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One wire must go to Neutral or the black wire where it comes off the main power lead and connects to the unit wiring, The Live wire should be picked up from the thermostat terminal that powers the freezer compressor. In this way the fan will only run when the compressor is operating. If the fan motor is a large one , more than 200 watts, you will need to run it through a relay to prevent overloading the thermostat contacts.
We regularly repair microwave control panel assemblies, usually for
$39.95, but if your keypad is bad, it will run more.
Feel
free to contact me directly (and
please include your full model number from the tag in or on the
unit) for a free estimate and free tips & do-it-yourself
advice.
Your said your battery is rated for 85 amps / hour. This means 1 hour at 85 amps, 42 hours at 2 amps, 85 hours at 1 amp or any number of hours in between determined by 85 divided by the number of amps of the load connected. The microwave uses 600 watts. Since we can't reliably determine amps in an AC circuit - I can get close using the DC calculation. I'll assume 120 Volts at 600 watts for the microwave. Watts = Volts multiplied by Amps, so the microwave uses about 5 amps (120 x 5 = 600). HOWEVER, this is not an accurate way to determine AC amps when voltage and watts are known. I'll bet the microwave has the actual amount of amps (along with the model, voltage, wattage etc.) on a label on the back, side or inside the door. This is the information that is accurate. Use the amp rating provided on the name plate to determine how long the batter will last. Assume 8.5 amps is the value provided on the name plate.. 85 amp hour (85 AH) battery would supply an 8.5 amp (8.5 A) load for 10 hours because: 85 AH divided by 8.5 A = 10 H. The quality of the battery, and the losses contributed by the inverter will reduce the actual amount of time that the battery could supply the microwave.
Hi.
Put a cup of water in the unit (if you haven't already). This will tell you if it's actually 'cooknig' or not....... Probably not..... A bad door switch can actually turn on/off lights and fans just from building vibration...... If it does heat the water, the magnetron has most likely been damaged from running empty (no load) and it's usually more cost effective to replace the unit.
If your micro looks like it is running and you get no heat than it is your magnitron tube. This is the most expensive part of the micro, if it is in warranty GE will fix it, if not it will be cheaper to replace it.
Look at the rating sticker on the oven and use the AC power rating as your guide. The cooking power of the oven is not important, but the power it needs from the AC supply is. Voltage times current is the supply power needed (watts), and you want an oven that will draw less than the inverter's continuous rating, less any power being used by other appliances.
For instance, a microwave rated for 120 volts AC at 10 amps needs 1200 watts. Your inverter would be OK with this as long as other devices aren't using more than another 1000 watts. You can't use the inverter's peak rating. That's only for brief bursts, like when the microwave first kicks on and draws some extra current.
Any mid-power (600 watts or so) oven should be OK.
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