!!
1,456 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×